pizza

Gotcha. It can be verrry time consuming.

Nothing like starting with a block of balsa and three grades of sandpaper. Throw in a dremel, a file or two, a carving/exacto knife, and a dust mask if you prefer. Or just a block of balsa and three grades of sandpaper.

Great answers.... Where i fish (lots of rocks), if you gave me the lure you have with the scratched lip as well as one that was scratched but then coated so it looked better, and i fished them for a year, the one that looked better in the beginning would end up looking worse after a year. That has been my experience with epoxy. Tried it once or twice and that was enough(dn s81 would almost certainlydo the same thing, rocks harder than epoxy) Dont worry about it, its like filling in scratches in the bottom of a yak, theyll be back in no time.

You are probably better off with the air brush. Not a lot of color selection with the krylon stained glass. The red is....welll....very....red. The blue is....welll....very blue, etc. In addition it is very expensive, like $8+ for a 6 oz can....and relatively hard to find ( ive seen it at ace as well as hobby lobby.....where i bought out the remaining stock for 50 cents a can :-).

In addition, krylon also makes a "transparent series" of rattle cans that come in a standard sized rattle can. I have not had very good luck wtih these. While they are transparent, they also kill the reflection. But the krylon stained glass series is the real deal. Hardly any rattle canners on here, but foil and rattle cans are my gig since i bought so many darn rattle cans, now i must use them up lol...and i foil nearly everything (to help make up for the fact i dont have an airbrush, and bc foil rocks....)

For rattle canners, krylon makes a "stained glass" paint that is transparent. It comes in a smaller can, maybe 10 oz(google if interested). Works great with foils. Though i have also used non transaparent paint too with good success(very light). For example, if i want gold foil color, a super thin coat of house of kolor gold rattlecan works well(discontinued, ebay) One might even guess it was gold foil to begin with. Looks good as gold foil to me. But most of the "standard" rattle cans are very oppaque and will quickly kill the foil reflection.

Those look like they could be some type of sequin or stick-on plastic rhinestones (which work well) for the eyes.

I coat one, occasionally two cranks at a time. Now i use etex, but before that i used d2t. I mix in the bottom of a pop can. Wipe off printed letters/numbers with solvent( i use epoxy thinner). Squirt in d2t(used the $2 ones from wally world with the dual plunger). Now i use etex, either the 8 oz kit or 16 oz kit, i just pour a little of resin and hardener in (eyeball method). Then i pour a little a little epoxy thinner in. I use more than most on here, probably 10-15 drops, but that is a guess. Next i stir with a wiha brand micro flathead screwdriver for about 2 minutes, sometimes longer. When it gets to the viscosity that i want to apply i apply with wiha screwdriver. I will have a butane torch handy and will sometimes use it to smooth things out before it goes to turner. This is mostly on larger lures that take longer to coat. Not the quickest way, but It works for me. Can can be reused multiple times.

Forget about creep. Forget about yielding. They are irrelevant to fishing lures for a number of reasons. In a nutshell, the ultimate tensile strength (which is what the test mentioned will give you if you do it to failure) will depend on lure design, shape, materials(especially their ultimate tensile strength), and how well the materials are joined/bonded together since it is a composite. Depending on the lure, one of those will be he weakest link and cause failure. I dont see shape as being the weakest link, but it could in an "extreme design". Sonny, it has been over 10 years since i got out of engineering. I tried to find that article but there were a lot. I used to work at the rockwell science center -world class r&d facility full of super cool equipment.

"Leaving the weight on for a while also is good because that checks for fatigue over time." I was just pointing out improper use of the term "fatigue". If you do a test like rayburn guy mentions until failure, you will find the ultimate tensile strength of the composite (lure). Sorry for getting technical on terminology, my background is in materials science and mechanical testing is what I used to do.

Let us know how it goes. Do the individual scales peel off?

Apparently i misunderstood your first post. I have not tried to shoot down a single thing, nor do i think i have. Just trying to clarify things based on my background.

A static tension test does not test fatigue. Fatigue failure is caused by repeated cycling.

