diemai
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Everything posted by diemai
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Can't say it enough , ....I like these topwaters of yours , .......once I'm fed up with hammering spoons:lol: , this design is on my "must try" list:yes: . Also like the way , how you painted the mouth(gill) details on the underside chin of this bait:yes: . greetz , Dieter:yay: -
I've ever been wanting to try out this kinda shape of a spoon , since I had first seen similar in a tackle catalog , now I finally made it:) . Made a few blanks , some of these I intent to paint , just finished only two of them plain polished and annealed for a darker color ,..... also applied some reflective foil and eyes . Wanna throw them this weekend , can't wait to test'em outdoors;) . Just two days ago I had tested the first blank in my bath tub and the action looked promising , quickly shaped some more ,........compared to other spoon models it is rather deeply cupped . Usually a very deep cupping would cause a spoon to overturn and swim like an airfoil , just flutter up'n'down , but as it seems , the plain head portion changes the usual thing:? . On a slow retrieve it swims a bit tail-down gently rolling and wiggling around its lengthwise axis , but when increasing pace it gets to act wilder , darting sideward a bit and almost overturning , but yet doesn't ,........I guess , that a mixture of slow and fast retrieve and or a "drop-and-jerk" retrieve pattern would have the strongest appeal:? . The lure won't run too deep(unless letting it frequently drop to bottom) , since the plane head portion would always push it upward in the water column . greetz , diemai:yay: -
I've ever been wanting to try out this kinda shape of a spoon , since I had first seen similar in a tackle catalog , now I finally made it:) . Made a few blanks , some of these I intent to paint , just finished only two of them plain polished and annealed for a darker color ,..... also applied some reflective foil and eyes . Wanna throw them this weekend , can't wait to test'em outdoors;) . Just two days ago I had tested the first blank in my bath tub and the action looked promising , quickly shaped some more ,........compared to other spoon models it is rather deeply cupped . Usually a very deep cupping would cause a spoon to overturn and swim like an airfoil , just flutter up'n'down , but as it seems , the plain head portion changes the usual thing:? . On a slow retrieve it swims a bit tail-down gently rolling and wiggling around its lengthwise axis , but when increasing pace it gets to act wilder , darting sideward a bit and almost overturning , but yet doesn't ,........I guess , that a mixture of slow and fast retrieve and or a "drop-and-jerk" retrieve pattern would have the strongest appeal:? . The lure won't run too deep(unless letting it frequently drop to bottom) , since the plane head portion would always push it upward in the water column . greetz , diemai:yay: -
Turned out pretty well , .....innovative lure decoration ! greetz , diemai:yay: -
Makes me want to put it in the smoking bin:lol::lol: ,.........soooooo realistic look ! great topwater bait , .........greetz ,diemai -
These frogs are cute , .....very nice topwaters ! greetz , diemai:yay: -
@ rofish If you consider hammer and anvil , drillpress , saws and files and especially passion for the product as the perfect factory equipment , then .........yes , I do own one;) ! Thanks:yay: , Dieter -
Your work just ought to be admired:yes: ! So tiny and yet so neat and detailed;) ! Absolutely great lures:yes: ! greetz , diemai -
@ spoopa Jacob , same thing ocassionally happens to me with my own epoxy , I blame it on not having kept the mixing relation of 10:4 (resin:hardener) well . Another thing , that I've found out , that if starting to brush on that epoxy IMMEDIATELY after , say , two minutes of stirring it up in the mixing bin(I use small medication cups with "millilitres" divider marks) , on the first one or two lures the topcoat would tend to "de-mix" on the surface , leaving some spots uncovered . After having covered the entire batch of lures(most likely up to 8 smaller and/or 5 bigger ones)with one mix , I'd just put a little more epoxy on these first two and brush them all over again , the de-mixed coat is still wet enough for doing this . Now it would cover entirely , unless I'd have failed to keep the correct mixing relation . Since this only happens to the first lures , I assume , that it is neccessary to let the epoxy mix set for a while after stirring , but this would shorten the processing time , so I'm alright with the way described above . Some other folks say , that finger prints or other untidy spots on the lure could cause this problem of having certain spots uncovered , .......there is a thread about it somewhere in here , but I don't remember its title . good luck , Dieter:yay:
