Jeep

Hi All, I'm playing around with the idea of casting hard baits with ..something. I watched some video's on youtube on how casting is done in the first place -never did it..- but I think it must be a lot of fun to do. But... with what? I got some advice at a local shop to use FeatherLite. This should be lightweight, floating and strong/tough enough to screw some screweyes in. So i wonder if anyone of you can give me some advice on this. I mean; has anyone used this featherLite or is there something better?And, is it possible to use screweyes in casted body's or does it have to be wired through? Puzzles puzzles.. Thnx!

I'm not blaming anyone Bruce.. I'm just giving you my thoughts. Jeep

Since I'm on a roll here.. I put together another videoclip of my pike swimbait in action. You can see it at: YouTube - Handcarved custom Pike swimbait I'm curious what you guys think of the action. Jeep

Guys, Allright, the fee will be no problem for me since beer is also not cheap here in Holland. And.. I just really like this site too much. But.. I just think that it isn't very clear that from nowon you can only post in the gallery if you are a paying member. I thought there had to be some technical problem or a disk quota limit etc. Also in my opinion it isn;t a very smart thing to do; first offer people a lot of nice stuff; like posting pics of stuff you make for free and then at some point when your site is a success take away those right and charge a fee. As I said; no problem here I love this place. Maybe just because I'm in website design myself. Jeep

Hi guys, Well, luckily I may still post here. I've put together a small testvid of my swimbait. http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=1litrmQR6ss Jeep

Hi all, I wonder why.. the gallery is: 'closed for uploads'? Jeep

Hi Snax, I'm curious about the Nu-Lustre 55. Is it any good?

Hi Guys, On my new bait I'm going to try to fix a soft tail using fibbets I bought at a local fly fishing shop. I saw some guys here do that and I think it just looks great. The fibbets are really nice material; the fibers are really thin but remain straight after being flexed as it seems. The downpart of them is their price: just enought for the tailfin cost around 4,50 dollar. So if I would do the other fins as well total would be around 30 dollars!!.. and that is just no fun anymore.. so I'm thinking of alternatives. Any suggestions? I've looked at bristels on brushes but they are just not as nice.. Thnx Jeep

yup, that could get nasty...

I think I found it: I've modified my lure turner so that it can hold multiple pieces using 2 discs. Also I made some clamps -like x acto knive handles- using a solid alluminium bar and some bolds. This way you can clamp all of your pieces in very tight using some pliers before starting. The handles are very handy because it gives a perfect grip while coating your lures with epoxy. When your done you just stick them into the holder bit and clamp. Now I use 3 grips, but each side could hold up to 9 grips (depending on the size of your discs offcourse). Everything could be made out of better material (perspex, alluminium etc.) but this will do for now. I made up a drawing to ilustrate. Thnx!

Great! Thnx for all your replies guys. I am sure to clearcoat next one prior to the final topcoat. Such a bummer last one..

Maybe a stupid question... but I do like to sign my lures when they are almost finished just before the final topcoat. So I bought a staedler permanent marker. But as it turned out when I looked again next morning.. all writing had turned into one big smear by the etex! So I wonder: what do you guys use to sign your lures? Thnx

Thnx rofish, It's all done by airbrush and the spots by brush. Jeep

Hu guys, I have recently constructed some sort of drying wheel using a disco-ball motor (see photo). It works pretty fine for one lure. But.. since now I want to rotate more (un-assembled) parts at once, I am thinking of how to re-build it using 2 discs so it can hold more pieces at once. So I wonder: what kind of clamps do you guys use to hold the pieces. Thnx

yeah bruce, toothache sucks bigtime.. get well soon! Thnx for all the tips guys! I think that my 'jam' indeed has to do with the fact that the etex is a bit 'sticky' and that my angle was too wide. So that causes the joints to jam like in a 'lever'. What I also found out working on a new swimbait is that it is really important to pre-cut the angled cuts for your joints BEFORE you start any sculting, sanding etc. Cause now I did it after all the sculpting etc. and the result is that the joits don't work 'symmetrical' (i.e. one side moves like in fig. 1 and the other side like fig. 2). I hope it will still work fine but I'll have to test that tonight.. Well, that's another lesson learned.. Jeep

hi Mark Thnx for the advice. But what is D2T? I'm currently using G4 polyurethane sealer as a base and then etex as topcoat. Jeep

Hi guys, This is the second thing I came across building my first swimbait. I might be getting crazy.. but I just want to understand it so I draw something out. What happened was that I have probably made the joints too wide apart, (Fig. 1) thus allowing the sections to move too much. What happens is that the second section gets 'jammed'. This is solved by giving it a twich, but then not really how you would want it. So I wonder what would be the best 'angle' for the sections to move. Also considering the friction on the parts on the spot where they 'meet' wich could eventually lead to damaging the topcoat (see my other post). So I wonder what you guys think is the best angle? Thnx Jeep

Hi guys, I wonder how you guys put your epoxy on swimbaits? I have been breaking my head over this one for a week now and am very curious how you guys do this. I mean: do you assemble the swimbait first and then put on the epoxy or do you epoxy all the loose parts and then put them together? Because, if you put on the epoxy while assembled it is really tricky to NOT get any epoxy into your slots and onto your hinges. Also if you put on the epoxy while assembled you can not get any epoxy on the inside of the 'cuts'. But since i now seal all the parts in polyurethane sealer it thought that it wasn't nescessary to epoxy the inside of the cuts. But... this will leave a 'ridge' at the edge wich -as I found out- can delaminate because of the friction of the joint. And then, if you would put on the epoxy on loose parts, you can put the epoxy everywhere, but have to re-cut all the slots to get rid of the epoxy....

nail polish...interesting..