diemai
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Everything posted by diemai
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@ onelastcast ........my pleasure , .....always welcome , mate;) ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ onelastcast I either use plastic jig rattles(on smaller lures) or homemade ones made from dia. 8mm brass tubing and steel balls(for biiger lures) . I always tend to put them crosswise into a bore at the about fattest part of the body , simply because this is the widest part for them to fit in , as my rattles are almost as long as the lure blanks width . Due to their length they don't fail to work there even on minor roll of the lure , but a shorter rattle might not work , as the balls inside don't have as much distance to roll back and forth . TU member rofish recently wrote a statement , that he likes to place his rattles on the very body ends of the lure , because the lure's swing("Xing" viewed from top) would be the greatest there , thus the small rattles are safer to really work . Because there is no sufficient space inside the lurebody at those locations(due to the body taper) , he has placed the rattle outside of the body , somewhere below the lips base . A picture of that very smart design is somewhere in the hardbait gallery , do a search on his uploads . I would also advise you not to use lead sinkers , but steel balls or at least solid brass beads inside of the rattle casings , as these generate a sharper "click" as lead balls would do . good luck , diemai:yay:
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@ Thad Make your lip up to 140% of body width wider at its tip , the base should be a bit narrower than the lureblanks width . The wider and longer it is , the more the lure would tend to lay on either side on retrieve , but once you've reached a certain grade of width , the lure might not wiggle anymore , but dig down straight only . The tow eye should be located at about nose tip of the lure(for a wake bait) . Like spoopa said , you can leave the rear flanks narrower , but I would make the front portion a bit more voluminous and not too narrow . A wake bait is supposed to stay just beneath the surface , thus it requires sufficient buoyancy , otherwise even the downward pointing lip would cause it to dive a few inches below , especially , if you have set in extra weights , ......as a result it won't cause no wake on the surface anymore . You can set the grade of wobble either by the length and width(generally speaking , ... the plane)of the lip and by utilizing ballast acting as a keel weight . Combining both is also possible , off course . I have made just a few wake baits before , I always made them highly buoyant(thus voluminous) and with wide and long lips , .........thus I could always embed some weight and/or shave the lip , if the wiggle turned out too strong for my taste , ......or the lure even turned on its back ! good luck , diemai:yay:
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@ sinyo When you've finally got your baitcasting gear , spool on cheap mono line at first to practise the casting , ...........did this as well with my first one ! Needed to refill the spool one or two times before I was perfect enough casting without backlashes and I did dare to spool on expensive braid . good luck , diemai:yay:
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@ sinyo I assume , that with BC reels you are refering to baitcasting reels , over here we also call them multiplicator reels(the second term refers rather to round ones like an "ACU Cardinal" , the first term we also use for those low-profile reels) . Unlike in America , we utilize left-hand wind reels almost exclusively , nowadays there is a wide array of LH casting reels available , which was not the case still about 15 years ago , as only a few BC enthusiasts had to use the American style RH retrieve reels . In Germany spinning reels have ever been popular as well , the Scandinavian countries were(and certainly still are) more stuck to BC and also closed face reels . But nowadays , as fishing glider jerkbaits and topwater lures has gained increased popularity over here , also the BC reel gets more and more utilized , as for any jerking and ripping retrieve it is superior to a spinning reel , both in terms of durability and also in terms of causing less backlashes(or bird's nests) , when working baits with a jerking retrieve . After my experience spinning reels are vulnerable to bird's nests , as they continiously spool slack line whilst a jerky retrieve , sooner or later this would result into multiple coils of line getting torn off the spool on a later cast , .......these would either cause bird's nests or in the worst case these could also wind around a rod ring and snap off your lure . Spinning reels are more suited for continious retrieves without too much slack line . Surely BC reels cause backlashes as well , if not set right ,....... it takes some practice and re-setting on every switch of lures ,....... but they are stronger built and you have more feel for a hooked fish , as the line goes straight down to the spool and does not make a 90
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Very nice pike , indeed:yes: ! greetz , diemai:yay: -
Gee............she REALLY inhaled that thing ,.......great strike on a great lure:yes: ! nice shots indeed:yes: , .........greetz:yay: , diemai -
