Seeking 56

Bought some plastic blanks, drilled out the rattles and filled the cavity with some PVC epoxy putty. What is every one else using to fill the cavity as this stuff is not readily available. Thanks s54

Do you dip in acetone to give the primer more bite? I ask because I purchased some unpainted plastic blanks and I was just going to rattlebomb paint directly to the plastic. Don't want to hi-jack this thread but for the airbrush guys, have you tried priming with rattlecan paint (not primer) and then airbrushing over? The last few wooden lures I've done, I omitted the primer and sprayed directly on the sealer (Titebond 3 waterproof wood glue). I gotten great results. I'm starting to notice that sealing with Titebond, it's not necessary to prime. Thanks s54

For me, putting 3 layers of clearcoat on my 8''glidebaits changes the action. They're not as subtle. This is why now I only put 2. On my lipped baits of the same size I keep 3 and it makes no difference since the bill commands the action. If I was going to make a hunter personally, I'd start off by offsetting the ballast more to one side of the bait instead of dead center and then compensate with the line tie to make it track. I'd be very curious to know how it turns out RBG. s54

Interesting. Are you doing it this way because you're using a wood softer than cedar? With all due respect, it seems like uncessary work for cedar and harder wood baits. That's why I'm curious as to what type of wood you're using. On my cedar baits I used the fence post concept ( that's what I call it ). Drill pilot hole the lenght of the screw eye, then bore half way with 3/8'' forstner bit, fill with thicked epoxy, insert screw eye. I got the suggestion here on TU for cedar a few years ago and it has not failed me yet. As of lately, on my jointed crankbaits I took it a step further and twisted softer wire counter clock wise around the screw eye and inserted in the bored hole filed with epoxy. I don't do this for the hook hangers yet, just the jointed parts of the bait where the impact of snags or fish could weaken it over time. s54

Get yourself some Eagle Claw 774. You won't need to sharpen those. One of my partners is constantly sharpening his hooks and when he gets misses on topwaters, I razz him about his hooks not being sharp enough....drives him absolutely wild! If you zig when the fish is zagging it won't matter how sharp your hooks are. s54

Things to consider, one is adding weight by upgrading your hook size. Perhaps just the one in the front to start off, should level it. If not try with 3 . If that doesn't work, not knowing how thick it is, add about 1/2 an once of lead just behind the first hook or about 1/4 way down the bait. Try to add it in a vertical position but do not cross the halfway point of the lure. This will bring the nose down a little and should not affect the action. Remember to tweak the line tie if it doesn't run straight. s54

Seems to me the snap is upside down. Shouldn't the round connector eye be above the lip? s54

I'm a troller so this is not directed to casting with wire leaders but more towards trolling with wire leaders. Sure, a musky will not bite through wire but can and will snap a lure off at it's weakest link, the looped part where the snap is attached. It's a false sense of security when trolling. Single strand wire will fatigue and you have no way of knowing when it's going to fail unless you're using multi strand where you will see the strands coming apart. With fluoro you will be able to see the nicks and even then, on 150lbs test? I wouldn't concern myself...I'm still using some leaders from 3 years ago. The snap is the main concern, to which I change often. If you're casting with wire, the initial impact of a hit is not as severe like when you're trolling. A big musky will alligator roll on your line and if you're using wire it will seriously injure itself. To my chagrin...I've had to experience this. There are benefits to trolling wire such as the harmonics it produces. But there is a proper way of rigging something like this and that is to use wire as the main line and use a minimum of a 3' 150 lbs fluoro leader as a shock absorber. The biggest musky of my life was lost trolling using a single strand wire leader........ But that's another story. @ Diemai, Although I disagree with you in this case my friend, you backed it up and that I respect! s54

Why is that Musky Glenn?

Sorry, I meant HR's Shaker.