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@ mark poulson Just cast and retrieve , Mark , ocassional pauses to let the spoon drop to bottom again and variations of retrieve speed , little twitches , etc .....! Just try it out in clear water at boatside to see , how it would act ,.... everything works , from a slow , moderate wiggle to a short speed dash to break out sideward . It has one drawback , which is that sometimes(approx. every 10th cast) the hook tangles into the wire form(the small "D" shaped limiter surrounding the closure tubing) . This obviously does not happen whilst casting , but as letting the lure drop back to bottom the hook drops into the spoons cupping with its points pointing to the rear , so sometimes they tangle this way . But I also see this as the reason , that this lure model never did snag up as often as other spoon models , .....I have only lost one of these so far , and I frequently do tie them on ! The foil cut-outs I have marked with a cardboard template on the backing of the foil and cut out with scissors . That cardboard template I have made after the production marker template of aluminium sheet ,...... I just made another marker line a bit to the inside of that aluminium's template outline to achieve the smaller template for the foil . greetz , Dieter;) -
@ bbduc Thanks a lot for your kind words , Bob:yes: ! Thank God I don't suffer from those "refrigerator problems" , since my wife fishes as well(more with bait rather than lures) , so she doesn't mind about some living creatures in the fridge ,....... provided that they are safely locked in their boxes and wrapped a few times in freezer bags :lol:. She's taking care about that , since she believes , that I'd let them escape , .......and I like it that way:yes: ! greetz , Dieter:yay:
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Thanks for your kind words , guys ,.... much appreciated ! @ spoopa Maybe I did not find the right words , Jacob ,.... sorry ! I haven't tried powder painting spoons yet(this kind of powder paint to bake on metal with a heat source) . Did it years ago with some leadheads in our kitchen stove , had a helluva trouble with my old gal because of it , since in her opinion the roasted pork later tasted somewhat chemical:huh: . For a nightglow color I'd buff the metal surface with 40 grit , prime white and apply neon yellow , both with rattlecans . After I'd brush on epoxy(previously I also used 2K automotive clear laquer , but my supplier doesn't stock it anymore)and sprinkle the glow pigment powder onto the wet epoxy . After 24 hrs curing I'd give them a shot with clear paint , also from rattlecans , ......this is to bind all loose powder particles . Now I can first spray on any paint patterns or topcoat with one or two layers of epoxy already , just as desired . On top of the final epoxy coat I have also brushed two more layers of modelling dope , as it still cures a little harder than my epoxy brand . I applied the glitter chips the same way , only on the bare metal , without any prior paint layers ,,,,,,,, but to bind them finally , I put on another epoxy layer , not rattle can clear , since I want a thicker coating also to get into the spaces inbetween the single glitter particles . Depending on the grit size of the glitter flakes , you might need to apply 2 to 4 coats to achieve a reasonably smooth surface , so that stick-on lure eyes would bond sufficiently . The eyes off course also require to get sealed off with one or two layers epoxy . Put on modelling dope on these as well for a harder surface . The darker spoon third from top has been polished and after heated to red glow with a soldering torch to get it into its blue/brown/purple dark color . With the stainless steel sheet , that I gather from my works scrabyard , this works pretty well , but I guess , that different alloys might also loose their rustproof features(happend to me with some table spoons) , ...this one doesn't ! The scale foil applied is a flexible one from http://www.mooreslures.com , this kind of foil does not have a protective layer and thus requires to be coated with some kind of topgloss , in this case again epoxy and modelling dope . The advantage of this foil is , that it can be applied onto moderately curved surfaces without too many wrinkles , it stretches within to a certain grade without any memory effect . The bottom spoon was simply polished and covered with an ordinary reflective foil cut-out . Since this foil doesn't stretch for curved surface , I made some scissor cuts along its circumference , leading from outside to center , these are to avoid wrinkling . At some cuts the foil is overlapping a bit , but it works quite well this way . @ now thats a fish Can't sleep much any more , it's true ,.. five to six hrs maximum , the years of shift work take their toll , I guess ? @ mark poulson I still have a real job , Mark , but we do not have much to do ! Due to the financial crisis orders have decreased about 50% , we are doing 4 to 15 workdays short time work per month , depending on which branch of the company . The owners are also taking chance on the economical breakdown to split up the firm into three independed ones , do some out-sourcing of products to the Far East and thus quit about 250 out of 1100 jobs and certainly give the guys+gals remaining new contracts afterwards containing worse conditions . There are still negotiations with our trade union taking place , but I guess , by the end of the year the'd get it fixed . So , less work at the moment , ...I can take a chance to work on my spoons there , whilst my machines are running , ...who knows , whether I'd still be there in a year's time ? Thanks again , ...greetz , Dieter
