diemai
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Everything posted by diemai
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Nice and neat piece of work ! I always wonder , how some guys around here manage to accurately drill a small hole for the center wire shaft all along the 6" length of the lure , and it even exits , where it's supposed to ! Hats off ! -
I like the smooth blending of the colors on that lure pictured with the coin , but no matter , how hard and close I look at it , I just can't figure out , how you did this "zig-zag" lateral line ! Well done ! -
@ Mr.J. , you scared me a bit about thinking to have passed over wrong information , I didn't feel too well about it , but now obviously things finally turned out for good , hope that you now get what you need ! good success with anything , that you're up to , diemai
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I know , that this way of fishing is not very popular in the States , but I found a few people interested in such(at least in floats) in one or two threads on TU , so I made up my mind to put these creations into the gallery;) . Pictured are sinkers , cast without a mold into discharged ammo casings , these are suitable for rigs fished in stillwater or in only little current. The other type of sinker is cast in the aluminium casing of so-called "tea-warmer" candles , these are suited for stronger currents to hold the bait in place . To provide a tangle-free presentation of the bait , the mainline should run through a so-called "anti-tangle-tube" . Second pic shows some feeder(or chumming) baskets , the coiled ones are for a little "stickier" chum , the ones of wire mesh are filled with a little lighter stuff . They are used for fish like carp , tench , roach , bream , etc.... , all non-predatory fish . The basic "homebrew" chum consists of oats , bread crumps , scents , spices , etc.... , also particles like sweetcorn , crunched dogfood , maggots , etc... may be added . There are dozens of ready-made chums and ingridients available over here , several for each target species . Those baskets are fished on so-called "swing-tip",-and "feeder" rods , that provide the most sensitive strike indication . The largest rectangular basket has a closeable top , I designed it years ago to fill it with chopped minnows to attract zander(walleye) and eel . On my first test those days I put out two rigs , only 20 yards apart , one with that basket , the other one with an ordinary sinker set-up , bait were dead minnows on both . Three zander struck that night , and guess , on which rod;) ? Third pic displays a few of homemade floats , made of reed and of balsawood . The reed floats hardly cost anything and yet are perfect for the purpose , some are equipped with two leading rings for further casting , also have a little "antenna" on top to stick-on those very popular chemical lights for nightfishing . The balsa floats are shaped in a drillpress , just with sandpaper, many different shapes are possible , just a few shown here . The two floats shaped like a baseball bat are weighted with a piece of brass dowel , that also acts as the attachement eyelet , this type casts further and is yet more sensitive for cautious fish , 'cause not so much weight has to be placed onto mainline and leader . Questions ? feel free to ask , greetings , diemai -
I know , that this way of fishing is not very popular in the States , but I found a few people interested in such(at least in floats) in one or two threads on TU , so I made up my mind to put these creations into the gallery;) . Pictured are sinkers , cast without a mold into discharged ammo casings , these are suitable for rigs fished in stillwater or in only little current. The other type of sinker is cast in the aluminium casing of so-called "tea-warmer" candles , these are suited for stronger currents to hold the bait in place . To provide a tangle-free presentation of the bait , the mainline should run through a so-called "anti-tangle-tube" . Second pic shows some feeder(or chumming) baskets , the coiled ones are for a little "stickier" chum , the ones of wire mesh are filled with a little lighter stuff . They are used for fish like carp , tench , roach , bream , etc.... , all non-predatory fish . The basic "homebrew" chum consists of oats , bread crumps , scents , spices , etc.... , also particles like sweetcorn , crunched dogfood , maggots , etc... may be added . There are dozens of ready-made chums and ingridients available over here , several for each target species . Those baskets are fished on so-called "swing-tip",-and "feeder" rods , that provide the most sensitive strike indication . The largest rectangular basket has a closeable top , I designed it years ago to fill it with chopped minnows to attract zander(walleye) and eel . On my first test those days I put out two rigs , only 20 yards apart , one with that basket , the other one with an ordinary sinker set-up , bait were dead minnows on both . Three zander struck that night , and guess , on which rod;) ? Third pic displays a few of homemade floats , made of reed and of balsawood . The reed floats hardly cost anything and yet are perfect for the purpose , some are equipped with two leading rings for further casting , also have a little "antenna" on top to stick-on those very popular chemical lights for nightfishing . The balsa floats are shaped in a drillpress , just with sandpaper, many different shapes are possible , just a few shown here . The two floats shaped like a baseball bat are weighted with a piece of brass dowel , that also acts as the attachement eyelet , this type casts further and is yet more sensitive for cautious fish , 'cause not so much weight has to be placed onto mainline and leader . Questions ? feel free to ask , greetings , diemai -