I got one from Bill a few years back and it's a floater as well...not what I was expecting but I'm sure it has it's application nonetheless. HR's Hughey is a well crafted one as well. Ahhhh that elusive 50'' LoL! I've been targeting larger muskies as of the last few years, they're definetly a different beast. I have to wait for June as well. Tight lines to you too! s54

I personally wouldn't alter the bait but If I was building one, I would consider these two options. Wood type and ballast placement. To achieve the action you're looking for, I would place 1/2 oz of lead halfway between the belly and nose hangers. I use hardwoods for my gliders but for this application I would try 7/8'' cedar and I would bore 3 holes in the back 5/8'' in diameter 1/2'' apart and 1/2'' deep out of the back as close to the tail section without compromising the integrity of the lure. Then I would fill these 3 holes with packing foam. Now, the path of least resistance on this lure should be the tail. Therefore if the nose of the bait is pointed downwards, it should rise diagonally tail first on the pause. The 9'' gliders I make suspend horizontally when jerked or pulled. I designed them that way so they stay in the strike zone. But now that you brought this topic up, I just may have to try your idea myself LoL!! s54

Keep it simple guys, were not dealing with plutonium here.....make a few blanks, bore some holes, insert some ballast, go out and throw them. That's where your knowledge will come from. Trial and error not complicated theories. Good for you Gino for figuring it for yourself! By the way Mark, that was mahogany laminated with Brazilian ebony..... s54

Fantastic R&D Sbaits! Rowhunter and Griffond I share the same sentiment as far as comparing wood and PVC. Except, imagine trolling a lure 8-9 mph and a 50lb + musky coming the other way decides to hit your lure at full speed ? A guide once told me he experienced this happening to him, it was fish of a lifetime.... and it took 2 treble hooks along with him. If you're chasing supertankers I don't think you can afford to under engineer your musky lures. s54

diemai, The curved glider seems to have a lot of potential just from how you described it's action and the way you retrieve it. This may very well be a finesse lure that's most effective in certain conditions ( approaching cold front, colder late season water temperatures) .....could I perhaps suggest the following colors; all white, black with gold scales, all white with chrome or silver scales, firetiger. For me, these colors have been successful with muskies. Let me know. s54

I like the way you say it was only a 8lb LoL! If you anticipate catching larger pike you're going to have to consider another type of wood. A big pike, like the muskies we have up here will crush balsa regardless of what kind of topcoat you use. Consider this, balsa has a hardness rating of 100 lb-f vs cedar that has 900 lb-f. s54

I like that lure diemai! s54

Gotta love another musky fisherman who chases cats! Welcome! Incidentally, what's your favorite bait for cats? I do well with raw shrimps. s54

@ diemai The effects of going horizontally. In the case of a drop belly glider, boring through the belly ( front to back ) at the widest part of where the shape of the belly starts to drop. This would cause the ballast to sit higher in the bait. Having the same quantity of ballast positioned horizontally vs vertically. In your experience would this be detrimental to the action? Thanks s54

@ diemai. What has been your experience with placing ballast horizontally in a glider. Thanks s54

You could also use a coping saw. s54

I prefer perfectly horizontal. Joe

Totally agree! The colour is secondary. Lures require certain characterics ( wobbles ) when they're used for trolling but when casting them, they're only as good as the angler who uses them. In the case of triggering neutral muskies for example, certain baits ( gliders, jerkbaits ) require finesse and subtle movements that can only be achieved by the angler. Many musky anglers swear by the colour black. Go figure! s54

If Devcon is anything like e-tex and someone please correct me if i'm wrong but you need to create the bubbles. You need to stir it fast as the bubbles create the catalyst required for the epoxy to bond. I use equal parts using a medicinal measuring cup. These cups have cc's, ml's, drams, oz and tbs written on them. I initially pour the resin and hardener in two seperate nylon bottles (like ketchup bottles) and squeeze the required quantity directly into to the cup using the cup's measurements. As an example, I fill resin to 2oz and then the hardener to 4oz. Mix vigoursly for 2 minutes,( bubbles are so thick that everything will look white) let set for a minute. Use a straw to blow out the bubbles( Don't strive to blow out all the bubbles initially ). Wait 2-3 minutes then apply the epoxy to the lure. Blow the bubbles that are left on the lure with the straw and you will see the bubbles disipate. Be carefull not to blow too hard as you don't want the water that gets formed in the straw to get on the lure. If you're still having problems with Devcon, swtich over to e-tex. s54