diemai

Thanks for all your comments , guys , much appreciated:worship: ! @ Vodkaman Made another one today with a differently cupped first section , just to see how that one would act . If I'd have a change next week to get to a certain swim , I'll try making a short video there , ......there are some long pontoon platforms in there , perfect for taking lures in the water just by walking alongside . @ mark poulson Gee , Mark , I haven't thought about such before , .....it could work ! Need to think of an easy way to connect the parts 90

@ gunnie3035 I agree , that part of the problem is the flat bottom , it counterworks any initial rolling of the body , that might get a sufficient wobble and tail swing going . Have you also tried to mount a longer lip(but not as wide as the thickest body part) , it should cause more leverage around the tow eye and maybe kick your lure to finally wiggle ? good luck:yay: , diemai

@ mainbutter I've caught my PB pike on a homemade crankbait , I sometimes manage to design a lure completely suiting the conditions at certain waters , that I fish , two good reasons for me to build lures ! And in our local heavily pressured waters a proven and maybe also unusual home design is superior to commercials , as many a fish can already read the brand name on them:lol: . greetz , diemai:yay:

Okay , folks , Here are the three pictures displaying the play of the sections against one another ! thanks for looking:yes: , ....greetz , diemai

Hi , folks , You might have seen in the gallery , that I'm into spoon making quite a bit recently , ........and comments by spoopa and Vodkaman got me thinking..........! spoopa had suggested making a jointed spoon , which I assumed to be impossible , .....Vodkaman said , that he thought at first glance , that the lure in my video "Clicking Mouse Spoon" was a swimbait , due to its swimming action ! Took all this into consideration , did some sketching two weeks ago , ......about 10 days ago I have made the production templates and finally yesterday at work I have shaped the first prototype displayed in here , bath tub tested it straightaway last night after work . To my surprise it worked quite well:) , I had expected it to have no action at all but just pull straight upward without any wobble or only a very moderate one . But the deeply cupped front section of 1,5 mm stainless steel sheet(all rear sections 1,0 mm) has an extremely strong body roll from one side to the other , even more than 180

@ mainbutter Good luck with it:yay: .........and don't forget to post a picture in the gallery , once you're completely done ! If your first should not work properly for some reason , and you'd need questions answered , you may also post a pic in the forums , as that would be according to the site rules ! greetz , diemai:yay:

@ BobP Thanks for your hints , ....actually I haven't tried these twisted wire eyes before , but I see point in your arguments about them holding up well , also I like the advantage about sliding splitrings over thinner wired eyes , especially when using smaller rings on smaller lures . Should have known years ago , ........by now I still have a stock of a couple of hundreds of different eye screws , all mailordered from the US , as they are available in Europe for only a few years now . Anyway , I have tried homemade wire eyes , but these are a little different to the twisted ones and also more elaborate to do , ........on a nail vertically chucked in a vise I'd first bend an eye to a piece of wire , after wind one of it's shanks around the other one a few times , leaving some space inbetween each winding , so that it would virtually also look like a kinda thread of an eye screw , only a lot thicker . These I twist in snugly into bores in the wooden lurebodies , that I had previously filled with epoxy glue . Made a pull test on these eyes once , ......at 50 lbs. my fishing scales , that I used for pulling , got spoiled due to a sudden release , as the connecting cord snapped , ....but the eyes , though being pulled linear(aligned to their bore) , did not move a bit ! Anyway , I might give these twisted ones a go some day , really sounds easy and I could save the money for eyescrews in future , ..........how do you set them in , ......also twist them in snugly or you make the bore little larger so that you could just push the twisted shank into the hole without any friction ? Off course the hole needs to be thoroughly filled with glue before , as only applying glue to the shank , it would wipe off again when inserting the eye and not hold up well . greetz , diemai:yay:

@ 68KingFisher If I've converted properly , that wire is of about 0,5 mm thickness , which is way too thin for wireforms inside of wooden baits , ......danderson has already mentioned the reasons ! The only SSt wire of smaller diameter , that I can imagine to still work out without bending constantly would be the wire used in dental laboratories to make braces , .........I wore one as a kid , .....and this stuff definately is very rigid . But I guess , it was also a bit thicker than yours ???? But I use special fishing wire of sucha diameter for making single wire leaders for smaller gliders and topwaters ! good luck , diemai:yay:

@ mainbutter I set in my screw eyes with epoxy glue ,..... I'd extend the pilot holes to little less than 1/4" deep to a little more than screw eye shank dia. , ........I'd smear some glue onto the eyes shank , twist it in ,..... so a kinda "glue plug" evolves in that hole extension providing added strength(wipe off overflow) . As far as I'm concerned , basswood is similar to abachewood(often use the latter for crankbaits) in density , and I won't have no worries about these glued eyes holding up even against the average 30" pike . greetz , diemai:yay: