MTfishingrods

I will answer, as im sure others will follow. First on the double injector, yes its two, you suck plastic up into each individual and then connect them into the adapter and inject. As far as how fast the seals wear out? I cant help you there because mine have not wore out yet and have not yet heard of any wearing out on the Bears injectors even by the guys who have shot gallons upon gallons through them. Not saying that they wont wear out, I am just saying that I dont know what that point is. As far as glitter and salt staying suspended, I dont use salt at all, but glitter does stay suspended nicely, however my proceedure is to get the molds ready, suck the plastic, shoot the baits, shoot the remaining plastic back into cup and demold and start over. So there is never any plastic sitting in the injector for glitter to settle in. Now the big one. As far as blowback from injectors. If your getting blowback from an injector I would toss it in the trash and give up. Thats just plain dangerous!!!! I dont know whats causing that but Its never once happened with mine. In fact I have taken my molds and injectors into a 4th grade class and every student has injected their own baits not even close to having a burn or a close call. My 10 year old son uses my injector and has never burned himself. Obviously gloves and long sleeves, pants, and shoes are requirements as they are with any kind of pouring. But Face mask and teflon aprons are getting a bit carried away. A little bit of common sense can go a long way with these things.

I wasnt in on the bidding but I was watching it wondering how much it would go for. I have about that much laying around here. Was considering listing mine but I black is my favorite bait. And My son loves to pour if only I could get him to remelt instead of making new colors LOL.

I have to respectfully disagree with Jim on this one. Especially with respect to this being a stick mold. I cant think of a single thing that you can do with hand pouring that I cant do with injection better and faster when it comes to the stick mold. As for different colored tips being hard or impossible, not so. Its the exact opposite. They are simple. You insert the different colored tips you want into the molds and inject as you would normally. The small amount of pressure applied from your hand sitting on the top of the knob for a second after injection will eliminate any potential cold cracks that you would have gotten had you attempted to hand pour this way. It dont get any simpler than that. As long as you cut your tip uniformly, the baits will all be perfect. And as for speed, them molds are just flat fast! You want laminants you will have to do exactly what Jim said and open the mold, pour one side, let set up and then inject. Thats going to be a bit more time consuming. No more time consuming than hand pours. As to which one is right for you, only you can make that choice. Oh yeah guess what the multi cavity injection stick mold hand pours also! What a deal! heres a link to another members injections who did different color tips. Didnt think it would be appropriate for me to copy his picture and post it here. http://bearsbaits.com/forum/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=item;id=259

So you won the ebay auction Husky?

I will also be the first to say if Jim says it can be done by hand pouring he can do it! I have no doubt in my mind. Check out his web site and look at his other baits. It will take me years to learn what he can do, and I still may not get it.. Thats what I am talking about on the shorter learning curve. But like Jim pointed out, everyway has its limits also.

I would recommend injection molds. The reasoning behind my advice is the learning curve is so much faster. You can be pumping out perfect baits within minutes of setting your stuff up. Contact Bear at Bears Baits and have him set you up with a starter kit for injection molds. You will still need microwave and pyrex or hot plate and pans but this will be the fastest way to quality baits. You can do core shots with the injectors. There is a dual injector for doing laminants. Its amazing what can be done. And the service is second to none.

Im pretty sure Thorne Bros does. Wouldnt surprise me if Gander mountain did also. Cabelas does.

Mainbutter, Absolutely that can be fixed and is actually a very easy repair. What you want to do is to carefully clean all the rod finish and thread off from where the broken guide was on the rod. If its not broke loose entirely then take a razor blade down the foot of the guide sideways and cut the thread and epoxy loose form there to start. Once it starts to come loose it will peel off very easy. A credit card works nice to scrape any left over finish off that wants to stick. Then with a thin strip of masking tape tape new guide on in place. Take new thread and Begin wrapping new guide in place till you get to the tape, remove tape and continue wrapping to the end of guide. Then you are ready for the rod finish over the thread. Most mix just like 2 part epoxy some are just one part requiring no mixing. Saturate your wrap while turning the rod on a support. then let set up turning every 5 minutes for the first hour and every 15 minutes for the next 2-3 hours till the finish begins to set. Should be ready to fish.

I remelt and re pour. But if you didnt pour them yourself in the first place, I guess that wont be an option.

