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diemai

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Everything posted by diemai

  1. diemai

    the "Padjumper"

    A design from "The Book Of Lures" by Charles K. Fox , made these some five years ago of abachewood , exactly following the describtions in that book . These tiny bits are about 1 2/5" in length , in that book they are described to be able to be tossed over lily pads and then gently twitched in open gaps inbetween , to cause a fish-attracting commotion on the surface . In fact I have later found out , that due to the "V"-shaped cross-section the lure comes to lay on it's side on a pad leaf , thus the hook swinging downward and still snags on the rim of the leaf too often . No problem to tear it free on a thin braid , but the spot is wasted:( ! The one in black base color I have modified in terms of a small popper face , so that it generates some more noise !
  2. diemai

    the "Padjumper"

    A design from "The Book Of Lures" by Charles K. Fox , made these some five years ago of abachewood , exactly following the describtions in that book . These tiny bits are about 1 2/5" in length , in that book they are described to be able to be tossed over lily pads and then gently twitched in open gaps inbetween , to cause a fish-attracting commotion on the surface . In fact I have later found out , that due to the "V"-shaped cross-section the lure comes to lay on it's side on a pad leaf , thus the hook swinging downward and still snags on the rim of the leaf too often . No problem to tear it free on a thin braid , but the spot is wasted:( ! The one in black base color I have modified in terms of a small popper face , so that it generates some more noise !
  3. diemai

    the "Padjumper"

    A design from "The Book Of Lures" by Charles K. Fox , made these some five years ago of abachewood , exactly following the describtions in that book . These tiny bits are about 1 2/5" in length , in that book they are described to be able to be tossed over lily pads and then gently twitched in open gaps inbetween , to cause a fish-attracting commotion on the surface . In fact I have later found out , that due to the "V"-shaped cross-section the lure comes to lay on it's side on a pad leaf , thus the hook swinging downward and still snags on the rim of the leaf too often . No problem to tear it free on a thin braid , but the spot is wasted:( ! The one in black base color I have modified in terms of a small popper face , so that it generates some more noise !
  4. diemai

    The "PacMan"

    Here are some jerkbaits of my own design made some years ago from teakwood kitchen boards . Hence its wedge-cut-out mouth I have named this model "PacMan"(after the old computer game) . Lures are weighted at deepest part of belly to sink at desired rate with their backs in horizontal position . They are best fished with with long sweeps of rod , they would than feature a wider left/right wave pattern , causing strong vibrations in the rod , at the end of the sweep they would hang in a 90
  5. diemai

    The "PacMan"

    Here are some jerkbaits of my own design made some years ago from teakwood kitchen boards . Hence its wedge-cut-out mouth I have named this model "PacMan"(after the old computer game) . Lures are weighted at deepest part of belly to sink at desired rate with their backs in horizontal position . They are best fished with with long sweeps of rod , they would than feature a wider left/right wave pattern , causing strong vibrations in the rod , at the end of the sweep they would hang in a 90
  6. diemai

    The "PacMan"

