diemai
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Everything posted by diemai
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Here is a design , that I started out with about 10 years ago , the one lure with the red "bucktail"(made of a piece of cord) is the last one , that I still have of those first ones . These were very elaborate to build with their closure plugs of lead and aluminium on either end , also are filled with steelballs , therefore have to be waterproof . These turned out way too heavy , they swam tail-down a bit , but nevertheless I caught pike and perch with them . So in winter 2006/07 I came up with this new , overworked version , that is quite simple to cut and file out from 10mm aluminium square tubing , bigger versions of 12mm and even 15mm are also possible . The internal wire harness consists of two sections , that are looped together just behind a small bead under the front closure sheet . The purpose is , that the rear wire portion has some loose play and would act like the club inside a bell to constantly hit the inner wall of the tubing , whilst lure is spinning , to generate a rattling sound . As casting weight a slim olive sinker is rigged onto the rear wire portion , behind it is a solid metal bead , that provides a "sharper" sound , as if only the lead sinker would hit the casing . I made the harness long enough to be able to slide out a bit to the rear of the casing , first to render the weight backward for better casting , second to increase chances for hook-ups , for the two prop-flaps might be in the way for that on ocassion . The two pitched stripes painted along the circumference of the lure give the visual impression of "something alive" , when bait is rotating constantly . -
Here is a design , that I started out with about 10 years ago , the one lure with the red "bucktail"(made of a piece of cord) is the last one , that I still have of those first ones . These were very elaborate to build with their closure plugs of lead and aluminium on either end , also are filled with steelballs , therefore have to be waterproof . These turned out way too heavy , they swam tail-down a bit , but nevertheless I caught pike and perch with them . So in winter 2006/07 I came up with this new , overworked version , that is quite simple to cut and file out from 10mm aluminium square tubing , bigger versions of 12mm and even 15mm are also possible . The internal wire harness consists of two sections , that are looped together just behind a small bead under the front closure sheet . The purpose is , that the rear wire portion has some loose play and would act like the club inside a bell to constantly hit the inner wall of the tubing , whilst lure is spinning , to generate a rattling sound . As casting weight a slim olive sinker is rigged onto the rear wire portion , behind it is a solid metal bead , that provides a "sharper" sound , as if only the lead sinker would hit the casing . I made the harness long enough to be able to slide out a bit to the rear of the casing , first to render the weight backward for better casting , second to increase chances for hook-ups , for the two prop-flaps might be in the way for that on ocassion . The two pitched stripes painted along the circumference of the lure give the visual impression of "something alive" , when bait is rotating constantly . -
I also soak all of my lure-blanks in a wood preservative for added protection . Pinewood , beechwood and others I'd dip into it briefly and let dry for one day , than repeat and dry thoroughly for two to three days before adding hardware and applying first paint coats . Only abachewood blanks are suited for another method to render the wood not vulnerable to water sepage : Take some old forage glas-jars(marmalade , sausages , etc .) and make up a mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine(paint-thinner , no genuine stuff neccesssary) , in equal shares(50/50) . Put your abache-blanks into the liquid and soak for three to five days , they would float up in the jar , so fill it up to the rim and close up with its top tightly to have them entirely covered with the sealer liquid . Fill up the jar with new sealer liquid after one day , also check its level in the jar the second day , since it goes down a bit , because the stuff enters into the wood . After the soaking is done , dry the blanks in a well-ventilated place(it's a bit smelly , but I don't find that linseedoil-smell disgusting) , this takes two to three weeks . During this time the turpentine thinner would evaporate , leaving only the oil in the wood , also rendering it a bit more rigid and slightly heavier . The blanks are OK , when the don't smell a single bit of the liquid anymore . This metod is only suitable for abachewood , tried in on other woods as well , pinewood cracked up after the treatment , limewood lost too much of its buoancy , etc.... . I also soak and dip lureblanks , that have been glued together with waterproof wood glue previously , the treatment does not seem to harm that bond . WARNING : The linseedoil treatment protects your abache-lure for its entire lifetime , but in some cases it can happen after a year or two , that it tarnishes brighter paints and/or brown spots appear under the topcoating . I haven't yet found out , why this happens , I assume , that it has to do with the wood grain and density , because it does not happen to every lure . Also it may be , that my paints(rattle cans , modelmaking enamels)are also subject to this tarnishing , maybe acrylic paints are not , I can't tell , because I haven't used such yet .
