CL Rods

Is there a concensus on the type of cedar? Eastern, Western, Red, ??? I have stripped down and redone a few older large pike/musky topwater and prop baits and they were cedar, and dipped in I don't know what, but they were hard as rock compared to raw cedar. So is there a concensus on sealing them when using Cedar for Musky? Is there a spot to order cedar or if I go to the local lumber yard here in North Carolina will they have what I need? I would like to try making a larger prop bait for my northern friends. So suggestions on length and patterns to paint as well as which cedar would be appreciated.

Well I have gotten two orders from NationalBalsa the first was great and the second had a mix of some very grainy balsa that I have not been wild about, but overall pretty good, plus reasonable prices. I tend to order larger blocks and rip it down to size. Basswood, I have gotten from a couple of places but Hobbylinc had about the best prices for the sizes I wanted to order and it has all been top quality.

Just try to not get too much into the hook hangers/pull to begin with and if you do you can heat it a bit with a hairdryer and blow it out with a simple puff most of the time. If you have excessive amounts after it dries just drill it out, just be careful on the line pull as any abrasion will of course compromise you line. If you want to continue using D2T, try taking a stamping/crafts heat gun or blow dryer and heat the bait first before applying versus heating it afterwards to help level it. Just work quickly and efficiently and make sure everything you want and need is laid out before you mix up epoxy. Heat it, coat it and try to not overbrush the epoxy, and brush one direction primarily helps eliminate extra tiny air bubbles put it on the turner, do the next couple and then come back and just lightly hit them with a little heat if needed. You can also go to Lowes/Home Depot or ??? get some acetone if you don't have it already and after mixing the D2T add enough drops of acetone to thin it by about 1/3 and mix the acetone in thoroughly. This will help it lay on thinner and will extend the working time for you. Or you can just switch to ETEX a much slower curing epoxy and be prepared to let in spin a long time and you will have to apply a 2nd / 3rd coat. ps: l like Manns -1 baits, just repaint them and keep em!! Great for grass and thin/early lilly pads. I did a couple repaints as some of my early work as well and I definitely still throw them.

Guys those are some nice examples of DIY 3D Eyes. But wow, I think I am going to let the robots make mine. I have tried in the past and used D2T and didn't think to switch to Etex, but I am still not sure I have a steady enough hand or patience to make a couple hundred come out consistent. I salute your fortitude.

I really can agree with fatfingers, the unmixed/undermixed portion of the Etex can be the sole problem with epoxy. Transfering it to another container will certainly aid in avoiding problems.