Seeking 56

So, has anyone then, sanded the topcoat and noticed a difference underwater?

After clearing a bait , does anyone take the time to actually dull the final clearcoat? One particular fellow who bought some of my baits claims his catch ratio is higher by dulling the finish? Seems if the finish is mirror like it will refract the sun has opposed to enhancing the paint scheme. I usually fish stained waters and can't really confirm his theory. Your thoughts? s54

Much appreciated fellows!! s54

Hey guys, normally when I attach bills to my lures I make sure I mask them first and then insert them. It so happens that on this particular one i'm working on, I decided not to mask. As a result it got covered with marine epoxy, which I scratched off after it hardened and now, scratched the lexan.... Any ideas on how to remove the scratches? Thanks s54

Janka hardness test - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia This should give you an idea on the density of most woods. Hope this helps. s54

When I used to repaint my crankbaits, I used nailpolish. But make sure to do one side at a time, as the polish might run. s54

Dieter, Yes, I was drilling the full lenght of the screweye in the cedar. Now that you've suggested going 1/4 or 1/3 of the depth, I will try it again. Thank you for the advice. Sorry to highjack this tread with this question, but I was thinking about this theory: Would relieveing the moisture from the wood by leaving it indoors, with a screw eye in it, strenghten it even more as it contracts? s54

Doesn't redrilling again compromise the tap created by the initial screwing of the screweye causing the screw eye to lose it's bite? When I first started building baits I experimented with red cedar, and gave up because the screw eye even with Gorilla glue would still turn. I would predrill with a 3/32'' bit and add the glue to the .092 ss srew eye tread. I feel softwood lures are best with a wire thru design. I have since switched to harder density wood like, Ekki, Brazilian Cherry, Brazilian Ebony, Purpleheart, Santos Mahogany, and some of the harder North American hardwoods. The screw eye with these types of woods does not even require any type of glue added to the treaded shank. I screw the screw eye with a dental pic until it is flush with the base and even a little further in. A little bit of marine epoxy with 2 final coats of E-tex ensures no movement at all. s54:)

Mark, could you explain why " If you feel resistance when you putting in the screw eye, stop and re drill. " Thanks s54

Hi, Here are just a few gliders I made using rattlecans. Hope you like them. s54 seeking54 - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting seeking54 - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting seeking54 - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting seeking54 - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

If you remove the threads from those round bungee tie down straps (cord) with the metal hooks on each end, you will find the rubber strands you're looking for. s54

I would try Lepage's marine epoxy for the Plano lip, hardest epoxy I've ever used. I've banged aluminium bills on rocks and it hasn't cracked yet. Funny, just tonight I was working on some lures and glanced over at one of my inline spinners, and I thought boy, that colorado blade would make a nice lip. s54

Recoating worked like a charm!!! Thanks again guys! s54

Ok, my last batch of etex must've not had the precise amounts of resin and hardener. As of a result, the lures are still sticky after 3 days. Can I apply another coat or am I going to have to strip the lure completely and start over? Thanks guys. s54

I'm experimenting with some Brazilian Cherry. It has a very tight grain is extremely hard and very heavy. It does not required any weight to make it sink. No need to epoxy the screw eyes with this wood if you use .092 screw eyes with 3/32'' bit. s54

Thanks for the input guys. s54

I have some 1/4" flat pvc. Thinking about making some bills out of it. Anyone ever use this before? Your thoughts? Thanks s54

24 hrs ago, I decided to see for myself if in fact using brake fluid would have damaging effects to a plastic lure. In retrospect I should've tried it first and then posted the results...I apologize for that. In any case.......The lure I decided to use for this experiment was a HOMER LEBLANC jointed Swim Whizz. It had been painted over with enamel spray paint. The original color was black with copper scales and was clearcoated by the manufacturer. Within 15 minutes, the topcoat started crackling and was easily removed using the paintbrush. I checked it again about three hours later and the brake fluid had started to loosen the original paint. About half an hour ago I almost effortlessly removed all of the existing paint. I hope the pictures are clear enough to show the results. The lure does not show any sign of fatigue nor sign of corrosion left by the brake fluid or any discolororation. The seems are still intact. blackjack has a valid point about the integrity of various plastics. I don't know where the Swim Whizz is manufactured but it didn't seem to get affected. Sorry about your lure CRANKNTN...... s54

CRANKNTN, From what a fellow TU member confirmed to me, this method is currently being used in Japan as well. I will try it on one of my plastic musky lures and report back. s54

Dot 3 brake fluid. I used to use it for my botched paint jobs on 1 /25 scale plastic model cars. I haven't used it on wood, but am confident it would work. The paint I used to use was automotive sray paint. I now either paint over or use a heat gun, since I don't have the patience to wait anymore:lol:

Pour brake fluid in a plastic container and leave the lure in for 1-2 days. s54