SIUBASSER

Has anyone ever mixed fine steel or aluminum powder with resin to make a mold? I wonder if the addition of the metal would help dissipate some of the heat coming off of the bait.

Hi Jeff. Thanks for the advice. My problem isn't that the bait raises, it is that it rolls over at higher speed. I also like the blade hitting the head. I just wonder if blade position has something to do with the bait wanting to roll over.

Hey guys. Thanks for the advice. I have attached some pictures for reference. I have bent the top of the blade and that helped a little. I also noticed that the real chatter bait blade is much thinner than the blades I have. I put one on and was able to reel it much faster. The blades I have are .52mm and the originals are .36. I still wonder if the eye is too close to the head. My thought is that the blade doesn't have enough freedom and when its reeled fast it gets stuck. BTW I am not selling these and never will. I am well aware of the Z-Man patents and have no desire to get caught in that mess.

Hey guys. I looked through the site but cant seem to find a thread about the issue I am having. I am making vibrating jigs using the Do-It Sparky mold. I am opening the hook eyes up and attaching the blades directly to the eye. The baits look great and run really well at slow speed. The issue is when I reel them faster they blow out and roll over. I am having the issue with both the 3/8 oz and the 1/2 oz. The only thing I can figure is that the eye is too close to the head. However, when I look at other vibrating jigs they don't look any different. As always I appreciate an help you guys can give. Thanks

I use Styrofoam egg containers to mix epoxy in. Its nice because they are trash anyways, have no corners, and they can hold a bunch or a little. I just cut the cups apart from one another and keep them at the bench.

Has anyone ever seen a clear plastic willow leaf spinner bait blade? I know one company that sells spinner baits with a clear plastic Colorado blades, but I'm having trouble finding a willow leaf. Thanks in advance!

Ok guys! I have confidence that the geniuses on this site will finally solve my Bagley dilemma! I received a gift from a friend a few months back. It was a Bagley square bill that I assumed was a Balsa B 1. I started looking at it and it didn't look right. On the bottom it reads Bagley #1. Its like the B1 but is a little smaller profile and the bill is angled down just a little more. Anyone know what this bait is? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Richard

Does anyone know if there is a good knock off out there? There are a bunch of Lucky craft KOs but i haven't seen this one. Thanks guys

I'm resurrecting an old one. Ok im a noob to painting, can someone enlighten me on what uv hardener is, and is it being mixed with the base coat in this situation? Thanks guys!

The ones from Predator have a removable plug in the bottom where you can add or remove weight. The only place I have found to get the ones in your picture is ebay.

Awesome thanks guys! Hopefully i can get it right. Ill post a picture when i do. Im finally starting to get the hang of it. Seems like once you figure out the mechanics of the brush everything else becomes much easier! -Richard

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone knew the recipe for Lucky Crafts copper green shad. I am pretty new to painting and cant seem to find the right mix. I'm using createx paints. I would assume one of the colors in the mix is pearlised copper but i can't seem to figure out the other one, or how much of each to use. If anyone knows, its you guys!!!! Thanks - Richard

Hey cadman i bet we have meet. I live in Waukegan and work at the Pro Bass.

Bass pro makes a direct knock off called the flick and shimmy. Its almost exact. It has a different smell, but the bait itself is very very close. It is a hair fatter, but not by much. It even has the flat ends as mentioned above. They are available at some of the stores but are not even on the site yet.

Just wondering how this is done. I can’t figure out how the paint does not chip off. I know that you need to prime it with something first. Do I need to put any solvents on the bait first? I’m a total beginner with painting, but if I can get a frog to look half as good as this one ill have to buy spros by the gross! Thanks guys Richard

Hey guys. Just a little preface, i do not paint. I have a buddy who does it for me, but hes also not the most experienced at it. Anyway, the question I have is can you paint directly over a baits factory clear coat. The reason i ask is the bait i want painted is already painted the exact base color i want. So rather than painting the whole bait again can he just paint on top of whats already there? I have no doubt that you guys will be able answer my question. It never ceases to amaze me how much you guys know. Thanks guys - Richard

I'm sure its been talked about on here before, but I'm having a tough time finding anything about it. How are store bought crank baits fused together. I know that they are originally two pieces, but I'm having trouble figuring how they fuse such a small diameter edge together. I don't think there is a glue strong enough to keep it like that. Is it sonic welded? Or is there some sort of chemical used to to it? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks Richard

Yea that's kinda what i figured. I just don't have enough molds to justify buying a presto pot yet. Seems like it would take a lot of plastic. Hmm well ill still get it for pouring jigs. Thanks Richard

Hey guys, I was on Tackle Warehouse today and ran accross the Lee Production Pot IV. It looks like a good pot for general jig pouring, but then i noticed they said this " The Do-It Lead Melting Lee Production Pot IV features adjustable heat control, which also allows you to use it for melting and creating your own soft plastics." I was like ? Is this a realistic statement, or would you guys not recommend this. If so what temp setting would you recommend i put it at to not burn the plastic. Thanks Richard