Missed this all of the time:huh: , .......absolutely great lure and swimming action:yes: ,....... should not bother about this little roll , .........it makes that little "sick" jackpike a premium target to the bigger ones ! Love your lures and videos , ......greetz , diemai:yay:
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..............something about these patterns , I really like them:yes: ! Nice work:yes: , .........greetz:yay: , diemai -
@ spidergrub6 I am a fan of the theory , that a surface lure in a pure black color provides the best visibility for the fish from down below against the bright sky , also against a moonlight night sky . For the angler to be also able to easily locate the lure , I like to paint the head portion in a bright fluo orange or yellow color . Sometimes I also like spray on a scale pattern on the flanks and a matching solid color on the back , still leave the belly black , .......but this is only to please the anglers eyes . But with imitating the color patterns of the natural forage of your target fish you should never go wrong as well , I guess;) . good luck , diemai:yay:
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@ Green_Fingers , @ bbduc Sorry , my mistake:o , ....should have read over the describtion well:huh: ! Still very nice baits , though ! greetz , diemai:yay: -
@ bassinjody Thanks for info:worship: ! greetz , diemai:yay: -
I have a similar(little smaller) commercial lure , the wings there are of feathers , .......I guess , that your baits are superior due to the flash your wing material provides ! very nice lures:yes: , ..........greetz , diemai:yay: -
If you use these to attract walleyes , how large would your muskie baits get;) ? Very nice and welldone baits , anyway ,....... but for European taste a bit large for our local zander(very similar to walleye) , I'd say ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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An absolutely brilliant idea about those clacker fins , hats off to you:yay: ! I often think , that every aspect about lure design has been already there somewhen in the past ,........ but one can never tell , what breeds in ingenious minds;) ! just awesome:yes: , ........greetz , diemai -
Never saw such blades before , where'd you get them ? Makes your bait really look special:yes: ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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Somehow pretty unusual seeing these oldtime lure models in sucha modern state-of-the-art paint designs , ..........but they surely look just great , you've achieved a superbe job ! Welldone:yes: , .....greetz:yay: , diemai -
@ Them Muskie Lures I would not alter the angle of the lip to a more pointing forward one , ........I 've made a flat-sided lure recently like that , and it did not work . If your lure is of cedar , I suppose it still has enough remaining buoancy to put some weghts inside its belly , that would be the easiest way to achive a deeper dive . Looks to me , that it is pretty buoyant to only run at 6 to 8 feet . Additional weighting would most likely stabilize the wobble and also slow it down a bit , ........I have gained the experience , that lures with a moderate wobble also have a stronger tendency to run deeper that those ones having a pronounced wiggle . I would also taper the lip at it's base a little more , so that it would not protrude over the sides of the blank anymore , ........but leave its general width at tow eye position not to minor it's plane too much . This way you'd change the leverage force of the oncoming water pressure to work stronger on the lip portion below(ahead) of the tow eye , thus enabling the lure to dig down a little steeper , this would also enhance the wobble . I have learned , that a wider lip portion above(behind) the line tie most likely slows down action and diving performance . The length of lip in general should be sufficient for your goal of 8 to 12 feet , some weighting should give you the desired results , .........but if you want the lure to remain highly buoyant(to pop off obstacles) , you need to make the lip longer and also place the line tie a little lower towards the tip of lip , not to have the lure blow out . Try taping on some weights onto the belly of your lure and see what it does ! good luck , diemai:yay:
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I like this "gold dot" pattern in particular , ........off course I do like these cranks in general as well , ........just the right size for my tackle box:yes: ! Just a nice bunch , ...........greetz:yay: , diemai -
Just got back upstairs from my workshop ,.........PROBLEM SOLVED:) ! I managed to rig smaller splitrings , had to file some attachement holes a little wider to have the ridge at the sheet's ends a little thinner(still not less than 1,5mm) , so that I could slide over the new 1/4" dia. rings without having them significantly bent open . Now the play of the single sheets is sufficiently reduced , they can't twist against one another anymore ! greetz , diemai -
No copy , .........just a style of it's own ! Really nice patterns ! great job , ......greetz , diemai -