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Yet another different , interesting painting style . Very beautiful:) ! -
Made these simple plugs about one year ago , fished them a bit then , but had no strike , though their action would certainly have an appeal on pike . The black/yellow lure is approx. 2 3/5" long , the other one is a little longer , both are carved out of round pinewood dowels . The linetie and hookhanger are made of a single piece of wire , bent in a "paperclip" manner(tag ends bent back towards eyelets) , and epoxied into a bore , that leads from the center of the diving plane to about the half of body length . The longer , silver lure has a simple spinner-harness attached to the hook-eye , in a way that it most likely won't tangle with the treble hook . Unless the blade's splitring won't slide onto a hookpoint , the tractive force of the spinning blade would always free the wire piece from the hook . The blade attachement on the black/yellow lure is more elaborate though , but foolproof , and this model works and casts better . Both lures float up at rest , on retrieve they go down to max. 2 1/2 feet , featuring an irregular wobble and spinning blades . Their blades must be kept in about "fingernail" size , the centrifugal force of a large blade would cause the baits to lay on their sides and not wobble anymore , a happy compromise between wobble and blade size must be found . A little oversized hook helps to let lures swim straight , acting as a kind of keel-weight . -
Made these simple plugs about one year ago , fished them a bit then , but had no strike , though their action would certainly have an appeal on pike . The black/yellow lure is approx. 2 3/5" long , the other one is a little longer , both are carved out of round pinewood dowels . The linetie and hookhanger are made of a single piece of wire , bent in a "paperclip" manner(tag ends bent back towards eyelets) , and epoxied into a bore , that leads from the center of the diving plane to about the half of body length . The longer , silver lure has a simple spinner-harness attached to the hook-eye , in a way that it most likely won't tangle with the treble hook . Unless the blade's splitring won't slide onto a hookpoint , the tractive force of the spinning blade would always free the wire piece from the hook . The blade attachement on the black/yellow lure is more elaborate though , but foolproof , and this model works and casts better . Both lures float up at rest , on retrieve they go down to max. 2 1/2 feet , featuring an irregular wobble and spinning blades . Their blades must be kept in about "fingernail" size , the centrifugal force of a large blade would cause the baits to lay on their sides and not wobble anymore , a happy compromise between wobble and blade size must be found . A little oversized hook helps to let lures swim straight , acting as a kind of keel-weight . -
Made these simple plugs about one year ago , fished them a bit then , but had no strike , though their action would certainly have an appeal on pike . The black/yellow lure is approx. 2 3/5" long , the other one is a little longer , both are carved out of round pinewood dowels . The linetie and hookhanger are made of a single piece of wire , bent in a "paperclip" manner(tag ends bent back towards eyelets) , and epoxied into a bore , that leads from the center of the diving plane to about the half of body length . The longer , silver lure has a simple spinner-harness attached to the hook-eye , in a way that it most likely won't tangle with the treble hook . Unless the blade's splitring won't slide onto a hookpoint , the tractive force of the spinning blade would always free the wire piece from the hook . The blade attachement on the black/yellow lure is more elaborate though , but foolproof , and this model works and casts better . Both lures float up at rest , on retrieve they go down to max. 2 1/2 feet , featuring an irregular wobble and spinning blades . Their blades must be kept in about "fingernail" size , the centrifugal force of a large blade would cause the baits to lay on their sides and not wobble anymore , a happy compromise between wobble and blade size must be found . A little oversized hook helps to let lures swim straight , acting as a kind of keel-weight . -
A version of the "Shakespeare Baby Popper" , found the building instructions in "The Book Of Lures" , by Charles K. Fox . Original lure dates back to the early 1940's , but wasn't on the market for a long time . My version is about 2 1/3" in lenght and turned down from abachewood . The lure has a solid metal bead at its tail to act as a weight , providing a vertical swimming position at rest . Twitched more or less powerful , it would gently pop on the surface and cause rings of small waves around it or cause a loud noise with an "explosion" of bubbles . On a retrieve it doesn't have an appeal to the fish , I suppose . I guess , it's only meant to be tossed from spot to spot , made to pop on each location and then pulled further back in . -
