diemai
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Everything posted by diemai
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@ cadman Thanks a lot for sharing picture and knowledge ,.........the pic just displays a kinda bait , that I imagined , how about it would look like:yes: ! greetz, diemai:yay:
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I have had this one laying around unpainted in my shop for almost two years now , so finally I got done with it ! Made of halfround pinewood dowels , glued together with waterproof wood glue with an internal harness inbetween the two halves . For flush and steady positioning of the halves during shaping the lure I had temporary tacked them together with some toothpicks acting as pins through crosswise bores ,.....these pins I also utilized when finally bonding the two parts . The harness I had lead through the upper portion of the lure , so that I would gain space for weight holes at the belly to balance the lure blank after its final assembly . Now it has two weights fore and aft the rear belly hook hanger , this might enhance its casting performance , which is usually quite problematic on this type of lure due to the big metal lip . Could not check for diving depth at my pond-tests yesterday ,since that pond is quite shallow , but being quite buoyant , I assume the lure to dive only 8 to maximum 11 feet . It has a pronounced body roll and wiggle , that obviously causes quite a stirrup in the water . I hand-painted the lure with "Revell" modelmaking enamels , trying to achieve a "zander"(walleye) pattern , topcoated with two of each layers of acrylic clear , epoxy and finally modelling dope clear . greetz , diemai:yay: -
I have had this one laying around unpainted in my shop for almost two years now , so finally I got done with it ! Made of halfround pinewood dowels , glued together with waterproof wood glue with an internal harness inbetween the two halves . For flush and steady positioning of the halves during shaping the lure I had temporary tacked them together with some toothpicks acting as pins through crosswise bores ,.....these pins I also utilized when finally bonding the two parts . The harness I had lead through the upper portion of the lure , so that I would gain space for weight holes at the belly to balance the lure blank after its final assembly . Now it has two weights fore and aft the rear belly hook hanger , this might enhance its casting performance , which is usually quite problematic on this type of lure due to the big metal lip . Could not check for diving depth at my pond-tests yesterday ,since that pond is quite shallow , but being quite buoyant , I assume the lure to dive only 8 to maximum 11 feet . It has a pronounced body roll and wiggle , that obviously causes quite a stirrup in the water . I hand-painted the lure with "Revell" modelmaking enamels , trying to achieve a "zander"(walleye) pattern , topcoated with two of each layers of acrylic clear , epoxy and finally modelling dope clear . greetz , diemai:yay: -
Another experimental , that I was eager to try out , named it that way after its "flying saucer" shape:lol: ! It is lathe-turned from pinewood , approx. 40 X 20 millimetres , ......has a plastic jig rattle placed in a crosswise bore through the center . When first tub-testing the unpainted blank for the weighting I had already found out , that it is probably impossible to get this lure-shape to dive , since due to its body shape it lacks lengthwise stability or "grip" in the water , so it can only either be furnished as a wake bait or a sinker. If a sinker , it vibrates at quite a high frequency on retrieve . But I decided for a floating lure , embedded the keel weight in a crosswise bore as close as possible to the outer belly rim of the body , so that about 1/4 of the body heigth would still stick out at rest . Should have used a little more weight , since as I weighted the lure , I taped the weight to the outer belly , .....now , that it is placed a little more towards the center , it lost a bit of its ability to keep the lure swimming upright on retrieve . As a result on a faster retrieve it looses a bit of stability and starts to "hunt" sidewards , but soon tracks back to straight course and its rythmic wiggle . No such problem on a slow retrieve ! I really have my fun trying such sometimes weird designs:yes: ! greetz, diemai:yay: -
Another experimental , that I was eager to try out , named it that way after its "flying saucer" shape:lol: ! It is lathe-turned from pinewood , approx. 40 X 20 millimetres , ......has a plastic jig rattle placed in a crosswise bore through the center . When first tub-testing the unpainted blank for the weighting I had already found out , that it is probably impossible to get this lure-shape to dive , since due to its body shape it lacks lengthwise stability or "grip" in the water , so it can only either be furnished as a wake bait or a sinker. If a sinker , it vibrates at quite a high frequency on retrieve . But I decided for a floating lure , embedded the keel weight in a crosswise bore as close as possible to the outer belly rim of the body , so that about 1/4 of the body heigth would still stick out at rest . Should have used a little more weight , since as I weighted the lure , I taped the weight to the outer belly , .....now , that it is placed a little more towards the center , it lost a bit of its ability to keep the lure swimming upright on retrieve . As a result on a faster retrieve it looses a bit of stability and starts to "hunt" sidewards , but soon tracks back to straight course and its rythmic wiggle . No such problem on a slow retrieve ! I really have my fun trying such sometimes weird designs:yes: ! greetz, diemai:yay: -
