diemai

@ MattDean As uptown says it ,....... it just came to my mind , that I have caught more pike on flat bodied gliders rather than round ones , though I use the latter more frequent , since they do cast longer(most likely bank-fishing). Is this because of the sometimes performed "tremble" of their bodies , as descending ? Or a "wave" pattern , as they dart forward , or simply because of a bigger silhouette and causing more disturbance in the water ? Do you know the site Lurebuilding 101 ? A Dutch site(English version available)with plenty of info on glider jerkbaits , also a couple of building plans and describtions . good luck:yay: , diemai

@ MattDean I can surely confirm the statements above:yes: ,...... one more thing , that I had found out about topwater gliders is , that if the weight is placed at the very tail end , the glide is shorter as if the ballast was placed a bit more forward . I guess , this is , because that rear weight causes the lure rather more to dash towards 90

@ 12spot I assume , that you are talkin'bout that certain diving pullbait with the metal tail fin . Well ,..... sorry , can't provide the requested images , but I have seen that cotter pin arrangement in an American Musky video(got some homebrew adaptions to the European video system from the end and mid 90's) before . As far as I remember:? , the cotter pin leads snugly through a center bore 90

@ shade_skyhi Check this out , you might find some answers in there : http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/17283-crankbait-lip-slot.html The more downward pointing towards 90

@ MuskyGary There is a tutorial about that very lure type in here , have you seen it already ? Couple of months ago , I had made two as well(to be seen somewhere in my gallery uploads) , I used 1 mm thick aluminium sheet for the lips , as the lures are quite small . If I would have made bigger ones , thus more voluminous and buoyant , I would have used 1,5 mm aluminium . I would not advise you to use ordinary steel sheet , it will definately rust sooner or later , any topcoat will come off , when the lure is bouncing the lake's bottom ocassionally . Only option would be stainless steel sheet , but it is hard to work on ,........0,5 mm you can still cut with shears , 1,0 mm + not anymore , you'd need to cut it with a saw ,........and 0,5 mm deforms too easily . Filing it to the final shape would take about at least twice as long as if it was aluminium . There is also a weight issue about steel , not suited for smaller lures , I suppose , .......never used it for diving bills , only making casting spoons from it . Saw some people using brass or copper sheet for diving bills as well , these are very heavy materials either ,..... I only saw small bills on "Rapala Original" type of baits , a big bill like on a "Bomber" would probably turn out too heavy and render the lure sinking:? ? good luck , diemai:yay:

@ silverdoctor Did you also come across this one ? Check videos containing in first post of the thread : http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hardbaits/15860-looks-that-simple-finnish-way.html greetz:yay: , diemai

Hi , folks , Just came across this on a German site , .........knowing that there are a lotta "bass loonies" around in here , I've thought I would share it : possible World Record Largemouth Bass caught by Deps Angler Manabu Kurita from Lake Biwa,Japan - Big Baitin

@ beekeeper Sorry , forgot it in my first post , ...........welcome to TU ! Thanks for your describtions on the working process , to me it sounds particulary interesting , how you sharpened the steel stock on your lathe with a Dremel , .......guess that you've held rotating sanding drums against the turning stock to shape it's point ? Actually I haven't yet tried to shape metal(or even steel) this way ,...........only thing I did is turning spinner bodies out of round brass stock on my lathe , but I used sawblades , files and sandpaper for it . greetz , diemai

@ sdsaw I am not into casting leadheads that much , but there was a time many years ago , that I've successfully used these kinda heads(shopbought ones) on local perch and zander(walleye) . But I've seen pictures of those molds ,.... and as far as I remember , the mold does not require to accept a BLADE size , but a certain SWIVEL size . The blades of these heads are usually pretty small , so they won't cause side-swimming due to torque , but this can be subject to trial and error to the tinkerer ,...... try rigging bigger sized blades as the recommended ones and see , what happens ,..........they might also hit the grub or skirt attached and thus not spin ? Willow blades won't generate as much torque , anyway . It is rather more important not to foul up the cast in swivel by painting and/or topcoating in the end:yes: ! greetz , diemai:yay:

@ beekeeper Not the wrong place , actually , ..........if you'd give some added explanations about how they're made;) ! These look quite professionally made , handy and safe:yes: , ..........frankly.... nice tools ! greetz:yay: , diemai

Not quite yet your birthday at this very hour , since I'm writing from another time zone east from you , but just read the anouncement on the site . Yet it did not indicate your age(would not be gentleman-like to ask such from a lady , anyway , I've heard) ,........ so I'm not quite sure , whether just to wish you to have a nice party or to wish you to remain in good health furthermore:huh: . Guess , I should wish you both ,...... all the best:yay: ! Congrats , Milia , ....and have a nice day:tipsy: ! greetz:yay: , diemai