I know , that this way of fishing is not very popular in the States , but I found a few people interested in such(at least in floats) in one or two threads on TU , so I made up my mind to put these creations into the gallery;) . Pictured are sinkers , cast without a mold into discharged ammo casings , these are suitable for rigs fished in stillwater or in only little current. The other type of sinker is cast in the aluminium casing of so-called "tea-warmer" candles , these are suited for stronger currents to hold the bait in place . To provide a tangle-free presentation of the bait , the mainline should run through a so-called "anti-tangle-tube" . Second pic shows some feeder(or chumming) baskets , the coiled ones are for a little "stickier" chum , the ones of wire mesh are filled with a little lighter stuff . They are used for fish like carp , tench , roach , bream , etc.... , all non-predatory fish . The basic "homebrew" chum consists of oats , bread crumps , scents , spices , etc.... , also particles like sweetcorn , crunched dogfood , maggots , etc... may be added . There are dozens of ready-made chums and ingridients available over here , several for each target species . Those baskets are fished on so-called "swing-tip",-and "feeder" rods , that provide the most sensitive strike indication . The largest rectangular basket has a closeable top , I designed it years ago to fill it with chopped minnows to attract zander(walleye) and eel . On my first test those days I put out two rigs , only 20 yards apart , one with that basket , the other one with an ordinary sinker set-up , bait were dead minnows on both . Three zander struck that night , and guess , on which rod;) ? Third pic displays a few of homemade floats , made of reed and of balsawood . The reed floats hardly cost anything and yet are perfect for the purpose , some are equipped with two leading rings for further casting , also have a little "antenna" on top to stick-on those very popular chemical lights for nightfishing . The balsa floats are shaped in a drillpress , just with sandpaper, many different shapes are possible , just a few shown here . The two floats shaped like a baseball bat are weighted with a piece of brass dowel , that also acts as the attachement eyelet , this type casts further and is yet more sensitive for cautious fish , 'cause not so much weight has to be placed onto mainline and leader . Questions ? feel free to ask , greetings , diemai -
I know Divani , the designer of those lures , he is from Belgium , got some of his original lures made by himself , I am sure , he would be very delighted about seeing your lures here . -
The outer shape of the crankbait is quite interesting to me , also the very long lip . I bet , that it has a very strong wobble and side-roll . The muskies won't get away from it's hooks forever............. ! -
A well-composed symphfony of color .... yeah ! -
Had a very close look at this pic , and then............. saw it swimming through the water .......! Imagination , though , but it's that realistic ! Never saw such a lip configuration , does it provide a special lure-action ? Regards , diemai -
@ DougL58 Should have mentioned from the start , that you are into a swim bait , would have kept my big mouth shut , these are above my standards:( . But I have already made a design sketch of a three-section-bait , gonna start cutting out these days , just ought to try it , too:wink: . regards , diemai
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@ Vodkaman , @ mark poulson kill by smell , aye ? @ King Bait Co. Sorry about that wasted money , but many , too many lures are put out to hook fishermen , not fish . Better stay with the old proven classics of whatever kind . But your lures would surely catch fish , with or without some tinkering , because that's exactly what you make them for . Greetings , diemai
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@ Vodkaman , yeah , surely better to do so;) .
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Just like mark poulson I am now talking about something , that I have not done before , and I agree with him as well , that such exterior sponge-piece might minor the lure action . On some of my crankbaits I ocassionally assemble homemade rattles of round metal tubing (8 mm dia , 0,5 mm wall) . I place these into holes , that are drilled crosswise through the lure-blank , and seal them off with putty . Anyway , my idea about your scent-sponge is now to also drill a hole through the lure and glue in a piece of tubing , maybe little larger and of plastic , off course you must leave both ends open . You could later paint your lure and seal off as usual , it would loose only a little buoancy . The sponge you could always push into the hole and it would stay there , if you cut it large enough in diameter to comprime a bit and therefore bind into the hole . Cut precisely , it would also sit reasonably flush with the flanks of the bait and not disturb its action at all . Good success with anything , that you're up to , diemai
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@ BobP , I usually make about six to eleven lures in one batch , but most likely all different ones , only if requests of friends occur , I'd carve some lookalikes , but not more than five together , it's too boring for me to always reproduce the same models . On the other hand , if I managed to design a good lure , I ought to have more of them , for friends and in case of loss . My batches consist of that certain amount of lures , just because not too waste the mixed epoxy finish , that I mix in small medication cups , these are very handy for such , 'cause they already have scale marks for accurate mixing , and one mixing process is just enough for that certain amount of lures . I don't utilise that method of scales and keeping records , only have sketches of my lures for shaping them alike . I am kind of lazy to do that scale thing , though I surely see point in it , even also for small amounts of lures it makes things easier . But even if I would do so as well , I won't feel good to rely on it , I have more confidence in those tests in the bath-tube . But like with so many others things, there are different ways to achieve something , it's only a matter of personal preferrence . regards , diemai
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@ DougL58 , "Uuups":huh: , obviously I was a little confused about your "two-piece" lure in my first post here. Thought you meant one with two sections , that's why I keep writing about a "slot" all the time , sorry . Such comes if one sits on the screen half asleep in the middle of the night ! Anyway , but my third suggestion works on such wooden lures put together of two halves pretty well , I just recently finished a batch of crankbaits that way . But the method of BobP is very useful , especially when reproducing certain models in larger quantities , which I usually don't do . Greetings ,diemai