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Here is another knock-off model of a discontinued Finnish lure named "Finnbait Turbo" . I have swapped up to three dozens of these with Finnish friends , and they did well with them ,.... I have also caught pike and zander(walleye) on these spoon models . Pictured are two size versions , the medium and the large one ,.........don't have their exact sizes in mind right now , must be about slightly larger than 3" and 4" . The lure has a "wave" swimming pattern and generates a gentle clicking sound with its front splitring sliding up and down the front slot , as the lure rocks left and right . Suited for shallower water to medium depths , as it has a little tendency to rise up on retrieve , it is hard to fish it close or at bottom without frequent drop-downs . greetz , diemai:yay:
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Here is another knock-off model of a discontinued Finnish lure named "Finnbait Turbo" . I have swapped up to three dozens of these with Finnish friends , and they did well with them ,.... I have also caught pike and zander(walleye) on these spoon models . Pictured are two size versions , the medium and the large one ,.........don't have their exact sizes in mind right now , must be about slightly larger than 3" and 4" . The lure has a "wave" swimming pattern and generates a gentle clicking sound with its front splitring sliding up and down the front slot , as the lure rocks left and right . Suited for shallower water to medium depths , as it has a little tendency to rise up on retrieve , it is hard to fish it close or at bottom without frequent drop-downs . greetz , diemai:yay: -
Some more from my present batch , .......the ones with the beads attached are knock-offs of a famous Finnish lure named "R -
Some more from my present batch , .......the ones with the beads attached are knock-offs of a famous Finnish lure named "R -
Some more from my present batch , .......the ones with the beads attached are knock-offs of a famous Finnish lure named "R -
During the past weeks I've been busy with quite a few different casting spoon models made from stainless steel sheet . Most of those models I had uploaded before , but on many of these present ones I have tried some different plating techniques like applying glitter flakes , spray paint and nightglow powder . Some are also only polished , annealed and/or decorated with reflective foil . Anyway , before painting/plating I had the undersides polished , since I was aware , that paint dust , glitter chips and/or epoxy would get to stick there during working , so this way it is very easy to remove these after all final topcoating of the topside is done ,.... nothing would adhere well to a polished steel surface ! Just used my fingernails to scrape off all remainders and afterwards wiped over with a metal polish detergent . To plate the topsides , I buffed them thoroughly with 40 grit metal sandpaper to assure proper adhesion of the paint primer coats and/or the first epoxy coat to bind the glitter flakes . Prior to sprinkling on the nightglow powder(also on a epoxy layer) the spoons have to be painted in bright neon yellow , this assures the best effect of it , sprinkled on bare metal it would look a bit more dull , but still don't lose its glow abilities . I have tried different templates for spraying , some worked out well , some not as good , though . Anyway , need to practise more , working again on some more spoon blanks , want to do some more glitter versions . Shown here are my proven "DinnerBell" spoon , and my "Mouse Spoon" , large and smaller version . greetz , diemai:yay: -
During the past weeks I've been busy with quite a few different casting spoon models made from stainless steel sheet . Most of those models I had uploaded before , but on many of these present ones I have tried some different plating techniques like applying glitter flakes , spray paint and nightglow powder . Some are also only polished , annealed and/or decorated with reflective foil . Anyway , before painting/plating I had the undersides polished , since I was aware , that paint dust , glitter chips and/or epoxy would get to stick there during working , so this way it is very easy to remove these after all final topcoating of the topside is done ,.... nothing would adhere well to a polished steel surface ! Just used my fingernails to scrape off all remainders and afterwards wiped over with a metal polish detergent . To plate the topsides , I buffed them thoroughly with 40 grit metal sandpaper to assure proper adhesion of the paint primer coats and/or the first epoxy coat to bind the glitter flakes . Prior to sprinkling on the nightglow powder(also on a epoxy layer) the spoons have to be painted in bright neon yellow , this assures the best effect of it , sprinkled on bare metal it would look a bit more dull , but still don't lose its glow abilities . I have tried different templates for spraying , some worked out well , some not as good , though . Anyway , need to practise more , working again on some more spoon blanks , want to do some more glitter versions . Shown here are my proven "DinnerBell" spoon , and my "Mouse Spoon" , large and smaller version . greetz , diemai:yay: -