    Here are some jerkbaits of my own design made some years ago from teakwood kitchen boards . Hence its wedge-cut-out mouth I have named this model "PacMan"(after the old computer game) . Lures are weighted at deepest part of belly to sink at desired rate with their backs in horizontal position . They are best fished with with long sweeps of rod , they would than feature a wider left/right wave pattern , causing strong vibrations in the rod , at the end of the sweep they would hang in a 90
  7. @ pizza Glad to have given you some input with my pics posted:) . Here are some different ones , though not homemade ,thought that they might still provide some more inspiration for you . I have used a squared paper sheet as background , so you can determine about the lure's sizes , each square is 5mm , so five squares almost make up for one inch . Pic 01 shows the smallest "Rapala Original" , the smallest "Nils Master Invincible"(rigged way too large hooks) , the smallest(?????) "Helin's Flatfish" , and an unknown German vintage lure(suppose from the 70's , from the German company "Cormoran" , since the term "corRmo" is molded into it). The latter two lures are of plastic , the first two of balsawood . Pic 02 shows a tiny one-hook lure , I suppose , that it is the smallest version of the "Salmo Hornet" , made by a Polish company . I believe that the one looking like a huge wasp is also made by "Salmo" , since the lip is just the same like on the "Hornet" The third crank is a Finnish homemade , I think . Got it from a Finnish friend . All lures are made of balsa , obviously(also foam possible , they are very light , definately no plastic !) . Pic 03 sports two "Rapala Fat Rap's"(I'm not quite sure about the model name) , smallest available , made of balsa , my own two tiny lures , and still a little smaller lure , made of plastic by the German company "Exori" . This one is a sinker , quite heavy for its size compared to a balsa lure . If you should need more pics of certain of these lures from different perspectives , just tell me , I'll post them here:wink: . Finally I'd like to make up a theory about the position of a single treble on such tiny lures : Like Vodkaman said , I am also convinced , that a tail-mounted hook would be of disadvantage , it would let the light lure swim tail-down at rest , thus minimizing the wobble(found this out on many other cranks , tailweight is not good for wobble , only for casting distance) . If your design is of light material(balsa) , and has a pronounced "big belly" shape , you might still have enough room for a balance weight in the belly , so you probably could still rig the hook on the very end of tail . If the lure is not that voluminous , it would always be better to rig the hook more towards the belly of it . The tiny "Salmo" lure still has its single treble on the tail end , because the weight and size of its lip counterbalances the weight of the hook , so the lure would probably till lay level(just theory , haven't used it yet) , with a small lip under the chin this might not work out . Well , these are just thoughts of mine , don't claim them to be proven true , but that's what discussions are all about:wink: ! Good luck and success , diemai
  8. diemai

    musky swimbait

    Wow , what a bait ! If not because of the hinges it can be mixed up with taxidermy work with its detailed head ! Great job , diemai
  9. You say it , Vodkaman , very interesting topwaters ! I suppose , that they skim over the surface , causing a wake . @ smartbassu , you have created an unique design , did you also but weights into the tail portion , so that the lures might maybe swim "walk-the-dog"-style ? Keep on carving , diemai
  10. diemai