A version of the "Shakespeare Baby Popper" , found the building instructions in "The Book Of Lures" , by Charles K. Fox . Original lure dates back to the early 1940's , but wasn't on the market for a long time . My version is about 2 1/3" in lenght and turned down from abachewood . The lure has a solid metal bead at its tail to act as a weight , providing a vertical swimming position at rest . Twitched more or less powerful , it would gently pop on the surface and cause rings of small waves around it or cause a loud noise with an "explosion" of bubbles . On a retrieve it doesn't have an appeal to the fish , I suppose . I guess , it's only meant to be tossed from spot to spot , made to pop on each location and then pulled further back in . -
@ rofish Thanks a lot , it's true , I really like to fool around with always new and different designs , whereas I don't bother too much about elaborate color patterns and paint jobs , though I really admire those and the skilled people , that work them out . Also thanks for the links , I'll check these out tonight after work ! Greetings , diemai
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Very nice job , keep your son with the baits and he might be the perfect lure design artist one day ! -
@ Vodkaman I would if I could , but I'm sorry to say that I am quite dump about computers , got one for the first time in mid-January and I am happy to have gotten so far as I am now . In other words , I don't know how to upload single pictures here in the forum and especially not how to upload entire files with multiple pics plus text:( . So far as I am concerned , one must first submit the pics to a service site and then write the link to it here, but I have never bothered so far finding out about it . On the German counterpart site to TU , KoederDesign.de - alles f
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@ LURE JUNKIE ooops , I forgot , the describtion below only stands for "Globe" lures , "Tallywhackers" I rig a little different , you may request a describtion for these as well . Don't have time for it right now , got a date . diemai
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Hi , LURE JUNKIE , I have made a couple of such lures through the years , local pike don't seem to like them a lot , but a Dutch friend got a 51" pike on one of my bait in the Netherlands . Anyway , I rig these lures as follows : I drill the hole for the wireshaft from either side of the lureblank's rear portion , to meet in the middle of it . It's got to be accurate work , also this way I avoid the hole to exit out of center on one end . When the bore for shaft is completed , I'd extend it on the front end , just for the bearing rivet to fit in . The rear end I'd also extend for the wireshaft closure coils to fit in snugly . (NOTICE : I utilize straight wire shafts , furnish the rear eyelet on it myself , the closure coils around the shaft I don't wrap coil against coil , but I would leave some space inbetween , so that later the epoxy glue finds better grip , make that coil at least 1/2" long .) The belly eyelet I'd make out of little thinner wire(easier bending , less diameter hole required) , make a smaller closure loop on one end for the wireshaft to pass through , on the other end I furnish the little larger hook eyelet , 90
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@ finlander They are also quite new in the "Moore's Lures" line !
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Very nice lure , the scales are looking somehow..........just natural ! -
@ rlcam You did a great job , they look far better than my own spray-can colored lures , I just don't take the patience for achieving such neat looking baits . Also like your first foil lure , I'm planning on my first one as well , with your pic you have already helped me a bit , otherwise , I guess , I would have attached the lip before foiling . Greetings , diemai
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Very beautiful and detailed , the fin looks like photography , or it's sprayed on , too ? Anyway , it's something , that I never would achieve . -
@ mark poulson Only Spanish , I speak , is "una cerveza , porfavor !" , and I won't espect a spoken answer to it:) . Learnt English and French in school , almost 30 years ago . But my English is a lot , lot better than my French , since I've got relatives in England and used to spend every summer vacation between 1975 and 1981 over there . Didn't have many chances about speaking French though , few weeks alltogether in southern France , that's it . And back in school I remember my mistress talking rather more about French cooking than French grammar:( .
