jimcline

Jerry, you are such HYPOCRITE. You absolutely have a problem with the way Dave Alexander does things, especially when it conflicts with anything that Del does. If you didn't have a problem with the him taking Del's business from Calhoun's, why did you even bring it up. It was Dave's posts that got pulled when he got into it with Del and now it's Dave that's getting censored with this chump Jim from Ghostbaits. He got his hands smacked a little for some of his senseless comments on Dave's site and he's been digging at Dave ever since. He is such a punk. I've been on this site for a couple of years now, and it's exactly this kind of politics and hypocrysy that has kept me from becoming a paid member. Isn't it funny that the only time I've seen you threaten someone with the "ban card" is with Dave. Imagine that. If you had such a problem with him, why didn't you refuse his membership and his advertising money. Like I said, HYPOCRITE. I've had all this garbage I can handle. I'm done with TU. You people are nowhere near being evenhanded or fair. Cancel my membership along with Dave's. Goodbye and good riddance. JIM

My first thought is that you're using way too much salt for 1 cup of plastic. Personally I go with a 75% plastic to 25% salt ratio. If you're looking for a tougher bait, maybe try using a hard formula plastic. I only use Calhoun's and find it to be very durable, sso maybe that's an option for you. As far as remelting your plastic, yes you can but you need to add fresh plastic with it to keep it from scorching. And the more you remelt it, the more the color will change.Adding a little heat stabilizer would help keep it from scoprching too. Good Luck.

Instead of using poly bags and headers maybe you should go with regualar barrier worm bags and labels. They look better in my opinion and aren't that much more expensive. I got mine from Johnson Bag and they're great. You do a cheap label on your home computer and you're set.

I think Mainbutter gave you some good advice. Go with the medium and add softener or hardener as you need it. At least til you get busy enough to need different formulas. You're right, most of us use hard formula for tubes, but if you're only doing enough for yourself you can harden up medium to work well enough. Personally I use hard and then add hardener to it tom get a really tough tube, but to each his own.

If it's like most hand pour 2 piece molds with small appendages, the only way you're going to get it to fill out is by opening the mold and filling those parts and then closing it and doing the rest. Pain in the butt. Or you could get yourself an injector and inject it. The problem then is getting a tight fit with the nozzle and not squirting hot plastic all over the place. here's one answer. If you have any old silicone molds that you don't mind sacrificing, cut yourself an adaptor that has a big enough hole in the center to accept the injector nozzle. i believe that both Bear's and Basstackles will fit a hole that is 5/8 in in diameter. Place the adaptor over the pour hole and inject like crazy. The silicone acts like a seal, just don't push too hard. Yeah I know, pain in the butt too, but it works. just a suggestion, cause I doubt no matter what you do you'll have a lot of success hand pouring that mold. It's no reflection on anyone's molds, you just can't beat gravity.

Those worms are probably not going to remelt very well if you don't add some fresh plastic with them. And melting them in a small pan over whatever heat source in my opinion is the worst way to do it You're almost guaranteed to scorch it. Better yet get some heat stabilizer and add a little to it also. There'snothing wrong with remelting as long as you take a couple of precautions.

Hey guys, I use sportsman's Goop that you can get from Walmart, etc. Also sold under the name of Shoe Goo, Marine Goop, Household Goop and so on. Same stuff, different packages. Just a little dab'll do ya. Any excess is easily peeled off. It doesn't set as quickly as super glue but it will hold better over time. Also, you might try dipping at least the head and eyes in clear plastic to seal the eyes on. hope this helps

What type of cutter are you using? the one I got from Bojon works like a charm. It cuts nice consistent tails pretty much every time. It's a rotary type. Picture a bunch of small pizza cutter type of blades with small rolling pin type handles.Nothing fancy but it works well. I'm not sure if Bojon still sells them, but they shouldn't be hard to make. As far as how pretty your baits are, I doubt the fish are gonna care. Some of my tubes are plain ugly and still catch a bunch of fish JIM

Hey guys, some time back I was looking for a mold like that and ended up on a site for I believe a company called Dolphin Sports or something very similar and they had them there. I believe they were Ament molds.You might try it and see what you come up with, JIM

I use Mortons flour salt(mostly cause I get it free). It suspends well, but does make the baits a little more opaque.