    Yellow Perch

    Very nice lure , excellent job ! To me , it looks like kinda "transparent armour" , that has something three-dimensional underneath , great paint design !
  11. @ Vodkaman I hear your concerns about that kinked aluminium lip . I got this design from a Swedish book about crankbait making , that came out in German language a couple of years ago . The author Hans Nordin seems to be quite famous in Sweden , he even has his own TV shows about fishing over there . He stated in that book , that after some thousands of pike he never had failures with his lures made like that , and I really have the impression , that he knows , what he is talking about ! Nevertheless , I see point in your statement about getting snagged up , I just don't hope for it , but in one way you made me eager to find out , wether this construction would withstand this abuse as well:wink: !
  12. Here are some pics of two lures of the "Mann's" line(one a special edition of a German angling magazine) . These sport a loose line tie , only secured by a splitring . When I got the first one of these , I've first thought , that they forgot to glue in the tow eye , for I haven't seen such a rig before:huh: ! But it works fine , the lures always track true , I suppose , that the folks at "Mann's" must have used the most rigid SS wire , so that the eye won't deform under higher tension . I haven't tried to employ this rig on my homemades yet , for some reason I don't trust on it . Not in terms of its stability to hold a bigger fish , but I just think , that the lip angle and symmetry have to be extraordinary accurate for it to perform well , only a mold-made lure can provide these features for 100% ! Also considered about cutting the tow eye from sheet metal , maybe 1mm thick brass or SS sheet . It should be in a rough "T"-shape , but the edges of the two bars of that "T" have to be filed to a half-round shape where they engage into the bottom of the groove at underside of lip . This is essential for proper function , so that the eye could swing left/right without binding , just like it does on those "Mann's" wire eyelets . Just thought , this might be of interrest here:wink: ! Greetz , diemai
  13. @ Vodkaman You are right to say , that the kink in the aluminium lip of my lure is a weak point , and it would certainly have the tendency of straightening out under tension . As I wrote , I expected the lure to be out of tune , too , but this did not happen . I thing , that the rod , with it's "springy "features , feathers down a lot of the pull strength of a fish , so not the full force of it has to be managed by the lures hardware and lips . I have some American musky videos , I noticed , that the guys shown there , just crank in even the biggest fish , they use quite strong , rigid and stiffish rods and a thick line . OK , I haven't ever fished for musky before , but it seems to me , that over here in Europe we employ lighter tackle even for the biggest pike , and we also don't crank in the fish like in the video , would not be possible with the lighter rods and line , anyway . So we have to play the fish for quite a while , to get it tired and weak , so that we can land it . Because of this playing not so much tension would be put onto the lure , that's what I mean to tell ! For this American way the lures have to be stronger made , I see to that ! A friend of a friend recently caught a 5 feet 4" catfish(silure) in Spain on one of my lures made the same way , like the one pictured below(but with 2mm thick aluminium lip) , no problems occured with the lips , the lure was not even thru-wired , but rigged with sort of cotter pins as hookhangers . Greetz , diemai
  14. It is a beautiful , natural material , I wouldn't paint it , only apply a tough , glossy topcoat ! BTW : many years ago , at the beginning of my luremaking carreer , I once tested a clearcoated(to prevent lure to soak water prior to final painting) teakwood lure in a canal , pulled it right along the bank , to see how it would swim . Suddenly a nice perch inhaled the crank , I could clearly view this , it is not always the color , but the action:wink: ! Greetings , diemai
  15. @ jamie Don't be too disappointed ! If your Mouse-Bait can fool a small bass , it would surely fool a big musky one day as well , just hold on:wink: ! Greetz , diemai
  16. @ Tacklejunky Here are the smallest crankbaits , that I've ever made , about 12 years ago or so , at the beginning of my luremaking carreer . The two tiny ones are 31mm(without tow eye) in length , the larger one is 42mm(25,4mm equals 1") made them those days of a kind of light tropical wood , but still they don't float up . The larger lure has a long-shanked hook run through a slot in its body , also glued in some thin , flexible wire to render the crank weedless , just wanted to try this those days , had absolutely no idea about luremaking back then ! Painted them those days with model making enamels by brushing . Such small lures don't cast well at all , to overcome this problem , in Germany we utilize some special casting weights named "Sbirulino"(they are of Italian origin) , widely available over here and most likely used in so-called "Put-And-Take" trout ponds . These weights can be obtained in various sink rates , also floating and some even to be filled with water , they require the use of a 12 feet minimum sensitive spinning rod , because the leader behind the weight must be at least 4 1/2 to 6 feet long , not to spook the fish . With a shorter rod the casting would be headache ! With the "Sbirulino" you can fish any small lures , that are too light to cast them far out , preferably small cranks and in-line spinners , but also small plastics or even wet flies, many use them as well with worms , maggots and trout paste . Greetz , diemai
  17. @ Tacklejunky Congrats for that big bass , very nice fish , indeed:)! I like your idea about tuning that lure with a second eye . @benton B and @ BobP , I made some detail pics of a lure , that I already posted into the gallery . They show , how I rig the tow eye onto metal lips on my crankbaits . In this case the eye is made of 1,5mm dia. SS welding wire , the lip is of 1,5mm aluminium(25,4mm equals 1") . On that lure I caught my personal best pike so far some years ago , it scratched 47" . After having boated that fish after a hard 12min(approx.) fight , I really expected the bait to have gotten out of tune , so I made a few test casts , to my surprise it tracked true as right from the start , also the fit of eye was as before;)! To fix those tow eyes , I would drill two holes through the bill , exactly of wire diameter , take a piece of wire and grind a sharp point on either end(helps a lot to insert into holes) . Then I bend it into "U"-shape , the two shanks should have slightly different lengths(also makes it easier to insert). Now I enter the longer shank into one hole , since the hole is of same dia. as wire , I need to gently hammer the shank through the lip , for this operation I would lay the lip flush onto the two clamps of a slightly opened vise . Then I'd also enter the second shank and carefully hammer onto the "U"-bend eye to put the eyelet into proper fit location . This way I have achieved the possibly tightest fit without glue ! To secure eye I now fix the eye tightly into the vise(shanks upward) , lip flush against top of vise and bend the shanks sideward as shown . Then cut off and hammer the tag ends as flush as possible against bottom side of lip . I guess , with smaller lures and plastic lips one has to use thinner wire , maybe 1,0mm dia. , also there would be the danger of cracking up the lip , when employing previously described method , but when the wire is rigid enough , I don't think , that it would be neccessary to guide tag ends back through the lip . In fact this would probably hardly be possible with a rigid sort of wire . Greetz , diemai
  18. diemai

