CL Rods

ditto. I have however fished and do fish SOME of the h20 baits, and have had reasonable success with the square billed baits. The first thing you notice is the difference in depth between theirs and the pricier versions. But if you account for that and fish the bait at the proper depth I think in this case you would be satisfied. For those in the Charlotte area, it is only a short trip over to Greenville. I hit a few other spots along the way when I have gone.

Chances are you are overworking the epoxy. You might try putting it on each guide without trying to be so exact, then come back and finish around the foot of the guides. You could also try the Lite build formula. I like to start at the tip and work back toward the handle, this will allow you to get a thinner coat on the thin part of the rod and it will level a little better for you. When you are applying to the guides at the thicker portion of the rod you will have a bit more epoxy on the wraps and that will help level it out. You can assist the leveling a little with either a heat gun or alcohol torch. Be careful and don't cook it or it will set up and crystalize on you. But overall just work faster by applying it without trying to work it into and onto the threads so carefully.

There are a number of sources for epoxy syringes from Rod building sites. I use them in conjunction with new Self-Sealing Bottle Cap Syringe Inserts for the tops of the bottles. The inserts work great and I can just leave the syringe standing in the top of the bottle or remove them and put the cap back on the syringes. They also sell 1/2cc pumps which I use in my Etex bottles. I am not pushing any one site but just wanted to say there are options if you are buying the larger bottles of Devcon and you don't like using Yorker caps to just squeeze it out.

I use AutoAir white sealer and have no issues. I am applying it directly to an epoxy used to seal / smooth the wood surface. When I start appying my color coats I have no issues but I do heat set after every color is applied.

check out the work of these responders, and decide if you prefer one method or the other since there are so many ways to do this. Overall, just practice. Buy a 2gang solid white electrical switch cover plate from Lowes/HomeDepot/ACE.... Then you can practice all you want, wipe it off, try other techniques... The white plate will let you see the effects of having the basecoat down for various colors. Buy a black one as well if you like a lot of dark baits.

I would say there has been a minimum of two changes. The first thing I noticed around 200-2001 they changed some of the colors. While they were still called the same color, they definitely were not. The old Rootbeer (pre 2001) was killer, the new is blah just flat outright doesn't cathch as many fish. Now if I loose a Bandit, I most likely don't replace it unless it is one I custom painted for a local lake, and chances are I just use an old one and paint it up.

+1

There are a number of PearlEx powder colors that can be added to translucent base to create ghost colors. Some of Wasco's wildlife colors are awesome for the effects as well. For dark backs on the translucent baits, the Createx transparents work well also. You need to decide on some specific color versions and perhaps the choices get narrowed down.

Once again I am amazed at what might be found on eBay. Yes that is it.

Depending on the base coat and whether it is durable enough or if you have put an intermediate clear on it, the technique you just mentioned is how you create a marblized paint job. However, you do not let it dry under the plastic and you pretty much remove it right away. HOK makes a thinned silver pearl paint just for doing this and it works absolutely as advertised.

To glue my eyes on after clearing with an automotive clear I am using PARFIX 200, Medium Fast Cure Speed. It is a CA glue and I put a couple drops on a piece of paper then I use a needle to dip into the glue and apply a small very controlled amount on the lure before I press the eyes down on the lure. Now you ask where to get it. I got mine from the Balsa supplier on line, and I bought so much balsa it has been a couple of years and I still haven't used it all or all the CA.....so uh I kind of forget their name. Google for balsa and then look for the glue. Or you might be able to check with the manufacturer of the glue at www.parsonadhesives.com.