I believe that Bear is coming out with an injection machine very soon. The single color version is supposed to be about 1200.00 and the 2 color version is supposed to run about 1500.00. If the quality is as good as the molds that Britt makes for him it should be a fine machine.

My thoughts exactly. If it's taking him 2 hours to heat plastic in a presto pot, he's doing something wrong. I believe it takes me about 15 minutes tops with mixing and all to start pouring. I don't know what he's injecting and how much but maybe hand injection is the way to go.

Hmm, Del and Bear have already had good sales. Seems like these guys are just catching up.

If you need it that badly, why not just have it overnighted from one of the suppliers here. Just a thought. I can't think of anything that you could use in place of softener but maybe someone else can help. Maybe re-melt some softer formula worms. Just curious, are you adding fresh liquid plastic to your remelts? That may help. JIM

By keeping the plunger from pusing plastic out, do you mean that the plunger works on it's own and pushes plastic out by itself. That doesn't exactly sound safe to me.

The only drawback I see to it is what you already stated, the flake rubbing off with time. And if you're catching muskies the baits probably won't last that long anyway. That's a nice looking bait by the way.The only thing I might suggest is pouring your plastic or clear or opague in that color and then really pouring the glitter to it to get the shade you want.

That looks more like a fly to me. You might want to check into tying that in a bead head type pattern which would effectively give you what you want. Hope this helps,JIM

Have you tried talking to Bear? I think I would do that before I started cutting on a mold. Try warming the mold a little first.

Fatman, you need to pour a lead "plug" for your pour holes to cover the holes while the mold is in boiling water. You'll want to remove the wooden handles too, assuming you're using a Do-it mold. The plug get's held in place with a few strong rubber bands. We were doing a round about every 7 minutes. It's a really simple process.You're right, the possiblities are endless.I made football heads,Arky heads. I intend to use them as a floating C-rig type of set-up to drag different baits with. It should be fun at least.JIM

Shhh, we won't tell

All the safety concerns aside, Larry Dahlberg may be the best all round angler on this planet. He really is awesome to watch. I met him once in Cincinnati at the boat show and he was a great guy. He' also the reason I got into fly fishing for muskies. Because of an article I read of his. I mean the guy invented the Dahlberg Diver when he was 15 years old. How talented is that?

Tuna, no sweat. Glad I could help. I think you'll be pleased with the goop. For any of you folks that tie flies too it is a great glue for gluing on eyes on deer hair bass bugs and such. It will stick to most anything.

Tuna, I use a glue called Goop. You can get it from Walmart, K-Mart, etc. It also goes under the name of shoe goo, Sportsman's goop, Marine Goop, and E-6000(which is the main name I believe). The point is they are all basically the same product, just different names, made by the same company. Just open the lid and puncture the seal and let a little ooze out, then dip the end of your guard in it and place it in the hole. It's kind of thick so it won't come out too fast. Just don't squeeze too hard. It drys flexible and clear and won't get brittle like super glue. Any excess peels right off . Oh and it make a great fly tying cement if you mix it 2 parts Xylene to 1 part Goop. It makes one of the best flexible fly tying cement on the planet. Just don't breate the fumes. Now, this is how I do my painting. I leave the hole pins in till I bake the paint on and then pull them out and the hole is clean. Just clean the paint off the pins later and use them again. Hope this helps, JIM

I'm with Richard on this one. I've been a tanker driver for over 20 years and I've hauled a bunch of hot stuff including hot asphalt, which is about the same temperature as hot plastic. I've got scars on me from both and can't remember the asphalt hurting worse than the plastic. 350 degrees is 350 degress and it hurts like hell when you get it on you. Once you've seen a man burned over 75% of his body by hot liquid you get a reality check quickly if you don't want to get hurt too. Now I know we're talking two different animals here, but guys this stuff we play with can be very dangerous. I'm just saying, be careful. JIM

Guys, I too used this stuff. It's called expandable styrene. It works great. We used a waterbased craft paint to paint them with. I tried vinyl jig paint but it ate he styrene up. I believe youcan get the water based stuff from Walmart or Hobby Lobby or someplace similar. Hope this helps. JIM