    Sorta like Larry's...

    Very nice and accurate work , I always admire such well painted lures !
  19. @ Boskabouter The video isn't that bad , also not the action of your plug . I like it ! I noticed , how the visible color of your unpainted lure changed , as it dug down in the coffee-stained water , but still reflecting the sunlight , it looked kinda impressive to me ! How about just putting on some decal eyes and clear coating it:teef:? good success,diemai
  20. diemai

    Spring Walleye Twitch

    Very natural look , definately it would stir something up , if not on coming Thursday , but later for sure . Looks too good for musky to pass by !
  21. @ Tacklejunky Yeah , now as you say it , guess I've seen such mesh before on TV in a documentary film about building up Germany's biggest model railroad , located in an old warehouse in the harbor of Hamburg . Next time , I drop by a model shop , I'm gonna check for it , and thank you very much about the hints on preparing it for spraying . Greetz , diemai
  22. Strongly thru-wired as they come , they would even catch the biggest of all pike ! Nice lures , one by one well done ! tight lines , diemai
  23. @ Tacklejunky Man , you're pretty fast with new lures , and all of your work is so well explained and pictured , I like it:)! It's a pretty little thing , that you have created here , well done ! But what I like most is the idea about employing metal mesh for the scales . I looked at the pic , thinking "where are the pegs , heck , did he somehow glue it.....!" , the next second I browsed through the text , and "BINGO" ! I find it great to think about such , little unusual(to me)things , though I don't know , for which purpose such metal mesh is used for(apart from spraying lures:)) . To me it is just a very smart idea , hats off ! Good success , diemai
  24. Turned out this one out of pinewood some two years ago without any sketch or exact plan about its final look , just wanted a lure like the old "Pikie". It turned out 4 2/3" in length(without lip) , the body diameter is only little less than 4/5" . Due to its relatively slim shape and the little oversized aluminium lip it wiggles and rolls a bit more than the original "Pikie"(got one of plastic) , it floats up slightly head-down and travels 5 to 6 feet deep . Fished my arms sore with it yesterday(amongst other lures) , but couldn't stir up anything , since the sun burned down as hot , so that my arms and face is rather looking like "boiled lobster" color now . And some three weeks ago it was still freezing at night......!
  25. Turned out this one out of pinewood some two years ago without any sketch or exact plan about its final look , just wanted a lure like the old "Pikie". It turned out 4 2/3" in length(without lip) , the body diameter is only little less than 4/5" . Due to its relatively slim shape and the little oversized aluminium lip it wiggles and rolls a bit more than the original "Pikie"(got one of plastic) , it floats up slightly head-down and travels 5 to 6 feet deep . Fished my arms sore with it yesterday(amongst other lures) , but couldn't stir up anything , since the sun burned down as hot , so that my arms and face is rather looking like "boiled lobster" color now . And some three weeks ago it was still freezing at night......!
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