CL Rods

I have used FASKOLOR Chrome (made by Parma) which I bought at HobbyTown. It is a paint sold for use on model cars and is labeled as "Paint for Lexan Model Car Bodies & Other Surfaces". It is basically a flake/pearl paint but it is about the shiniest silver I have found. You can do some interesting things with it and it can add a nice touch for a citrus shad look as the base color or if you use it as an overspray to add a touch of a flake look. It can be clear coated easily but as others have stated it does loose some of the 'pop' once clear coated with epoxies. I wish I knew what it looked like with an automotive clear. But it is not smooth Chrome like you might want. It is basically the brightest silver pearl I have used. Make sure you use a large tip as the flake/pigment is a bit large.

Thanks guys, I'll try to narrow the spacing and try the wrapping around the end of the bill. I had been using the twisted wire approach which works well but I just like the looks of the straight wire. It looks much cleaner.

I have been experimenting with various lip materials and lip styles along with pull points to affect the action of the same body. I have noticed a number of baits built where the line pull 'LOOKS' similar to how the one in this photo is installed. What I have found with this method is that if you really start trying to adjust the pull left or right in an effort to stress test the pull, the pull bottom wire is twisting at the connection point to the bait and ultimately will loosen to the point it won't hold the adjustment you are trying to make. So for those folks using this method; how deep are you inserting the wires what gauge wire are you using what size hole are you drilling in the lip per size wire in use do you have problems with yours loosening or creating a gap

definitely pre-drill and try to get the sealer down into the holes with a wire or toothpick, thin it out if needed. I have made a few double props that are fairly small so buoyancy is a fine line. Adding the props and hooks at the end allows adjusting the number of beads if needed to get the prop action you want. So if you have made sure you sealed the inside of the holes then testing isn't an issue at the end and you can remove the screws and reinsert before securing permanently. I can't wait for warm weather and the bass and bluegills on bed!

Well, I know where you live (for now). So does this mean I know where a celebrity lives? You might have to quit using snuff or was it chew for those secret patterns! Your gonna have to hire help now! And poof there goes the quality.

now that is funny!

I was making a batch of Basswood crankbait bodies and I decided not to cut lip slots into a couple to use for making a couple of double prop baits. If you were making a double prop rounded flat side top water bait between 2.375" and 2.5" would you weight the baits? The only other prop baits I have done were cigar/spook shaped baits and I didn't weight them but it was heavier hardwood. They worked quite well, but I really don't want to prototype if I don't have too.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I think the biggest issue was the lip sitting at a slight angle and perhaps the relative size. I first started by shaping the lip to be more like the original bait but that yielded little results. Next I replaced the lip entirely and then added a new line tie in the lip itself. Adding the tie to the lip yielded a much softer action which surprised me a little. In shaping more of a coffin lip I am amazed at the differences in action between a rounded lip with very much the same surface area. Makes a huge difference in how much wiggle there is.

I have read a few posts including the recent one about canted lip angles and hunting, but I have a couple of questions about lip shape, placement... I made two minnow shaped baits that should have had very much the same action. On one the lip is just a pinch further toward the nose so I think that is why it has less action but it also wants to spiral if it is retrieved very fast. I have tried tuning it but regardless of how I tune it to run straight it will spiral if cranked to fast even if it runs straight to me when cranked slower. Is this simply due to the lip being too close to the nose? Or could lip shape and size be the deciding factor? The second bait the lip is back about 1/16-1/18 of an inch but same lip angle and should be pretty close in length and size. It may have slightly less lip due to being inserted slightly more. But I can burn it back if desired. Both baits are pulled from the nose of the bait. What SHOULD happen if I drilled and added the pull from the middle of the lip on the one that wants to spiral? Or could I alter the lip shape to help it not spiral when burned back? this one runs great; http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/file.php?n=4098&w=l this one spirals if cranked too fast; http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/file.php?n=4140&w=l