Im pretty sure i got it at hobby lobby. If it wasnt there, maybe michaels crafts, but pretty sure hobby lobby. As i recall it also has that "multi colored cool look but mostly silver" like the lc scales. Maybe thats just an artifact of the lighting/flash picture though. Its at home so i cant check. The pic shown on the ogf site was my first attempt and i was quite pleased. Ive got another one at home thats been waiting for its final coat (probably for over a year now lol)). Also earlier in that ogf thread is a picture of the actual glitter container if that helps as far as brand. I think that is the only hex glitter i have. Didnt even realize when i bought it, maybe i lucked out. Quality stuff though.

I noticed the glitter i used for the "scale simulation" says "medium", so id guess that there is larger, just havent been looking for glitter in a while. Thanks for the tip! Also the glitter i used is hexagonal or something like that and pretty thin- its pretty cool, not that "cheap looking thick square stuff".

Yes, exactly.

imho, the forces a lure would see during a battle with a big fish are much less than those one would find if they did the test until failure (maybe I'm wrong, I've never done the tests nor have I researched into the forces a lure may encounter during battle). They are for much shorter time. An impact force to similate the force of someone setting the hook, trying to free up a snagged lure, or a fishing hitting a lure with fast velocity (as well as crushing it with its jaw). The test you mention will be good to compare different build techniques, materials, etc for sure to make lures stronger for sure.

Ok, just saying that If you are worried about catastrophic failure(losing a fish), a drop or impact test is much more realistic than hanging weights(static loading). As i understand, the biggest reason )why people thru wire is to prevent catastrophic failure(catastophic failure being defined as anything that would lead to one losing a fish due to lure failure).

I dont believe that type of test to represent would happen in a real world fishing failure of a non thru-wired bait. I think if a bait fails, it would be by a crushing impact from a large toothy critter(followed by much less tension than that used in your test) Maybe someone could modify a supersized rat trap with a shark jaw and set up some type of standardized test lol.

Thru wire construction is easier the bigger the bait(try thru wiring a mini fat rap size crank). It is a more robust construction, especially the less dense/softer the wood is. I have only thru-wired about 4 baits bc super glued in twisted wire has yet to cause a single problem for me(i dont fish for toothy critters, but have caught saugeye up to 6.5 lbs on my balsa minnows, no prob). I make mostly small baits. Lastly, the tools i use (minimalist and cheap: sand paper, hand saw, x tools pliers to make twisted wire, two types of wire cutters, Wiha micro screwdriver, a dart tip, an exacto, scissors, hand torch, dremel, files)make it easier to to use twisted wired that is simply glued in. For example, the only saw i own is a $5 stanley hand saw that has about a 4" blade. Having said that, i do really like thru wire designs, but i think the whole "they're stronger" argument is over rated. I do other things to add strength to my non thru wired designs though, like extra epoxy layers. Like i said, i dont fish for toothy critters, and the biggest bass around here run about 5 lbs(or any one i ever have a remote chance of catching). I do really like the thru wire designs though, and would like to eventually get more into them.

"please dont squeeze the charmin" Hey lr- i like that avatar, very cool...

Is that charmin? If so, please pull off that last piece before use. Nice...

If you don't want to bust out the swiss army knife scissors and holographic/hvac tape. Or go fishing in leather punch holes for individual "scales" (tip: start the peeling process for each scale with an exacto ....) maybe try the following. See top pic in post #17. Try to find large glitter and apply only to top. Not the same look, but a similar effect... http://www.ohiogamef...ad.php?t=151184

Heres how i foil with foil tape. If you can find a large bolt, they work great for patterning the foil. http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=122766&highlight=Foiling+tutorial

Pure water is fresh water that is not contaminated/polluted. The water where i fish is fairly polluted so i would think it has a density ever so slightly higher than 1 g/cc. Because of this, a lure with an overall density of 1 g/cc would be a suuuuuuuuuuuuuper slow floater (here i go splitting hairs again) at 4 degrees C in the polluted rivers i fish. There is a reason why there are only a handful of commercially available wooden suspenders. They are a pain to make (ive gotten close, but no true suspenders yet), and just as difficult to reproduce. I speak for 3/8 oz and smaller baits which is mostly what i make. The only commercially available wooden suspender i know of is the lucky craft wooden pointer.