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Well , not quite anymore , it's past midnight:( ! For the three lures pictured here I employed a different construction method , that I didn't use before , but that appeared to be quite easy to me . The lures are made of halfround pinewood dowels , that are glued together with waterproof wood glue and a throughwire-harness set in before . For symetrical shaping and bonding , the two halves have been screwed together , also temporary pinned together with toothpicks through the screwholes , when the screws disturbed the sanding of the flanks . After glueing together , the screwholes were also closed with toothpicks . The wireharness of the two jerkbaits is placed towards the back portion of the lure to gain space on its belly side for the weights fore and aft , that let them sink level and make them to perform a nice glide action side to side . -
Well , not quite anymore , it's past midnight:( ! For the three lures pictured here I employed a different construction method , that I didn't use before , but that appeared to be quite easy to me . The lures are made of halfround pinewood dowels , that are glued together with waterproof wood glue and a throughwire-harness set in before . For symetrical shaping and bonding , the two halves have been screwed together , also temporary pinned together with toothpicks through the screwholes , when the screws disturbed the sanding of the flanks . After glueing together , the screwholes were also closed with toothpicks . The wireharness of the two jerkbaits is placed towards the back portion of the lure to gain space on its belly side for the weights fore and aft , that let them sink level and make them to perform a nice glide action side to side . -
Love that British sense of humour:lol: !
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Made quite a few ones of these lures in sizes from 5" to 9" , they are simply carved out of rectangular dowels of buoyant wood . Got the idea from an upload on www.luremaking.com , only altered the tow position more upward to achieve more diving depth . I made them plain , but also with a tailspin as pictured or a small prop on the tail , in this case the tail should be a little rounded off , so that the oncoming current has better access to the prop . These lures are weighted to float up very , very slightly head-down to dive possibly deep . On smaller versions I have already caught quite a few pike 20" to 26" , but the bigger ones I didn't fish that much so far . Top lure has a little "strange" coloration , I just felt like fooling around randomly with my spray cans:huh: ! Sorry about the bad quality of the fish picture , my camera isn't that good , and it's not that easy either to play a fish with one hand and make photo's with the other , won't be possible at all , if the fish was bigger:) . -
Made quite a few ones of these lures in sizes from 5" to 9" , they are simply carved out of rectangular dowels of buoyant wood . Got the idea from an upload on www.luremaking.com , only altered the tow position more upward to achieve more diving depth . I made them plain , but also with a tailspin as pictured or a small prop on the tail , in this case the tail should be a little rounded off , so that the oncoming current has better access to the prop . These lures are weighted to float up very , very slightly head-down to dive possibly deep . On smaller versions I have already caught quite a few pike 20" to 26" , but the bigger ones I didn't fish that much so far . Top lure has a little "strange" coloration , I just felt like fooling around randomly with my spray cans:huh: ! Sorry about the bad quality of the fish picture , my camera isn't that good , and it's not that easy either to play a fish with one hand and make photo's with the other , won't be possible at all , if the fish was bigger:) . -
Also two prototypes of sinking jerkbaits , that I named "Dude" and "Lil'Dude" . These are turned from round wood-dowels into a conical shape , after the flanks and head portion sanded to shape with a grinding disc . They have weights fore and aft to provide a horizontal sink level . For testing purposes I placed the towpoint eyelets at different locations , but I found out , that the larger version glides much better , even on harder jerks . The smaller lure , with its eyelet placed more up the nose , would lay on its side on stronger jerks , but yet also dart to both sides , when it comes to rest , it would feature a little "tremble" of its body . On gentle twitches it would remain level and also randomly dart to either side , but not as pronounced as the bigger lure . So next time I would place the linetie a bit lower , maybe just inbetween these two locations pictured , and see , what would come out of it . Bigger jerkbait is 6" in length , I'll definately make some more , 'cause I'm convinced about its action .
