diemai

@ turkeylegs1246 Great , this is in about what I tried to describe on page 1 of this thread , you put it to practice , but much more simple . This is the only way to go on a short term without a lead casting mold . I imagine that eye bending to be finacky , did similar on weight-forward spinners before . To make it a bit easier , you might push some snugly fitting metal tubing(f. e. leader sleeve)over the two rear wire shafts and sharply kink one shaft forward over the rim of tube , snip it off and wrap the eye onto the second shaft . Maybe also secure the lip with two crosswise wire pins through sinker and lip , but I guess , that just epoxying all together would be a lot more simple ? greetz:yay: , diemai

Nice action , even trembling on descend ! great lure:yes: , diemai

greetz , diemai

@ RiverMan Nice idea for a new thread you've had , would be fun indeed....., her'e some adds : - When at your work you always keep pencil and paper handy to sketch down new lure ideas or designs any free minute ! - When laying in your bed at night the last thought before sleep comes is which work must be done tomorrow on your actual lure(s) . - When constantly checking out any common items of wood , plastic or metal , that you come across , if they'd be suitable for making lures out of them . But it's not dangerous.......! greetz , diemai

@ Milia B I'd 100% second to that:yes: , so many different and new things to try , still even after 15 years of tinkering ! Guess , that you are already hopelessly hooked like so many others in here;) ! keep on carvin' , diemai

@ strictly esox Welcome to Moore's Lures sell their biggest screweyes at 2$ per 10 pieces . ALL of their eyes are stainless steel , no brass ! When purchasing 500 or more , they offer 15% rebate , check catalog entry page for that . Right now they have their winter business vacation , back in service as from April . greetz , diemai

@ Mr.J. Thanks again about that tip , might even find it cheaper at those fleamarkets that my wife is always dragging me to on weekends:wink: . greetz:yay: , diemai

@ Mr.J. Also a very cool idea , might try that one as well:yes: ! But if my wife should need it one day................can't put it back in the kitchen drawer sprayed in colors:huh: !!! Better go buy one:? , greetz , diemai

@ northsea Absolutely cool design and great action , but for a reproduction you'd need tools and skills for working with metal . You'd need to build an accurate aluminium mold for the blade connected to the rear wireform to fit in and then bonded by the molten lead , that you pour in . As blades you could probably use willowleaf spinnerblades with one tip cut off ? Or you cut your own blades from sheet metal with shears , 0,5 mm stainless steel , 1,0 mm brass and 1,5 mm copper cut quite easy , with only 0,5 mm thicker it could get to an nasty effort ! One brief idea : Cut blade in about the shape of a shovel blade , triangular as shown , but with a slender extention at its rear . There should be two or three holes in line in that extension to guide the wire form through to somehow sit reasonably rigid . Take an teardrop shaped inline sinker , extend the center hole at its fatter side maybe halfway down for the blades extension to fit in . Also cut a slot centered and aligned to the hole for the base of the blade to fit in. You can lead the wire all way through the hole to bend the attachement hook on its rear and epoxy all together . Its just a brief idea from afar , it stands and falls with the required size of that leadhead , if too tiny , there won't be enough room for this construction . Also it is PITA to cut lead with a metal saw , you need to clamb it somehow , and it will squeeze together ! Maybe put a nail or similar into the center hole to keep it open ? That leadhead , if it should work out that way , would surely get to look very ugly due to all toolmarks on it , but this is the only way , that I can think of on a short term , at low cost and without the need for a mold . good luck , diemai

@ KcDano Bought such on a supermarket special sale the other day , haven't used it since for lure shaping.............now I know , what's it good for:) ! thanks a lot , diemai

@ JBlaze John , thanks a lot about sharing the proceedial of your swimbaits , I always find such posts very interesting ! Just two days ago I have rigged a jointed topwater lure with rather unusual wire harnesses , also I forgot to bend hookhangers onto them out of excitement solving my problems with it , and had to do them again:huh: ! greetz , Dieter

I started out many years ago with folded clevises , these have obviously been of minor quality , since I have found , that the circular force of bigger blades had deformed them after a while , bending its two wire holes close together . I quickly switched over to stirrup clevises then , had to mailorder them from the USA , since these were not availablle over here these days . greetz , diemai

@ Pikester I have a few "Hi-Lo's" in my tackle boxes , they've got some promotion over here during the past 2 or 3 years , but apart from some new models(made in Taiwan nowadays) , I also have some older ones as well still made in Sweden , that a workmate found on the attic of an old house , that he had moved in . ABU obviously took over the design from an early "Heddon" crankbait , only added its patented adjustable lip . This lip can be set in 6 different position(if my memory serve

@ Milia B It is definately worse losing a homemade lure rather than a commercial one , at least to me ! But the absolutely worst case is losing a homemade , that you have spent hours of work on AND that has proven to be an excellent producer ! good luck:yay: , diemai

@ Milia B Most likely lureblanks won't float up in a proper position , that's normal , since there is no hardware attached nor balance weights placed . Different densities of wood within the blank should not matter , unless on spindle shaped , small unweighted lures . These you can test by letting them roll on a plane , even surface , or even in water ! They'd roll out with the heavier portion at bottom , so this would be their belly side . I won't put an unprotected blank in water to test , since water would enter and it may take up to a few days time(depending on how long it's exposed to water)to dry thoroughly. Also it causes the wood grain to rise up , thus some more sanding required . I test my lures the first time with lips and and hardware temporary attached and topcoated with 2 layers of acrylic clear paint . Then I also can determine about amount and location of balance weights(I stick them on with plastic cable insulation tape) , after this I disassemble the hardware again , embed the weights at proper location , buff the temporary topcoat , prime , paint and finally topcoat . good luck , diemai