During the past weeks I've been busy with quite a few different casting spoon models made from stainless steel sheet . Most of those models I had uploaded before , but on many of these present ones I have tried some different plating techniques like applying glitter flakes , spray paint and nightglow powder . Some are also only polished , annealed and/or decorated with reflective foil . Anyway , before painting/plating I had the undersides polished , since I was aware , that paint dust , glitter chips and/or epoxy would get to stick there during working , so this way it is very easy to remove these after all final topcoating of the topside is done ,.... nothing would adhere well to a polished steel surface ! Just used my fingernails to scrape off all remainders and afterwards wiped over with a metal polish detergent . To plate the topsides , I buffed them thoroughly with 40 grit metal sandpaper to assure proper adhesion of the paint primer coats and/or the first epoxy coat to bind the glitter flakes . Prior to sprinkling on the nightglow powder(also on a epoxy layer) the spoons have to be painted in bright neon yellow , this assures the best effect of it , sprinkled on bare metal it would look a bit more dull , but still don't lose its glow abilities . I have tried different templates for spraying , some worked out well , some not as good , though . Anyway , need to practise more , working again on some more spoon blanks , want to do some more glitter versions . Shown here are my proven "DinnerBell" spoon , and my "Mouse Spoon" , large and smaller version . greetz , diemai:yay:
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Interesting and yet simple design ,...... turned on a lathe , I bet . And I guess , due to their line tie/lip configuration , lip size and angle they won't roll too much around their lengthwise axis on retrieve ? I really like the design , some good input for me:yes: ! greetz:yay: , diemai -
@ LaPala .....but sucha wheel would only work on a spoon , that rides topwater , submerged it would not spin , I suppose ,...... since the current would engage onto to both sides up and down the center axis ????? I don't mind about making sucha rattle construction , I'd find soldering or welding more elaborate , don't have welding gear , anyway . Also thought about rigging a plastic jig rattle with a simple wire loop , but these are not that loud , I guess ? greetz:yay: , diemai -
Thanks a lot for kind words , people:worship: ! @ LaPala In fact I have been thinking over a similar thing before , but never put it to practise , since it would be quite an added work effort : I intend to make an elongated slot crosswise the spoon , with a wire piece through its lengthwise center and one or two solid metal beads rigged onto it , .......so as the spoons rocks and wiggles , the beads would slide up and down the slot generating a clicking noise , as they hit the ends of the slot and one another . Problem is , that such "piercings" MUST be made , after the spoon's cupping and curvature is finally done , and at this stage one cannot fix it in a vise anymore , also it is headache to work on stainless steel with hand tools , but yet small hobby router bits for a "Dremel" would certainly be beyond their limits with SSt as well . But I already have an idea on my mind about a wooden jig , so I can cut the slot on my hobby routing machine or extend a row of holes to a slot by filing ,....... to make it easier , I would make the spoon blank out of brass sheet . @ spoopa Remember , if you need any help or advice about making spoons , call back in:yes: ! You're sounding very passionate about making spoons;) , ....and passion is , what you need for it , because metals can be tough to work on , especially stainless steel . The holes for the beads I have furnished with a conical drill bit especially designed for drilling through metal sheets , .......ordinary drill bits are poblematic , since especially the larger ones tend to bite into the material , so you can't hold the blanks anymore(also can't easily fix 'em for drilling , so I just hold them on a piece of wood on a drill press) , which can get a bit hazardous for the unexperienced . Also the holes tend to run off center or become not quite round this way , in every way it is better to drill multiple times , getting sligthly larger time after time . Thanks again guys:worship: , I really appreciate you comments:yes: ! greetz , Dieter:yay:
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Even before I read the describtion to your lures , I knew , that you are from Australia , your lures are made in that significant "Aussie" style , that I got to know and got to like on http://www.lureandmore.com . They turned out very well , and I am sure that there are more great ones to come , now that you are getting serious about luremaking;) ! keep on carvin':yes: ,....... greetz, diemai:yay: -
@ Sonny.Barile Glad to hear , that it obviously worked out for you ! @ Lincoya That alcohol is a good idea , as it seems . I see much sense in it to be superior over water in terms of a faster process . greetz , diemai:yay:
