Seeking 56

Nathan, I used to have that problem until I stopped turning the can over and spraying for 5 seconds like they recommend. If that's your issue, check out the graffiti forums. Some say to replace the caps, other use acetone or mineral spirits and to keep your empties to clean out your good caps. Hope this helps. s56

Thanks very much Dave! I may actually try it now if I come across it. ArdentAngler, that's the problem with too many variables / options we tend to overthink everything! I'm currently overthinking a Gizzard Shad pattern I have to do s56

The soft ss wire shafts I bought were annealed. Some sites that carry ss wire don't mention if it's annealed material they're selling. I may be wrong here but because of this annealing process I would believe it to be even stronger and of better quality than regular stainless steel wire especially in smaller diameters. @BobP How did you like working with brass wire? Thanks s56

Never used brass and don't plan on it either. Can't see it as being a good material for lure making. Your split rings would probably fatigue the hook hangers especially if they're ss. .041 should be sufficient in terms of wire. You could get some of the soft tempered stainless available at most luremaking supply companies and it may be available in 12'' shafts. s56

saltwater, have you figured out how you're going to attach it all together?

You're a lucky to be able to target those silures diemai. I remember reading somewhere that they use small carp as bait. s56

Skeeter, My friend used a fiberglass resin for the clear. He recalls having to add hardner. So it's definitely not a 1:1 epoxy like Etex. He also only put 1 coat He also said the bait was never sealed. Just primed and painted with rattlecans. s56

It's all good Skeeter! You guys can debate for another 10 years Lol! I'm going to stay out of it, promise . That's one of my friend's first musky lure it's at least 10 years old. But that was the result of catching 1 pike. I don't recall what clear he used. I suspect rattlecan clear as he used a rattlecan to paint it. I'm going to ask him and get back to you, 'cause I'm curious as well. But you know, when I looked at it, it didn't seem like it was sealed...just primed. s56

Perhaps Skeeter, but it's insignificant when it comes to lures. It's the wood of choice for many musky lure builders regardless of lure shape or size. They wouldn't be using it and staking their reputation if it had an adverse swelling effect like on that pine lure. s56

I'm getting a case of deja vue Lol! It seems like this topic comes up every year. This is where I think posting pictures of lures is necessary to back up your arguments. Poplar in this case may not be suitable for all species of fish. Woodie builds musky lures, Skeeter builds bass lures. I may be mistaken but I think Riverman used poplar for his musky lures. I would love to see pics of the pros and cons of using certain types of woods. The pic of the jointed lure is made out of cedar. Cedar doesn't swell as you can see. The pic of this black lure is made out of pine. Pine swells as you can see. You can debate till you're blue in the face....pics speak a thousand words. s56

Small rivet or a stainless steel pin like a bicycle spoke?

Here's a 33'' musky that hit a 13'' repainted Grandma.

Mmm, interesting lure. I would use 1/8'' lexan sheets for the tail section, heat them with a heat gun and bend them over a dowel. Hope you post it when done. s56

If you're going to build one that's 6'' long, I dug out mine and it's 1/2'' thick. I've never built any that size but you may not need ballast on something that small if you're going to use lexan. The weight of the hooks should be sufficient to keep it below the surface at rest. But you should add some weight to make it suspend. I would put equal amounts located dead center between both belly hooks. s56

http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Rubbing-Out-The-Final-Step-to-a-Great-Finish-7436.aspx You got me curious, so I did a search and found this link. About half way down they talk about rubbing down to a satin finish from gloss. I could see this working on Etex since it's a tabletop epoxy. Who knows, could work with other clearcoats as well. I may have to try this myself. Thanks for posting this. s56

You're welcome saltwater. PM me if you have any questions. s56

So many benefits in using a rattlecan. You may not want to use an airbrush. I said the same thing as you....8 years later i'm still using them exclusively. Do fast strokes and blend colors while they're still wet. Try to use the same brand of paints if possible. Nice job! s56

I could see this tool useful for softer woods and anything you don't want to round over on a router. Lee Valley Tools carries this product and wouldn't hesitate in buying one as a result. Made in England and there is a sharpening kit for it. s56

A lure, wether it's plastic or wood is only as good as the guy who uses it. I've had several multiple fish days trolling and each one of those muskies was caught on a different bait (drives my partners absolutely wild). It's all about finding a pattern. The common denominators each time were amount of line out and boat speed. Lure depth presentation is key, color or action is secondary IMO. When the fish are on, they're on and they'll hit anything you properly present to them. s56

From the walleyes I've seen in aquariums they're black, so I suspect they turn white when they're out of the water for a prolonged period of time.

Simple pattern Ben, black with orange belly.

I concur 100% on your method Junebug. I'm currently using the exact same method ( found here on TU by another muskie lure builder SPG) except I use it on cedar with 3/8'' oak, maple or birch dowels. The reason I don't use balsa is that it's too soft for muskies. But you know, I may just try it just for kicks on my glide baits and see how many muskies it's going to take to actually have one destroyed. I bet just a couple! Good post! s56