diemai

Thought it might be of advantage to put up a picture of that particular "Whirligig" in here , 'cause in the videos the paint jobs are not visible too clear . So well , ....here is a link to my gallery : http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/15298-beechwood-whirligig/ Greetings , Dieter

OK ,......back at home again to chime in , ........even installed a different browser , hopefully that one would enable me to provide straight links ! It happens to be, that during past weeks I had uploaded a 9 part video series on YouTube dealing on the complete making of a certain luremodel , a rotary head lure named "Whirligig" . This video series turned out to be pretty long , since I did not cut the single clips nor edited them , ...just having a lot to say , I guess . Anyway , reagarding my own painting work please check out about the secont half of part 5 : (Wow , the new browser seems to work !) ........proceeding the painting in part 6 : ........and finally the detail painting plus applying glitter jelly : I'd leave these clips speak so far , ...if you'd have further questions about my painting methods , please call back in , .......greetz , Dieter

Just came across , ......will chime in in about 10 -12 hours from now, ...no time right now ! See ya , Dieter

Mark, ...is your knot sitting tightly around the wire loop or you're using some sort of a fixed loop knot like the "Rapala Knot" ? The latter was created to let the lure move absolutely freely , just like with being attached with a round bend snap like the DuoLock , ....otherwise I can only second to Dave's post above , ........greetings , Dieter

OK , ...as promised, ...here are some pictures displaying , how I do my crankbaits sporting their line tie on the lip . Guess , that the pictures say it all , ...only thing left to say is , that the ballast sheets are only temporary , .....they'll be trimmed during water bucket swim tests after having sealed the lure with a 48 hrs. propionate soak and following 10 propionate dips ,........after desired swim level would have been determined ,a blank swimtest in the bath tub is in order to check out , whether lip , tow eye position or ballast amount/location would still require to be altered in terms of a good swimming action . If these tests would finally lead to satisfying results , the ballast and the wireform connected to the lip would then be glued into the belly slot using 5 min. epoxy glue , ...afterwards cured glue remainders would be worked down flush to the lurebody to render the lure ready for painting . Greetz , Dieter

I'm just into the build of some cranks again , one amongst sporting a deep diving lip and the line tie on it , .....gonna shoot some pics and going to put them up in here in about 15-20 hrs. from now . See ya , Dieter

@ m-vandorn I may not try to build such a lure after your kindly shared instructíons , as I'm not too smart about electronics , ......but stlll I'd like to thank you for your willingness to share your design in here , .....it's people like you making this site so extraordinary . Good luck with commercializing your design , ....best greetings , Dieter

Too bad to hear about that recrudescence , .....hope you'd get over it real soon , ....best wishes , Dieter

Here in Europe we barely go without some kinda snap connecting our lures , simply because the use of toothproof leaders is essential almost everywhere , since there hardly isn't any swim not holding toothy pike . There also are quite a few sophisticated snap designs around,.......perfectly designed to be safe against accidental opening , but most are a pain in the butt to me to open or close to switch lures . The widely used , simple snap hook swivels are not suited for lures , as the kinda triangular and pointy bend of the snap hinders free movements of the lure ,...maybe only inline spinners and spinnerbaits could be attached to these without losing part of their action , but also their rated pull strength is the poorest of all snapswivels available over here . This is why I also prefer using those Duolock snaps pictured above , as they are not complicated to use and same time do offer a fairly good grade of security , .....also they come cheaper compared to other models . But , .....the Duolocks may accidentally open as well under certain circumstances, ....these are when utilizing them as connectors lead through two holes through a metal deep diving lip on vintage style crankbaits , ......and also when connecting bigger and heavy glidebaits to them . In first case they may open under the strain of a fish because the forward pointing closing end of the snap would tilt against the forward hole through the lip , ...but this can be avoided by switching the snap around with the closing end pointing rearward AND bending the little overlapping snap hook close(no disconnecting neccessary since being used as a lure component in this case) . The second , much more hazardous case , would be when utilizing Duolocks to connect large and heavy glidebaits , ......when working these lures , the fairly large snap at the end of a single strand wire leader(large size essential due to the strain on this heavy gear) might get to tilt around the tow eye and due to the force of the jerks required to work such heavy lures they might open to lose your lure this way(been there, done that) , ........even when not opening, they would at least waste your cast , because your glidebait would not swim correctly anymore . So , to avoid this hazard , it would be a good idea to rig a splitring to such lures' tow eyes and connect the snap to the splitring , .......I'm pretty much certain ,that on particular lure models(no matter what gliders, jerkbaits or crankbaits) a splitring switched inbetween snap and tow eye would improve the swimming action , at least won't do any harm either , .....provided being chosen in a matching pull strength . I also have one particular homemde deep diving minnow bait sporting a deep diving , oval Lexan bill , .......the Duolocks at the end of the seven strand wire leader or also on 1,0mm hardmono leaders also tends to tilt with the line tie located at the center of the lip , ...never opened accidentally , though ,..... guess , because no heavy jerking involved like being done with glidebaits , ...but many casts with this proven lure of mine had been wasted due to snap fouling , .....before I've finally slid a matching splitring over the tow eye . Just my , .........greetings , Dieter

