diemai

@ Curt -RI OK , Curt , ....thanks for rapid reply , gonna upload it during coming days , ......greetz , Dieter

Here is a question , Curt : Never put up any lure into the contest so far , wanted to wait until the deadline , which is now obviously coming closer , ...so that I could have the chance to complete a few more lures to chose from . Now I'm considering to post a homemade casting spoon as my contest entry(not so many people do make these) . Only not sure , into which category I would post it , .....I would say hardbaits , as it consists of some kinda metal blade , but does not sport a wire shaft nor frame.......do you agree ? Or you'd still say wirebaits ? Answer might get important , as it depends on it for me to possibly post even two entry lures within two different categories . Greetz , Dieter

One guy on a local forum over here used the small coins of the German Democratic Republic , which finally perished in 1990 . These were made from an aluminium alloy and suited the purpose very well , ........and , ....they did not cost a thing being just scrap in history . Greetz , Dieter

I'd do mine of 8mm dia. brass tubing like this : For smaller baits I'd use jig rattles of plastic , ..otherwise I'm with Mark , crosswise mounted rattle chambers are more effective than lengthwise ones . Not shown in the clip , ...prior to priming the lure blank I would fill up the rattle holes either with polyester putty(the kind used for cars)or a homemade putty consisting of epoxy glue thickened with fine sawdust . Greetz , diemai

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@ FrogAddict Great write-up of yours , .......welcome to the TackleUnderground A "Fishy" New Year , ...greetz , 61diemai PS : Here's one possibly helping about your toilet , ....would have to practise a bit , though !

Hi , folks , Just made this video this morning , ......thought that I would share it in here , too . This is how I like to pimp my plastic grub and shad lures(though I do not pour my own) , ...a jigspinner often gives them the edge over "ordinary" plastics on leadheads . Greetz , diemai

Very interesting thread to me , as English is not my first language . May not quite fit in here , but here's a little one from across the Great Pond , yet still related to a famous and great American actor , ......read about it in a local paper . Some years ago Mr. Morgan Freeman came over to a visit to Hamburg/northern Germany . He said , that immediately that he stepped on German ground , he became quite irritated , because many people around him seemed to call him by his surname , he was quite confused and always turned and looked around whether someone was talking to him . It took him a little while to find out , that people around were not calling him , but just greeting one another saying the German term "Morgen" , which is short for "Guten Morgen" , .......just like in America you'd use the short "morn" for "good morning" , .......the spoken German word sounds exactly the same like Mr. Freeman's surname . Greetz , diemai

Makes me kinda sad to read about this , since the TackleUnderground has ever been a forum bare of such rubbish , bad language and disrespectfulness amongst the members , .......this is what makes it such an enjoyable and special place to be on . I surely do not want these good customs in here to go down the drain , and I'm most certain not to be the only one thinking this way , .........shame on those responsible . Thanks a lot for taking care , Curt , ........happy holidays furthermore , ....greetz , Dieter

Years ago I've experimented making my own stick-on weights , .......I'd take a new and untarnished piece(maybe 2" X 5")of 1mm thick lead sheet , commonly used over here for house roofing , also available on local Ebay , and beat it absolutely flat and plane . Now I'd take double-sided carpet tape(this thing sticks like hell) , peel of the protective layer on one side and stick it onto my lead sheet piece flush and real firm . After I can use ordinary household scissors to cut out lead sheet pieces of desired shape and size , peel the second protective paper layer off the tape and stick the lead sheet piece onto my lure , .....my homemade "Suspendots" , so to speak , ...but generally heavier , as the lead sheet is thicker . Only drawback is , that you cannot remove them as easy anymore , might even damage your lure finish , removal from a Lexan lip should come easier , but would still be difficult , I guess . Greetz , diemai

@ darkman ...........after that visit you'd get back home as an PVC swimbait expert , ....I can promise you ! Greetz , Dieter

@ darkman Haha , ...6-8 inches still sounds large to me .....but everything's bigger in America(I'm in Germany) . As we are of the same age I fully understand your issues about casting big lures , got my bones sore , too ! For glidebaits of that size you may use maple , teak or meranti , ........not so sure about swimbaits , .....I might use abache wood , but obviously this stuff is not available in the US , we've had a discussion about it before in here . Better to make swimbaits out of PVC decking , anyway , since this way you would not have any issues regarding water sepage at the numerous joints or hinges . Maybe wait until Mark Poulson or another one of our timber gurus would hopefully chime in , ...they'd surely be able to tell you more , ...also , since I'm too far away . Greetz , Dieter

@ usmc1371 If you're concerned about a timely process , you've gotta go with resin cast lures , I guess , .....once you've got your mold and the mixing ratio of resin and micro balloons done , you can reproduce a particular lure model time and time again . But I guess , it would take some time and trial and error experiments to get there , ......I do not have any experience with it , since I like individual wood carving . To knock out timber lure blanks in larger amounts there's also the option of using a copy lathe(lure duplicator) but which must be homemade . Other options would be readily glued plastic blanks or lure kits . Greetz , diemai