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@ Vodkaman , sure I'm prepared about paying all these dues , but it was on one certain occasion years ago , that I got a bit mad about all this tax stuff : Ordered for two tackle boxes , they were delivered in TWO packages , only one contained the shipping papers and invoice , got this one first . One week later I got a notice from local customs office to come to determine about the value of a parcel without any enclosed documents . Well , I went there with the invoice of the first package , both supplies were listed there correctly and they were able to determine the fee . Ok , I paid the taxes , after I had a close look at the tax document , that stated something like "VAT on Merchandise Value" . So I asked them there , why they also calculated their tax on the shipping costs , when only "Value" is stated on their bill ? The officers were unable to give me ANY explanation about the how's and why's , so I asked the leading officer to explain to me , why I should pay tax on the shipping costs , first it was not stated on their document , second shipping costs are something , that is impossible to import into the country ! Well , this guy just raised his shoulders at me , saying " it's like that....!" and left me standing there . Since I remembered this event during writing my last post here , I became a little hot-tempered whilst doing so , that was my problem:angry: . Greetings , diemai
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I assume , that because you have a jointed bait of balsa , you won't rig it with screweyes but with a through wire harness . If I want to determine about the neccessary weight to be placed into a wooden lure , that is rigged with eyescrews , I would first apply two coats of ordinary clear laquer , pre-assemble lip and all hardware and then test the lure in my bathtube , I'd tape some leadshot , sinkers or folded roofing leadsheet to desired location onto the lure , and then I fool around with it until the right amount of weight at the right location is found , to provide best lure-action . After I drill holes at these determined locations of the lureblank and set in the weights with epoxy glue , for the final painting I just sand over the clearcoat , that is only meant for preventing water sepage during testing , so that following paint coats adhere better . But if you have a through wired lure , things are not that simple , because the slot at the belly is somehow disturbing . There are three ways to proceed now : Also clear-coat the inside of the slot against water sepage , set in the harness only temporary and push pieces of lead sheet into the slot after the wire , test again in water for action and to determine weight . It doesn't seem to be very practical to paint the slot inside to me , in fact I never did it this way , just an idea . Second is to really estimate the weight required and it's location and glue leadsheet into the slot together with the wire , but it would take some experience to hit it right , I have done this on two lures recently , and they didn't turn out too bad . The third possibility is just to place your wire harness quite "high" inside the lurebody , meaning , more towards the back of it glue it in and again clearcoat your lure for testing . Now , that you have put the internal wire harness further away from the belly of the lure , you gained space for drilling leadholes , even through the cured glue inside the wire slot . This last one is my prefered method , but your balsa lure would probably require a lot of weight , since it's that buoyant , it depends on it's size and how deep it should run . Good success with anything , that you're up to , diemai;)
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Very pretty repaint , indeed ! Makes me to assume , that those carp there are the kind with scales all over and not the ones with the smooth skin and few scales(a musky won't care about the difference) . -
It's a real beauty , especially I like the way , that you painted the contrasting head with its eyes and fins , did you use a sort of ink-pen for those nicely detailed fins ? -
"Welldone" would surely be understatement ! -
Very beautiful lures , indeed , they look like coming from the last millenium(this is a compliment !!!!) . Did you make the entire prop-blade yourself or you just set in a home-made bushing into shop-bought components ? Also thought about a soup-up of those props that way , but never did it so far , local fish over here don't seem to like such lures , there are different topwater baits , that they respond better to . -
hi , akriverrat , you took a great effort to color those jigging spoons , hats off ! And thank's a lot about the tip about GOOGLE , I'll check these out . Good success with your new lures , diemai -
Hi, Mr.J. I don't understand this , in "Moore's Lures" catalog is stated , that they offer special rebates for items ordered in larger amounts , smaller amounts would be charged the full catalog prize . I never purchased screw-eyes there more than 150 pieces per size , most likely far less than 100 pcs. , in the catalog they are sold per 10 pcs. minimum . Are we even talking about the same supplier , from Woodruff/Wisconsin ?
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Hi , Florida Don I've also been making copies of vintage lures , just out of curiousity , how these would work , fore I had never seen such lures before over here in Germany . I made those lures after book pictures exclusively , after "Old Fishing Lures & Tackle" by Carl f. Luckey , mailordered that one from England years ago , but it is an American print . Surely my lures did not turn out that beautiful like the ones shown here at TU , but it was great fun building them and off course catching fish on a few models of these:) . Check The Hard Bait Database ,they have some lure-collectors links there , maybe , you'll find something there for yourself . Regards , diemai