Another experimental , that I was eager to try out , named it that way after its "flying saucer" shape:lol: ! It is lathe-turned from pinewood , approx. 40 X 20 millimetres , ......has a plastic jig rattle placed in a crosswise bore through the center . When first tub-testing the unpainted blank for the weighting I had already found out , that it is probably impossible to get this lure-shape to dive , since due to its body shape it lacks lengthwise stability or "grip" in the water , so it can only either be furnished as a wake bait or a sinker. If a sinker , it vibrates at quite a high frequency on retrieve . But I decided for a floating lure , embedded the keel weight in a crosswise bore as close as possible to the outer belly rim of the body , so that about 1/4 of the body heigth would still stick out at rest . Should have used a little more weight , since as I weighted the lure , I taped the weight to the outer belly , .....now , that it is placed a little more towards the center , it lost a bit of its ability to keep the lure swimming upright on retrieve . As a result on a faster retrieve it looses a bit of stability and starts to "hunt" sidewards , but soon tracks back to straight course and its rythmic wiggle . No such problem on a slow retrieve ! I really have my fun trying such sometimes weird designs:yes: ! greetz, diemai:yay: -
Being inspired some time ago by a thread here on TU I have furnished this prototype of a curved glider jerkbait , made of beechwood , approx. 4 1/2" long . It is weighted fore and aft to sink at about 1 foot per second in a little tail-down level , it always swings over with its curved side upward after hitting the water(both body ends pointing downward) . This way it virtually descends swimming a bit away from the angler . I have pond-tested it thoroughly yesterday ,.... it has quite a different action , to what I am used to ,..... but yet perfectly resembles an injured fish in distress , that tries to get to swim again , but soon falls back in weakness and agony . On subtle twitches it would first dart a little bit upward but very soon it changes direction to dig down , same time sideward(next twitch it darts to opposite side , so virtually "walks-the-dog"). When twitching a little harder . it also makes these moves , but won't dart sideward that much , just swing around belly up and dart upward ,........when twitching still harder , it would "do -the-corkscrew" . When furnishing all those different twitching levels and pausing inbetween to have the bait to fall back , it gets to its ful swimming actionl potential . Doesn't also leader-tangle that much on its moves ! Anyway , I am in good hope , that it would produce some pike for me , and in that case I would surely lauch some more in different colors as well . greetz , diemai:yay: -
Being inspired some time ago by a thread here on TU I have furnished this prototype of a curved glider jerkbait , made of beechwood , approx. 4 1/2" long . It is weighted fore and aft to sink at about 1 foot per second in a little tail-down level , it always swings over with its curved side upward after hitting the water(both body ends pointing downward) . This way it virtually descends swimming a bit away from the angler . I have pond-tested it thoroughly yesterday ,.... it has quite a different action , to what I am used to ,..... but yet perfectly resembles an injured fish in distress , that tries to get to swim again , but soon falls back in weakness and agony . On subtle twitches it would first dart a little bit upward but very soon it changes direction to dig down , same time sideward(next twitch it darts to opposite side , so virtually "walks-the-dog"). When twitching a little harder . it also makes these moves , but won't dart sideward that much , just swing around belly up and dart upward ,........when twitching still harder , it would "do -the-corkscrew" . When furnishing all those different twitching levels and pausing inbetween to have the bait to fall back , it gets to its ful swimming actionl potential . Doesn't also leader-tangle that much on its moves ! Anyway , I am in good hope , that it would produce some pike for me , and in that case I would surely lauch some more in different colors as well . greetz , diemai:yay: -
Every batch of yours turns out better looking than the previous one everytime:yes: ! welldone again , Mark:yes: ! greetz , Dieter:yay: -
How about a fat one-meter+ pike grabbing it:huh: ? Would that change your mind ? welldone bait:yes: , .......greetz, Dieter:yay: -
@ Vodkaman Do you think about annealing the pins or the SSt sheets , or both ? I do not find it neccessary , don't even know , whether it would work out with brass . The hinge parts are not that hard to shape , and I do not think , that annealing would have prevented the above described issue about the lid breaking off , anyway ! It just happened faster , as I thought , because the steel sheet is that thin ,.......any metal would brake sooner or later , if you bent it back and forth at the same spot , only some do faster than others , depending on material and thickness.........and this is just too thin , just underestimated it ! greetz , diemai