"As for not fishing like a new rod I'm glad it doesn't because it is not." That was my point exactly. I just am not as passionate as most people who build bamboo rods are. I did it because im a rod builder and wanted to build one for me and my son. Thats it. Im not trying put anyone down who is by any means.

Wally, Its archery Elk season here. Here is a quick bit of info I found while looking back through some of the massive amounts of research I did before attempting my bamboo creations. LOL . Hope it helps. I will keep looking. Who knows what else I will stumble onto as well. I think what you want is on the last two pages. The first few are some bass rods, then lots of fly rods. Shane http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/herters.html and another http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/html/taper_archives.html

Dels flat top mold can be difficult to pour but can be done with practice. It will take practice though. If you dont want to spend the time a two piece mold would be better. Or try a different style one piece fluke like Bears rtv fluke. Its also a great bait. But keep going back and practicing on Del's. I wouldnt just give up on it. You can never have to many fluke molds. Now i have to go watch Daves videos to see what i can learn from them.

You could also purchase the grip turning mandrels from someplace like mudhole. set them up just like you would turning in a lathe only in a drill. Then you could turn an entire grip in a drill, not just the split grip. The trick is to not be in a hurry. I once did this out of cedar bark rings while camping. On a piece of allthread instead of a mandrell. The trick is to not be in a hurry.

Wally, Keep checking back. I may have some info for you on these rods. Its going to take me some time to dig it out from wherever I may have buried it. But it may help out. Also it will be delayed by me going hunting for 3 weeks here in the next couple days. But I will be back and forth even durring that. So I will see what I can come up with. Shane

Yeah I have info on them. If he has what your looking for, you wont find a better bait anywhere!! Try them, You wont be disappointed. Jim has talent!

Your not going to find much here on bamboo rod tapers. Its just not that type of web site. The info you need is out there though and probably just a google search away. Dont know how much experience you have with bamboo rod making. I have made a couple bamboo fly rods now. All I can say is its a ton of work for a rod that fishes nothing like a modern rod. So if your into that thing, its great.

There is a product made called cork filler also. You should be able to get it at Mud Hole as they stock most products. Aplly using the same steps as Clambo posted above.

If Pike are sight feeders explain the number of Pike caught every year on dead smelt under a non moving bobber. I am not saying that sight wont trigger a bite but smell has to have something to do with it also. Especially with pike. Want proof. Soak your tackle in gasoline and see how well you do. Then try clean tackle with fish or garlic scent. Accidental test I did while icefishing one year when gas cap was loose on ice auger. You will only do it once.

I am not knocking janns in general, but the injector is crap, and dangerous! I would avoid that one at all costs. However some of their molds require an injector with a very small tip, so you are either going to have to pass on those particular molds, adapt a good safe injector like a bears baits injector or use one of theirs and pray a lot. I purchased 4 of them, im now down to 2 of them due to 2 of them coming apart in my hand full of hot plastic. Luckily I had good gloves and was not using excessive pressure. Just made a mess and scared me. My other 2 will remain in my junk drawer forever or until my son figures out they might make nice squirt guns.

Congrats Clamboni!!! The fun is just begining.

"Thanks so much for all your input, I do have one additional question though. The only reason I wanted to look into baking baits is I bought some from a local guy and I found that small differences in the baits made a huge improvement in the quallity of fish I was catching. You all know how the story goes from here, as a tourny guy you are allways looking to improve and replicate the results." Now ya went and hit the nail right on the head there Nathan. Reason a lot of us went and took the leap into this. You will enjoy it. Dont be afraid to ask anymore questions. There is also the search feature at the top right of the page which will reveal so much info it will be overwelming. Good luck and have fun.

If you want to save yourself lots of money, then dont start. there is no end to this. Its only a hundred dollars now, but thats just a drop in th bucket to what you will have spent next year come this time.

we generally use pigment added to the epoxy in small amounts, not paint. Testers model paint is one I know works, let it sit for quite a while and pour the separated product off the top, the pigment will have settled to the bottom. I dont know how other paints will react in the epoxy.

I believe Mud Hole has some spacing charts and guide kits on their site. I would recomend using them if you can find them. I space mine according to the action of the rod, but would not know how to begin to explain how to do it on here. Maybe Matt will come along shortly, he seems better at putting these things into words than I am.

Lops, will this be any different or better than the stuff we already get from our current suppliers?