Dale ,...after my very little knowledge there are different styles of lures being made specificly for Australian game fish , .....in a nutshell ,.....the lures meant for Yellowbelly Perch and Murray Cod are the ones sporting a pronounced body curvature and often a big deep diving lip ,...the lures for fishing for Barramundi are more straight and more similar to European and American minnow baits , though some are also made in the significant Aussie style with their "V"-shaped bellies . You may google terms "Halco Poltergeist" and "Halco Sorcerer" to see examples of this two styles made by that famous Australian lure manufacturing company (I know , that these are exported to Europe as well , in particular the "Sorcerer" one can find in Scandinavian web shops , ....also bought some used ones even on local fleamarkets here in Hamburg/Germany) . I've been making my own versions of such lures for a few years now and after my humble experiences those lures like the "Poltergeist" do not have sucha strong appeal for our local pike , but surely do have for perch , ...whereas Australian lures designed to target Barramundi can be used for European pike without any limitations . To learn more about Australian lures , their design and their makers you may check out www.lurelovers.com , ....a great Australian site for lure enthusiasts . Greetz , Dieter

Ben , .....I remember , that someone in here had mentioned this lure a good while ago , ........maybe it was you or Mark , don't recall anymore , .......still available though , as there are a handful of listings for this lure on US Ebay currently . Greetings , Dieter

Sorry , somehow it did not work out to edit my post above ! Dale , ..the lure , that you have kindly linked there , looks more like a "Kadaitcha" to me , a lure model designed by famous Australian luremaker Peter Newell(1945-2009) , in an orbituary published on occassion of his passing I've read , that he was inspired by an American lure named "Bagley's Smoo". My own lure pictured above was inpired by the Australian "Stump Jumper" , yet more flat and with a "V"-shaped belly cross-section , I've made a handful of this style during past years. I reckon , that Dave has just named it "Australian Broadback" on his own terms ,......that's why you could not find anything about it , Ben .,.......but if you'd like some more info or pictures , just call back in . Greetz , Dieter

Seems to me , that a little confusion about that "Aussie Broadback Lure" did occur , ......I reckon , that Dave had initially refered to the lure shown in the picture attached .

@ Vodkaman Thanks a lot for that statement , Dave , .......never would have thought about a concave rear end to enhance shallow running , ......this would surely come very useful for my plans on designing shallow running and long casting lures , .......your knowledge about hydronomics and physics is unmatched in here ! Thanks , Dieter

I have always wondered about that question , too , ...but right now I'm into making a video series of 7-8 parts about how to make a certain lure model from wood dowel to finished lure , ...since the clips are left uncut , I could later determine about the exact time being used , .....I'm eager to find out . Greetz , Dieter

@ Vodkaman Dave , thanks a lot for ponting out that "Aussie Broadback" for a shallow swim , ......haven't even thought about such,.....a must try ! @ mark poulson Exactly my findings too , ...a longer body provides more stability , both in terms of casting AND retrieving . Also a curved body does enhance the wiggle , as the downward pointing tail end acts like f. e. the depth rudder of a submarine leading the lure downward , BUT , ......in opposition to a submarine a lure does not have any guiding rudders to keep a straight course and retain straight guidance , thus this downward motion of the lure also transists into a sideward motion , only limited and finally reversed by the force and direction of the line pull AND the increasing pressure on the upward pointing side of the diving bill at that very moment . So this is the cause of the more pronounced wobble of curved lurebodies , ....at least im my little mind bare of any knowledge of physics . Greetings , Dieter