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ATTENTION ! I am very sorry and also embarassed to hereby announce , that the above described CLOSED HINGE construction does not work out the way , that I have thought it would:( ! As I was going to finally assemble the sections today and tried to bend close the top lid of the CLOSED HINGE sleeve , its kink became too much weakened , so that it probably would fall off later , when fishing the lure:( ! So I decided to break off both lids , file smooth/carefully break inner edges of sleeves and utilize the OPEN HINGE method assembling the flanged tubing pin ! I am very sorry , if I should have caused any inconvinience to anybody , probably I should have waited publishing my tutorial until I would have been entirely done with this new design(for me) to gain those final experiences ! I much apologize:worship: , ....greetz , diemai
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I like this irregular speckled pattern:yes: , .......did you brush it ? greetz , diemai:yay: -
@ cadman Still a brilliant idea ........! I also wonder , that I have never seen it in any pictures or catalogs ,...... spinnerbaits are not very popular over here , though almost every tackleshop considering itself to be a good one carries a handful of models nowadays . You described the subject the right way in your post before("same page") , at least this is , how I understand it as well ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ Vodkaman As far , as I understand , it does not and neccessarely does not need to , a fluttering action is enough ! Don't know much about such baits:huh: , anyway , only build and fish them on ocassion . greetz, diemai:yay:
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@ cadman Very interesting idea about rigging the lower blade with a swivel as well , might get back to it for my own tinkering one day . Thanks for the input:yes: ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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These turned out really nice:yes: , I like those old time style lures ! welldone:yes: ,..... greetz, diemai:yay: -
@ Dima I order from Welcome to Moore's Lures (USA) , here is another shop in Europe : Lureparts.nl , maybe also check Lure Fishing UK , its a British lurefishing site , go to "links" on their entry page , many different suppliers listed there ! good luck , diemai:yay:
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I've making spoons and blades since more than 15 years , used to paint a few of these as well . I'd make them of stainless steel , copper and brass sheet , most likely leaving the inner side plain polished and only painting/decorating the outer side . The surfaces to be painted I had sandblasted at my work before , and prior to priming I'd clean them with industrial alcohol . I used an ordinary primer paint from the tool store , suitable for metal and wood alike , doesn't matter , whether acrylic or solvent based . The colors I did with "Revell" model making enamels(by brushing) , after topcoat with acrylic clear(to protect the color design against the final topcoat)and finally with 2K clear , guess its also called PUR laquer . Those commercial blades are made of brass plated with a very thin layer of nickel or similar , ...I have also painted such the above described way , but also sandblasted that plating away down to the bare metal before . Never had any issues in terms of the paint coming off that much apart from normal wear on rocks or mussels . greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ JBlaze I'm actually using my third one ,..... I remember to have wasted my first by roughhandling it cutting out cavities in an aluminium lead casting mold , the main drive shaft got bent and the bearings wore out , couldn't use it anymore after ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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Wrapped fish candy , sweet:lol: ! Welldone lure:yes: , ......greetz , diemai:yay: -
@ JBlaze The pointing forward lip seems to cause a very violent "snake" action , more pronounced than on most other swimbaits . I have made a two section crankbait years ago with a similar lip configuration , it moves a bit alike , also shaking the front section left/right . Great design for a swimbait , anyway:yes: ! welldone , Dieter:yay: -
@ atrophius I really do miss the hooks on it:?! Great job:yes: , and also great input(not to overlook) ! Thanks for sharing and wishing great fun for the little boy:yes: ! greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ JBlaze I have done similar on some wooden crankbaits with internal wire harness . Made these out of halfround pinewood dowels , which I aligned flush with some three or four toothpicks to snugly fit through some crosswise bores . I could not get the indentions of the wire deep enough by pressing the two halves together in a vise , so I also had to cut them out with my "Dremel" . greetz , diemai:yay:
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@ alphawolf Looking at this picture it might really happen , that the lower blade's rear tip hits the swivel or splitring of the top blade . But just like Dave I also assume , that it rather has to do with the angle of the blade arm ,..... it is pointing too much upward , I'd say:? . The bigger rear blade , being a willowleaf either , does not provide a lot of drag on retrieve like certainly f. e. a colorado blade would , thus the latter would pull the blade arm backward altering the angle a bit . So I'd suggest , try bending the blade arm backward and increase the spacing of the smaller blade towards the upper eye of the blade arm . Willowleaf blades were always kinda tricky to me , though I'm not into spinnerbaits that much , ......but had enough troubles before to get them to spin on ordinary inlines . Much prefer so-called "swing blades" nowadays , these are quite foolproof . good luck , diemai:yay:
