Seeking 56

For now I'm still hanging my baits after I e-tex them. Is it possible to make this epoxy run faster? Gravity isn't working fast enough for me on some new prototypes. I'm getting some excess run off from the lip and it's pooling half way down the bait. I don't like the idea of using less hardener. Is there any other way? Thanks s56

Thanks BobP! s56

I'm thinking about building a drying wheel this winter. After doing a search I came across the one pictured here. Any pros and cons in having the lures turn head first (vertically) all the time as opposed to having them turning horizontally like quickdraws? s56

Have you thought about sanding the bottom flat on a belt sander?

Although brake fluid works well on plastics, I've stopped using it on baits larger than 4'', instead I choose to wet sand with 120 grit. Faster and less messy. On wood, I sand to bare wood with 80 grit. I only use it to re-paint baits like this.( See below) Baits that have molded scales patterns or are embossed. I use an acid brush to apply the brake fluid use the same brush to remove the flaking paint. On bare plastics I use rattlecan white. If the lures have features like in this picture, I'll use flat white. Everything else semi-gloss or gloss. It adheres really well and I save the priming stage. I use rattlecans personally to paint but I have a friend who airbrushes and uses rattlecan paint as a base on wood or plastic. s56

Other than their specific shapes, the coarseness seems to be the same on all of them. I bought a specific one from a set of 6. They're the 6'' ones. Check them out here: Leevalley.com s56

You should get yourself a curved riffler as well, more control around contours and not as aggresive as a rasp. I've eliminated sanding with this tool. s56

For those who use them, have you noticed a catch % increase or decrease in clear and stained waters? What I like about them is you can color them with sharpies. I really like the effect it has on them especially with orange. Since I haven't caught with them yet, I'm starting to reconsider going back to the traditional brown / black. s56

Tater Hog, KelpRitter, well said, there are no rules in fishing. But I would rather remove a 10'' bait out of a 50+ inch fish's mouth than perform surgery to remove an inhaled 2'' bait and risk killing it. s56

joliepa, don't over think it, just supersize a walleye lure. A 2x4 is perfect, use cedar. The pikie has produced some big muskies over the years and supersizing one with a different lip has been in the back of my mind for a while. MS, those are some beautiful baits! Attached are pics of what happens when you use pine for toothy critters. This is a friend's lure he made a few years ago. The result of catching just 1 pike. Water penetrated and expanded. s56

Mark, It's not what I'm experimenting with but I may just try that idea, thanks. Woodie, although I " T " my hooks, I believe hook rash is synonymous with trolling, that's one of the reason my trolling baits are bait out of cedar or mahogany since they don't absorb water. I'm convinced the sound the hooks emit attracts muskies. And yes, building larger baits is adictive. My most recent one was a 13'' straight Believer, probably my most challenging lure ever. I was out testing some new designs made with stainless lips on the 40 today. s56

I agree with what Woodie says except for the fact that wire thru IMO is not necessary for all baits regardless of wood used except for perhaps for balsa (which you shouldn't be using in the first place for musky) .092 screw eyes anchored properly will never fail. I got some pretty good tips here on TU in fact. I can see thru wire on jointed crankbaits where both halves connect though. It's the only place where I would see it beneficial as screw eyes will loosen but again, not necessarily fail. I personally don't do wire thru as I can't justify all that extra work especially when the screw eye method hasn't failed me yet. Something else will fail before the screw eyes do. I am currently experimenting with a different hook hanger for cedar that should prove stronger than screw eyes and thru wire, gotta apease the nay sayers who really have no clue about lure buiding you know! As for woods, maple, oaks, cedars, mahoganey are my favorites. s56

You should be able to remove the waves by wet sanding with 220 grit. Let dry, apply another coat and hang it from the opposite end. It usually happens to me when I use E-tex on textured surfaces. s56

So, I bought a new rattle can color called Pearl Mist. It's seems semi transparent as it comes out of the can. I have no experience with this color. Assuming you guys were using a similar color with an airbrush,would you apply it over an existing color / pattern scheme or use it as a base and spray over it? Also, what colors would you guys use it with? Much appreciated. s56

Mark, I found that on some gliders I've made, drilling out stock out of the top of the bait and filling with packing foam made the lure more buoyant. Drilling out ballast for me has changed the action on my gliders. Something to consider. s56

I've tried glitter out of a tube, it seems like it's mixed with gel. It spreads nice with a acid brush and once dried, works well with E-tex. I made a beautiful mooneye pattern using silver glitter....lure doesn't catch a @#$% thing! Buddy covered a AC Plug with that same kind of stuff in dark green and got a 45'' tiger! s56

I haven't used Krylon yet but Rustoleum has come out with a new glitter (gold an silver). Works really well, no residue and easily brushes off if you've put too much. No haze either. Just make sure you store the can at room temperature, unlike regular paint it doesn't shoot thru if it's been in the cold. s56

I recently put an order through NJ Tackle. I expressed on their comments area that I wanted the cheapest shipping available. They actually called me long distance the same night I placed the order to make sure I was aware that it would come USPS. Order shipped same night, got it within a week as ordered. I'm very impressed with their service! s56

Which are the best guides or rods to run monel wire? May convert an existing rod or flat out buy a rod that can handle monel. Thanks s56

Much appreciated Jerry, going to check that link. Yeah, that was me Ben. Thanks guys. s56

bassguy, I hooked on to one trolling the Larry yesterday, never saw it 'cause it straightened a 5/0 3x hook.........Anybody have a source for Barbarian 6x 5/0 and up trebles?

Ok good to know. What about substituting DN for E-tex? If and when I decide to go the airbrush route I was thinking about using E-tex. s56

Thanks Diemai! Ben, you have no idea! LoL! Honestly, really? Having problems with rattle cans? I don't get it.... IMO It's probably the best base coat on plastics, you get a better bond and you're eliminating the priming stage. s56

Griffond, the wood I used for this one was Brazilian Cherry aka Jatoba. You can use the pic of the " accidental crackle" as a template I posted in the gallery a while ago. This one was 1'' thick and 9'' long.

Thanks. Nah, the last I time I thinkered with a lure it never caught fish again. This was my 4th generation glider that someone had bought. He loved it so much he had me build another. Curious to see what it looks like now. Not particularly a very user friendly glider by any means...designed to fish drop offs and open water. Sinks real fast. Much to my amazement, this fellow was contacting fish with a subsurface walk the dog retrieve.