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Everything posted by diemai
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@ mark poulson Sorry , Mark ,... didn't know that it is not presently accessible, ........"Moore's Lures" also carries different lengths, but just the sizes , that clemmy has already mentioned ,....... not the ones , that you search for ! Probably you might be lucky at some muskie stuff suppliers like "Rollie and Helens Musky Shop" or "Pastika's"(sorry , don't have the exact web-adresses , try google those terms) . good luck , Dieter:yay:
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@ mark poulson I have a 2006 "Stamina's" catalog at hand , 1 1/8" .092 dia. stainless eyes(closed and open) are in there ! Please check their site(it's accessible here under "the resources/components" , on the left column) , whether they still stock them nowadays . good luck , Dieter:yay:
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Some two weeks ago I purchased table lever shears from a local supermarket special sale , it really seems to improve my sheet metal work in terms of faster and more accurate cutting , as not so much fine shaping by filing/grinding is required anymore . First lures , that I've cut out with these shears are these experimentals , that I have named "sandwich jiggers" . I intend to cast them from the bank of our local river "Elbe" and jig them back along the bottom , as jigging spoons rigged with single hooks do not snag up as often by far in that snaggy swim as plastics on leadheads do . Certainly it might be easier to cast such lures from lead , but these jiggers of several layers of sheet metal(copper and stainless steel) have the advantage of generating a moderate metallic clicking sound anytime they fall back on the bottom , maybe even on every flick of the rod . The lures are 80mm in length(without hooks) and weight approx. 35 grams , their reverse side is decorated the same way as the top side . Gonna cast them tomorrow for a first test ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ finfever Got the same problem ,..... PVC decking is not a very common material over here in Germany , would have to mailorder for it as well , ..........but I'd like to touch and feel the material before buying ! Good luck with your lure projects , .........greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ finfever Guess , that it won't be a matter of the size of a jointed swimbait in general , but of the sizes of each segment . Naturally , the longer the screw eyes shank , the better it will hold up , but certainly one is limited by lure dimensions . Also mounting screw eyes with their shanks located under an angle versus proposed pulling direction of a fish adds to their strength , also to epoxy them , not just twist them in . I have had bad experiences with brass screw eyes , these may easily snap off , when twisting them into hardwood , .......I go for stainless steel ones exclusively . So well ,...... the conclusion would be to choose your eye screws as long , as the lure designs dimemsions do permit , so you could achieve maximum strength , .........a good selection of stainless eye screws(sizes described) you can find here : Welcome to Moore's Lures good luck , diemai:yay: PS : Two coats sprayed on should do for some testing , no problem ,.........but you'd need to buff that coat later for priming , ......or if it does not adhere too well , sand it off again totally !
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A real nice fish on a tiny lure , scary view down it's open jaws:yes: ! Sometimes they go for small prey ,..... sometimes it's just their bite reflex getting them on the hook:yes: . I had already caught small pike on sweetcorn bait meant for carp ,...... when reeling it in , the pike grabbed it ! On one day last year pike bit off two chumming baskets from my wife's carp set-up whilst reeling in , ........I cast lures same time , but they would not take them ..........funny sometimes ......! greetz , Dieter:yay:
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How much does painting and topcoating add to weight?
diemai replied to mainbutter's topic in Hard Baits
If I balance f.e. a slow sinking or even suspending glider jerkbait , I need to have it's back still slightly sticking out in the testing water bucket(with hooks and leader attached) , when at first taping on the weights to find out about their size and location . When finally embedding them into the lure , the drilled out material , glue and and also paint and topcoats will render the lure heavier in the end , so this way I could achieve my aim , though it is always hard to predict , also depends on the density of wood used . Far easier to achieve a fast sink bait . greetz , diemai:yay: -
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@ bluegrasslover ....funny ,........ I have the idea for such a lure on my mind for a long time now , have gathered a few bottle corks from workmates(I've packed up on booze) , caps and also screw-on softdrink caps already , ..........but never put it to practice . Grew the idea , after I've met an angler at a pond , saying that he was unemployed and doesn't have too much money for lures or building material and components . I'm also thinking of trying to make it to dive a bit by cutting the deeper screw-on plastic caps at an angle to make up for a kinda cupped diving vane , the two shanks of the linetie and maybe an epoxied screw would hold it in place with the longer portion of the "lip" downward . I wonder , whether the guy would be getting a lot of orders for more than 5 bucks per lure , as this appears to be a typical low cost and small effort homemade . Anyway , thanks for posting , .........very interesting:yes: ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ bollieca84 Just working on some lure blanks , took some shots of their thru-wire construction , ......maybe this helps a bit ? Feel free to post , if you've got more questions ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ Rofish Off course I see point in your statements , a rattle placed away from the pivot point of a lure's "X"ing wobble is more likely to work , but also more likely to take the lure out of balance . I did not notice , that your lures are that small ,...... talkin'bout mine with rattles inside I refered to a body width of at least 20 mm , ........certainly you won't have space enough for longer "2ball" rattles on your smaller lures . Concerning rattle testing , .......I always do it in my bath tub , the water inside and it's bowl shape amplify the sound , and I guess , that this would be more like the fish outdoors might sense it , too:? ??? greetz:yay: , Dieter