Just found another one that may help : http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/15699-newbe-lure-builder-needs-direction/?hl=%2Bdifferent+%2Bwoods+%2Bfor+%2Bdifferent+%2Blures#entry118960 Maybe this answers your questions better , .......otherwise it's not that easy to tell on a distance , ......also depends on the size and body volume of your planned baits . The material buoancy must match the lure size , as things like neccessary ballast weight(to achieve the right action) and also the weight of lip , paint and hardware play their part , ......naturally a swimbait would come up with more harware compared to a glider . But also space to insert ballast may be limited on a swimbait , .......In a nutshell ,....... I would probably make same lure types of different sizes out of differently buoyant material . How large do you plan your lures ? Greetz , diemai

................we have a search function in here , .......you may utilize it as well , ......I came up with this thread from last year : http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/25503-woods/?hl=+different%20+woods%20+for%20+different%20+lures Some others around as well , though . Cheers , diemai

Only thing I've heard so far regarding such hollow plastic homemades is making baits out of old CDs(apart from readily made lure kits) . Haven't tried it for myself yet , .......guess , the baits could only be made in smaller sizes this way . Linked from a German site : http://www.jigfanatics.de/nuetzliches/koederbau/wobblerbau/cd.html Any particular reasons , why you do not want to go with timber , PVC decking or resin ? Greetz , diemai

@ muskiestalker51 Maybe these two videos might provide some help and input to you , ....in particular part two ! Part one : Part two : I figure out , that he must be using the angled nose plane(end grain) as a reference , .......quite finacky to keep holding the tapered lure blank exact 90° offset to the blade when pushing through to cut the lipslot . Probably try to screw two round 1/2" dowels vertically to the sliding fence(the one 90°offset to the blade) , one dowel should engage to the front part of the blank and one to the rear part , ......as far apart as possible to get the best functionality and accuracy . The two dowels serve to position the blank to the sawblade , ......the pressure of the holding hand holds the lureblank in place , ........by trial and error the sliding fence might probably have to be set at a little angle to get the position of the tapered blank at exactly 90° to the sawblade , .......if the sliding fence is not adjustable , one would have to try to switch an slightly angled wood block inbetween or even use dowels of different diameters matching the body tapers to get the blank absolutely right angled to the blade . Good luck , diemai

@ aydensdad82 Nope , ...it does not spoil , .....I'd even sometimes scrape the cured remainders off my glass jars and throw them back into the prop mix , ...they'd dissolve again in a breeze , .......and , ...as said above , ....when the laquer becomes too thick , ....just add some more acetone and stir up or shake , let airbubbles pop away before dipping . Good luck , diemai

@ mark poulson Mark , I've already made a couple of Aussie style deep divers(thru-wired or with pinned lips , though) , .......the big diving lips , often made from aluminium sheet , do their share to balance these lures not to turn over and blow out . The timber material must be buoyant enough to be able to carry the weight of these lips , naturally the lures would float up head down at rest . This way they'd dive down steep , but the casting performance might be rather poor , ......on my own versions I like to place belly weights into the rear to improve the casting performance , .......provided the lures would still remain sufficiently buoyant to bounce off obstacles properly . I have a few genuine Aussie timber lures as well , ........waiting for a bigger pike to strike them to see , whether they'd hold up , .....but I guess , they would, .......just remember to have seen a pull test on YouTube before . Greetz , Dieter

@ aydensdad82 I'm quite new to propionate as well , started out early this year , wrote down my experiences in here : http://www.lureandmore.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=9505 Slighly changed the process by now , ....won't dip with hardware glued in nowadays , .......glueing in hardware after approx. 8 dips, though some extra time goes for cleaning cured prop from lipslots , bellyslots and pilot holes again . Cheers , 61diemai

@ hazmail Thanks so much for sharing this link , Pete , ....very interesting indeed . What amazes me most is , that far most of these Aussie lures seem to get along without ANY added ballast , .........but also I'm wondering about the reliability of some models lacking pinned lips and just having glued in some cotter pin-like wireforms as hookhangers . Well ,.... I'm confident with twisted wire eyes or screw eyes , ......but , .....dunno , .....probably the particular target species of fish do not grow that strong , .....or , ......you must have some kind of secret super strong glue DownUnder , that the rest of the world has not heard of yet . Greetz , Dieter

Can't remember any details anymore , but years ago I've read in a local angling magazine , that different species would be attracted by different kind of sounds . If my memory serves me right , it was written , that northern pike would rather go for a dull and deep sound at a low frequency ,whereas European perch and zander(European walleye) would prefer a higher pitch and a faster frequency of sound ., ......don't have no bass over here ! But if rattling lures are extensively used in a certain swim , it might be of advantage to tie on "quiet" lures , as fish might be aware of the noisy bites and neglect them entirely , ........too many variables , ...as most common with fishing . greetz , diemai