diemai

@ mouldybits Really depends on how strong your lathe is made , especially how rigid the center shaft transmitting the turning motion and it's bearings are . A chuck of this size I estimate to weigh about 20 to 25 pounds or even more , so I guess , that it might be just at the limits ? Worst thing is , that it might work out well at first , but shorten the lifetime of above mentioned machine parts rapidly . good luck:yay: , diemai

@ pikehunter1775 Before taking any drilling action on the lure , I'd suggest you to try sticking so-called "suspendots" or "suspendstrips" to the outside of the lure . Think , that these are manufactured by the "Storm" company , but not quite sure about it ! You might as well build similar at home , simply take some roofing lead sheet(clean off any corrosion layers , dirt or paint) , thoroughly flatten it out and stick some double sided carpet tape onto it . This way you'd be able to cut required piece sizes off with scissors , peel off the second backing of the tape and stick it onto your lure . If you have found out about a satisfying lure action this way , you might still try drilling holes for placing equal amount of shot inside the lure(if the outer look with that stuck-on lead disturbs you) . These home made weights are usually heavier than the "suspendots" since the lead sheet is thicker, approx. 1 millimetre . But I guess , that it would be hard to keep the shot at proper location inside the lure body . good luck , diemai

Sorry , double post !

@ dramone Ok , I have browsed through it a bit , that stuff weights 0,7 grams per cubic centimetre(2 to 4 mm thickness) , the thicker boards only 0,5 grams per cubic centimetre , which would be half as much as water , so theoratically a lurebody without hardware would stick out of the water with half of its volume ! That is more buoyant like many woods , that I have used ! To glue two PVC sheets together to put a wire form inbetween , I could use that special PVC glue , that they offer on that site as well , I guess ? Thinking to get sheets of 10 mm , so glued together I'd have 20 mm thickness of lurebody , which would fairly be enough for some tapering and rounding off the blank . Heck , it's 2 to 2 1/2 hours by car to get to Berlin from my place , way too long just for some material , need to have it mailed ! greetz , diemai

@ dramone Just checked the English version of that site , so I guess , that it must be the "Forex" sheets , these are called "PVC" there ? Heck , I am just too unexperienced with all this kinda stuff:o ! And also I'd rather prefer to see and feel the material in a shop rather than ordering for it through the web . Well , gonna check the German version now........! Thanks for your advice and that link , anyway;) ! greetz , diemai

@ Basseducer Yeah , that's what I meant , not so familiar with some terms:o ! Sorry , if I'd have caused confusion ! Thanks for putting it right:) ! greetz , diemai

@ paulsvolks75 Don't know much about soldering such small parts , but did some early 2008 , wanted to apply some solder onto homemade brass spoons , just for weighting reasons . I have used a gas-operated torch , which is real hot ! Well , I had 4 or 5 spoons , I had obtained some solder wire for copper tubing , just because it was thicker and would provide more weight ! But similar thing happened ! Though I didn't intend to bond two parts , that solder did not adhere well to the previously cleaned brass , also didn't flow well , so after two spoons I took a break . Still had some different solder wire in my shop , a thinner , finer grade one , refered as radio solder with included flow media(sorry , don't know the exact English term for it) . This one worked a lot better , gave a smoothely flown surface after curing and adhered well , just not as bad as the other first solder . In a nutshell , maybe you should try a different kind of solder ? good luck , diemai

@ BobP This is the stuff , that I was refering to , just googled for it , this is a site of the BASF , a giant German chemical industry plant , English version . Obviously they have the trademark on the term "Styrodur" , certainly there would be also different manufacturers around . BASF Group: Plastics - Stryrodur: Benefit & Solutions There are different densities available(look at "products") , I guess , for luremaking the one with the highest model code number would be neccessary , because it is obviously the hardest ! greetz , diemai

@ mouldybits Just briefly checked the web , saw some on German Ebay as from 85

@ mouldybits Sometimes I see such on fleamarkets in Hamburg , sold by Polish vendors , guess , they most likely get this machinery stuff from Russia , not the best quality , though . But I doubt , that these guys would cross the Channel to sell their stuff in Great Britain , it's just too far , from here it's just 200 miles to Poland . And these are quite small , maybe 6" to 8" dia. , if my memory serves me right . In local tool marts they sell a few small hobby metal lathes as well , maybe try and ask in such shops to order for spare parts . Or try and google for it , there are second hand machine pages around ! Sorry , I don't even know the exact English term for it , in German it is called "Dreibackenfutter" or "Dreibacken-Futter" ! If I may ask , for which purpose do you need it and which size ? Or in other words , which diameters do you intend to chuck in ? Do you just want to put it on a workbench or assemble it into machinery ? But you must be aware , that these chucks provide a relatively high clambing pressure , so I guess , that on wooden workpieces they might leave some indents on the surface . good luck , diemai

@ booneangler So far all has been said before , just wanna tell you , that there are different styles of splitrings around , not all styles are available in all sizes , as far , as I am concerned . There are "standard" splitrings and "extra strong"(2X strong) . These are usually made out of tempered steel and chrome ,-or nickel plated and would certainly rust after a longer priod of time or when not drying sufficiently after use . And there are also stainless steel splitrings around , but size for size these are not quite as strong as their tempered steel counterparts . And then there are the 3X strong "Wolverine" splitrings , but as far , as I am concerned , these are not available in very small sizes , mainly used to rig musky lures . You can also find a splitring size chart in the catalog download of Welcome to Moore's Lures . good luck:yay: , diemai

@ 76gator Very tiny baits , not much room and buoancy left for weighting , anyway:( . But since your baits are obviously flat-sided , you surely oughta place a belly keel weight at their deepest part of belly , otherwise they might float up lop-sided . Also two props turning into same direction provide more centrifugal force than only one , probably causing the bait to lay on its side on retrieve . Because of this , I would go for counter-rotating props whenever possible . Just a few thoughts........! good luck , diemai

@ jrhopkins Your describtion and picture of internal wiring of your PVC baits is very interest

@ Rick S .......there really are better things.........! Happy New Year , everybody:yeah: ! greetz , diemai

May it be a good one for everyone around in here ! greetz:yay: , diemai

@ Swede Halfway between fading youth and wisdom of approaching maturity............. Wishing you a Happy Birthday and also a Happy New Year ! greetz:yay: , diemai