@ Vodkaman The protruding shallow diver's lip, ......exactly the problem ! I had read about your hinged lips in here before , but I intent to go without such , just a forward pointing, small lip and the line tie to the nose of the lure, .......a Pikie style lip(also called "Z-lip")is another option . Off course I would have to make sacrifices in terms of swimming action limitations this way , but I believe , that the expected more or less tighter wiggle patterns are just right to have an appeal on local pike . Please go to YouTube and type in "New Homemade Crankbaits October 2015" into the search function , .....amongst others there is an experimental lure displayed in there , .....sporting a long and pointy lip and has it's line tie to the nose , ....I'll attach a picture of it to this post , ..........in the video I'm making some words about the long casting properties of this particular lure , .....so this basic body design with it's more voluminous rear portion of a fairly long and slender body and a forward pointing lip is going to be the base of my experiments . What I've found is , that this particular lure yet dives deeper than stated in that video , ....10 to 11 feet is closer to reality , I'd say , ....so if I could get a lure of such or similar body shape to dive to 2 to 4 feet still retaining it's unmatched casting performance(not shown in the video , but cast's even better compared to the deep diver's casting performance displayed) . And a somewhat increased wiggle compared to this lure shown on attached picture would be neccessary as well , but strictly keeping the forward pointing lip angle and the fatter rear of body for casting performance . I know , that one can't trick the laws of physics(that I am not even familiar to ) , but I'm quite certain , that I could come up with something useful ! Greetings , Dieter

Dave , ......this sounds pretty much interesting to me , ..but yet very,very elaborate , too . For this coming winter's lure building season I've also put some experimentals on my list , ......but not as elaborate as your plans , not by far ,........after having been lucky to obviously have gotten behind the secrets of perfect long casting properties on deep diving timber lures , I want to try to adapt these properties for shallow divers as well . And , .....to get back to Mark's original topic , ......basically I do my lures similar to Mark as described in post #1 , ...I'd certainly trust my eye more than my marker lines on the blank ,......when having rounded off the back portion of a lure smooth , I'd even lay it on the workbench upright to see , whether it would cant over to one side . Repeating this process for a few times would clearly detect little imperfections in terms of symetry of the rounding , at least if the blank keeps rolling over to one side only(if it rolls left or right to equal shares or even stands , the symetry is perfect). Greetz , Dieter

You guys make me blush , .......I'm just a little passionate about lures , ...that just about it ! But I 100% agree to Curt's statement , ........a great site like this stands and falls with the willingness and cooperation of it's members , .....the seniors , the regulars AND the newbies alike , .....and I consider myself to be just a very,very tiny cogwheel in this great gearbox called TU . ........and thanks a lot for the positive recognition of my humble video clips ,...that's my encouragement to do some more in future , ..... Greetings , Dieter

@m_vandorn Just type in "Homemade Creeper Lure" into the YouTube search bar ,.....my channel name there is "61diemai" . I agree about the difficulties on working with stainless steel , , ......but for the creeper wings it's just 0,5 mm thick sheet and for the assembly plates it's 1,0mm thickness , ...still manageable to me , ......I'm handmaking stainless casting spoons of 1,5mm and up to 2,0 mm stainless sheets as well , ....and the 2,0mm stuff is getting increasingly tough . Greetings , Dieter

@ JRammit Certainly you may link ANY of my humble videos anywhere you please , ........like Curt stated , they're up to public view(really need to switch to another browser but IE , enabling my to do it by myself) . But that video there is not detailed explanation about how to make the wings , just some brief information and assembly pictures . But there isn't really much to it , ......provided , one has access to the tools to work with stainless steel sheet(shears for straight and curved cuts , fine metal saw , files , drillpress , vise , plastic hammer , hammer , riveter , polishing wheels and a few others) . The probably most complicated(or better said , maybe most uncommon) thing , ........the way how to make the creeper wings hinge ferrules , ....has already been put up for here on TU since 6 1/2 years , ...please check the forum section "Hardbaits " under topic "Member Submitted Tutorials" , .....somewhere on page two there is a thread titled "Sheet Metal Hinges" , ...my initial post there contains a PDF file about such hinges , ...basically same way the hinge ferrules of my creeper wings were made , ......BUT , ....a lot more simple to do than the rather elaborate swimbait hinges , .....I promise ! Thanks a lot for your interest , always happy and glad , if I should be able to provide a little input and help with my humble lure,-and video work , .....greetings , Dieter

Talk is silver , silence is golden !

...I can only second to Dave , .....good recovery furthermore , Nate ! All the best , Dieter