Thanks a lot for your kind words , guys:worship:, ..........but on my first tests yesterday I've found , that these jiggers don't act to my satisfaction . They turned out to have too much play in their connecting splitrings , thus they always slid out of their pack , the outer sheets turned in a way that the angled kinks are opposing one another:pissed:. Worst is , that also the hook would bind inbetween the sheets in unpredictable directions ! I will have to try to re-work them , try to rig smaller splitrings to minor the play . If smaller rings won't fit anymore , I'd have to rig some tubing or small washers onto the ring , so that the play can be limited . All in all I would probably have to re-design the construction , make them a little wider , so that the splitrings can't slide over the sideward edges anymore and have the single sheets twist against one another , ..............paramount is , that they do achieve the feature , that I've made them for ,...... as they do not snag up easily jigging them along the river bottom ! @ mark poulson , @ rofish The main problem is not having the hook snagged , but the entire lure(though hook-snagging might occur as well sometimes) . Check the two following videos ,..... they were taken in fall/winter at LOW TIDE ! You will clearly see those rocky embankments of the river , now visible at low tide . First video : http://www.bissclips.tv/bissclips_tv...erkaempft.html Second video : http://www.bissclips.tv/such-ergebnis/neue-zuerst.html?searchphrase=all&searchword=hamburg&submit=Suchen (a short link did not work for some reason , .......click on video No.5 on the list to open it up) Yesterday I was at some of the very same spots shown in there but the tide was extremely high due to stormy northwestern winds pushing the water into the river , all rock embankments and bases of the dykes were submerged , the water was about 15 feet higher as shown in the videos , and it had never reached its peak , when I got there to test these jiggers ,....... had to move onto a pontoon later not to have my feet wet , as all spots on the bank became flooded . You can also see in the video , that the hottest lures there are plastic shads on heavy leadheads , slowly tossed and jigged along the bottom , .........it takes quite a lot of concentration at high tide to keep them off the submerged rockpiles at the end of the retrieve ,...... as once the leadheads get stuck inbetween the rocks , they're gone , .......and it's most likely not the hooks getting snagged , but the leadheads! So I have thought about using elongated jigging spoons instead of leadheads , preferable of a more rigid material than lead . These run close to bottom as well , but don't bind inbetween the rocks of the embankment easily , just due to their shape and their material , that bounces off the rocks easier than lead as well . Had my jigger badly stuck into the submerged rockpiles for two times yesterday , but only took me some rod shaking to get it free again ,..... a leadhead would even fall deeper inside and could not be salvaged anymore(unless you wait for six hours until the tide has gone low again , ....not possible on strong northwesterns , anyway ,... the water won't go back that much) . These ways of protecting the hook , that you have described , Mark , are familiar to me ! I have a few lures utilizing these , but I guess , that they work better on your local bass than our pike and zander , as the bass obviously really do inhale their prey ,..... pike and zander often just grab it , .......as a result many missed hook-ups occur with such rigs . But thanks both for your input anyway ! @ fatfingers Actually it was not my idea ,..... about 10 years ago the German tackle manufacturer D.A.M. came out with a version of their famous "EffZett" spoon consisting of two sheets . I had only thought , that this "sandwich" design might work better on jigging spoons , as these would generate far mor noise on every impact as probably a swimming casting spoon would ? Check page 106 in the catalog , http://dam.tpk6.de/en/ , hope the link would work , otherwise try http://www.dam.de (English site version available) to load their online catalog . @ spoopa Jacob , it was quite tricky to rig the splitrings ,.... I lead them trough the sheets one by one , not through the entire pack at once ! This is the only way to keep the rings in good shape not to have them bent open too much . I will now even have to face more problems having to rig still smaller rings to minimize the single sheet's play against one another to overcome previously mentioned problem. Thanks again:worship: , guys , .......greetz:yay: , Dieter
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@ sinyo Thanks for your mini tutorial , could get very useful to me some day:yes: ! @ mark poulson I have made lures with Finnish style "saddle" lips , these don't have a plane base to glue into a slot as well . What I actually did is cut a regular narrow lip slot under desired angle as usual and utilized my "Dremel" with a small 2 mm router bit to extend the lipslot's upper(forward) portions to accommodate the cupping of the lip . This way one can fit in the lip in quite firmly ,...... the epoxy glue will later fill up the gaps at the bottom side of the lip . greetz , Dieter:yay:
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@ Vodkaman One more year has passed , since this thread was opened , ....so once again , ....Happy Birthday to you , Dave , .........all the best , hopefully the present earth quake disaster hasn't affected you too much , ...........still have a nice day , though ! greetings , Dieter:yay:
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@ mark poulson ......save your time , Mark ,....... just checked them , they don''t have your requested sizes as well:( ! greetz , Dieter:yay:
