WannabeeFishing

Do a search on airbrush and you should get a lot of links. Here's a couple to get you started. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/15729-right-airbrush.html http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/15858-need-advice-starter-paint-set.html Gary

Yep, they both get great reviews. Thanks for all the input. Hopefully, Milia got something out of it too.

I like that unit. I believe the Harbor Freight Tools model is a Grizzly knockoff. But really, it's not a lot cheaper. This brings up one of my other questions... For just a few dollars more I can get a full size unit with most of the brands. Since I do woodworking also, I wonder if I'd be better to get a full size lathe. Would they be too cumbersome for lure turning? Gary

Capt., Thanks, that was the type input I needed. There's a profile on Smooth-on's site of a tackle builder that combines Featherlite with one of their more dense products to get the balast he needs. Since I use primarily floating baits, I shouldn't need much weight except for stability. Gary

That's a cool site. Thanks for the link.

Refer to the manufacturers website for a beginning ratio. Then test on something you don't mind ruining. Then adjust the ratio until you get what you want. Then you can start on the lures. Good Luck!!!

First off, Firechief, welcome to the forum. There's a lot to be learned here. You can use the search function to look for existing threads. Here's a recent one to get you started. I rambled a bit on my response, but maybe there's something in there you can use. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/15858-need-advice-starter-paint-set.html Welcome to the obsession. Gary

Correct. So do the ones distributed by Booyah. I believe the split ring is Barlow's solution for using jigs that don't have eyes that can be opened. I haven't used one rigged like this so I don't know how they perform.

I've heard that comment also. I believe they are indicating that you should tie your line directly to the snap and not to use a split ring between the snap and the line. Barlows shows a split ring being used to attach the blade to the jig. Some of the commercially made chatterbaits use an jig eye that will open and it is connected directly to the blade. Gary

I just stumbled on this thread. I use a Lowrance LCx 26hd unit with a Navionics chip for my local lakes. In this screen shot I ran across a school of Striped Bass or Hybrid bass (Striper and white bass cross). Both are rampant in our local lakes in north Georgia). Although they didn't show in this shot one thing to look for are schools of bait fish. They normally will show up a single dark blob. They are important as the game fish (Stripers, Largemouth Bass, etc) will normally school under the bait fish. Then you need to determine the appropriate depth and deploy a lure that will work that depth. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj169/wannabeefishing/IMG002141.jpg

I'm looking to get into casting crankbaits. I've seen Featherlite and Alumilite mentioned as products of choice. What are the pros and cons of each?

I'm doing a similar search. The stationary tools in my workshop are mostly the big brands - Delta, Rigid, and Ryobi with some of Lowes house brands tossed in. I burned up a cheap table saw once so bad I set off the smoke alarm. I've had a hard time finding a name brand full size lathe under $500 or a compact lathe for under $300. I've had some luck with the Chinese-made knockoffs from Harbor Freight tools for my lower-use tools. They carry a 12" lathe with variable speed and multiple chucks and tool rests for around $120 and a full size lathe for under $200 (when on sale). Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices I agree with Parrothead on getting a quality tool that will last-my other tools are rock solid!!! But until I figure out just how much and how I'll be using the lathe, I'm perplexed on what to get. Perhaps if I start with the knockoff, I'll have an answer by the time I burn it out. Gary

That's strange. I'd like to see how it affects the action. Gary

Wow. Great work. That's a dandy small water boat. I have a lot of electric only lakes in my area and that would be a wonderful rig for them. Gary

I've used Gorilla Glue for woodworking. It is a moisture release adhesive. I'm not sure how it will perform when dunked in water. I do know it expands as it sets and the excess has to be scraped off a wood joint. But afterwards, the wood will fail before the glue does. Test it on something than one of your prize lures. And maybe dip it into water for a couple of hours to see how it does. Gary

Looks good. I have a granddaughter that would arm-wrestle her for that pink rod. Nice Work Gary

My grandfather was a plumber and, while I'm dating myself, he used a similar rig to melt down lead used to seal the old cast iron drainpipes. They used a metal ladle to pour the lead. He bought his lead in ingots from the plumbing supply store. Gary

That's a good looking setup. I am considering building something similar. I wanted to put a pleated filter at the back to catch the fumes. I mostly use waterbased paints. Would a shopvac be acceptable to pull the fume thru the filter? Or am I setting up for a hazard?

That's good advise. I have to admit, I went to the lures too quickly. I had a few lying around that I found hung in trees, etc. So I didn't have any money invested in them, but could have done a better job had I practiced more. There are some good tutorials on sites like Airbrush Magazine,airbrush lessons,articles,tutorials on line. You'll be blown away by the work displayed on that site. Gary

I'm a newbie at this, but here's what I've learned so far. I've seen some good results on the site with guys simply using rattle-can paints. Some really great colors are available. Get a decent airbush if you don't have one. I started with a middle of the road unit from Harbor Freight Tools. Did OK but I had some issues with it clogging. I upgraded to a Paasche H model kit I found on sale for about $60 at Hobby Lobby. It's just a single action unit but works great. It came with a starter set of bottles, a gravity feed bowl, three tips and a hose. Hobby Lobby carries a good supply of spare bottles, tips, etc. An airbrush compressor will set you back probably more than the airbrush. Watch for sales at hobby stores and places like Harbor Freight Tools. I've see some guys that use canned air. That's good to start, but if you are going to do a lot, a compressor will probably be cheaper in the long run. I had also wondered about getting a air storage tank and filling it from a big compressor or at a gas station. Whatever you use, pick up a moisture filter to keep from contaminating your paint job. I personally use craft paints because they are pretty cheap ($1/bottle). But they have to be thinned - 1 part water and 3 parts paint seems to work in my gun. The paint company's website will probably have a suggested ratio published. A lot of guys use the airbrush paints. These cost more, but seem to give them great results. I keep a spare bottle with a 50/50 mix of window cleaner to flush out the airbrush between colors and after a paint session. Look through the site's gallery for some color suggestions. Some are pretty elegant, but start with basic color schemes. I like to do a white base coat. I use gray and black for shad colors and yellow (chartruse), green and orange for the bluegill colors. I think most of us start with Devcon Two Ton epoxy to coat the final paint job. Don't brush it on too heavy or it will run. One coat seems to be fine. Two coats will run really bad (don't ask me how I know:flame:). Check out the site's how to section to build a lure turner. Start with some old lures that can use refinishing. You can also get some inexpensive blanks from the suppliers mentioned on the site. Also, watch the bargain bins at tackle counters closeouts. A lot of quality lures are produced in hideous colors and get tossed in the bins to get rid of them. Tape off the diving bill with painters masking tape and be sure to lightly sand the old finish to give your paint something to grip to. Don't get frustrated if the first ones come out a little off. Chances they will catch fish anyway. Enjoy, Gary

I've also experimented with the rattle cans with glitter. I got gold and silver at my local hobby shop. Gold for light color lures and silver for darker ones. I just lightly sprayed a coat and then covered it with D2T. It looks good to me, now I just need to try it out on the fish. Gary

Found it. I had it loaded, but just never dug into the software deep enough. Thanks for the guidance. Gary

I picked up a few goldfish nets at Walmart's pet department. They are only a buck or so. Cut the webbing away from the handle and it wraps nicely around the lure.

I have Photoshop Essentials. I'll poke around and see if it has that feature. Thanks for the tip.

I've used craft paints from the hobby store. They are less expensive, but have to be thinned with water to use in an airbrush. 30% water added seems to work well.