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@ rofish My homemade rattles of brass tubing always have two steelballs inside , during a test I have once found out , that these provide more noise compared to just one or even three balls inside ! Probably you should mount your rattles to a differnt kinda lure , one with a more sideward rolling action , ........I have never had problems with rattles not working , if located at about the center of gravity ,...........but I guess , that your lures are more subtle than mine , too ? good luck , Dieter
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@ Shmang Can't you shorten the bigger ones ? Sounds like your baits are pretty small , maybe you'd be lucky downloading the catalog of Welcome to Moore's Lures , there is a size chart of lips in there(though most likely bigger ones , just a few small) , problem would only be , to size the PDF file correctly on the screen , so that you could have a direct comparison . good luck , diemai:yay:
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@ brendandrage My US supplier for components is Welcome to Moore's Lures , small amounts available , but offers rebate on bulk . greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ rofish Make them about 1/3 to 1/2 of body width wider at about 1/3 to 2/5 the length from the nose , off course you also need to taper the body down the tail and nose . Also try to round off(taper) the belly a little more than the back . This way the body would gain more sideward stability and also buoancy , thus you can put more ballast to help it swim upright all of the time . Also place the rattle at thickest part of body , possibly on center line(where the lateral line would be) or even slighly below(towards belly) , if possible . good luck , diemai:yay:
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@ bassrecord .....a very true word by Mr.Berra , ........so let's wait and see;) ! greetz:yay: , Dieter
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@ bassrecord I must admit , that I haven't followed the proceed of that case anymore , but thanks for the info anyway , John.........so probably that fish might still be recognized as world record after a final decision by the IGFA ? Thanks:yay: , Dieter
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@ spoopa Sorry for little off topic ,........but I'd always mount hooks for testing as well not to get a false result , especially on smaller lures . If during closing time or in a pond , where fishing is not allowed , I'd just rig some papertclips or a piece of wire instead;) ! greetz:yay: , Dieter
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@ RayburnGuy I have recently refurbished a plastic lure , that I had accidentally recovered from it's wet grave from under a bridge . As it had water inside , I had to get off all paint to find out , where the leak was , .....I have used my "Dremel" with a very fine grade bristled brass brush chucked , it was time consuming , but I got most paint off , down to the plastic . On some spots only down to the primer , as I did not brush too hard not to overheat finally and damage the scale texture . Only roughening up this way should still be easier and less dangerous for the texture , I guess ? That particular lure is somewhere amongst my recent gallery uploads , I guess , ....I had plated it with aluminium tape to additionally close the small leaks at the seam between the two plastic halves . good luck:yay: , diemai
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@ jrhopkins Had that happen on bare wood(only temporary laquered)crankbaits as well whilst testing them in a local canal . And in fact I have read in many publications , that it would be the action and/or the skills of the angler to work his lure attractively rather than it's color that finally cause the fish to bite that lure . But on the other hand I also won't trust a shiny silver polished spoon in gin clear water , I'd surely tie on one of tarnished brass or copper:huh: ! If I'd hazard a guess , it would be 70% on action and 30% on color , maybe even 75% versus 25% ,........ but still the percentage is still too high to be denied in my opinion:? . As far , as detailing in color patterns goes , I have an old US book "The Complete Book Of Lurecraft" by Russ Mohney , there is an interesting opinion in there : It states as much as it would not be neccessary to have a lure patterned to the finest detail of the real thing , just impressions of these would be fairly enough . There are three pattern variations mentioned , described as "realistic"(finest detailing and resemblance) , "representative"(still quite detailed , but not to the highest grade of realism) and finally "impressionistic"(just sporting the contrasts of f.e. frog ,-and perch patterns ,..... a base color and stripes or spots over it) . I quote a few sentences from that book chapter : "We can achieve the proper contrast in a lure by learning to use color combinations that produce definite contrast patterns when applied . It doesn't matter whether the lure is realistic , representative , or an impression - as long as the proper contrast appears in the pattern . In this example , we have painted a "frog" finish and a "perch" finish in all three styles(means on three equal lures) . It is easy to see(there are sketches shown in the book) that we have enhanced the contrast on all of them in the same way . In pratice , all the three lures work about the same" . good luck:yay: , Dieter
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