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I know , I know, not another eye question. I searched through the archives but could find the answer I was looking for. I've been using molded eyes for my baits but want something a little more realistic. I have some artwork that I've done and want to now give it some dimension. Would devcon work if I mixed some up and let it sit for awhile then pour/drip it down onto my art. Another option. Should I be painting the actual devcon eye form. Maybe drip it onto a wax paper and paint the back. How are those of you that are making their own eyes doing it? I suppose I could by some blanks, but I'd like to try to make them if possible. Thanks All.

That's exactly what's happening. Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try tomorrow. That combined with a decent bit should have me heading in the right direction.

I think that you've hit it right on the head with a slight change in the ducks posture. Head down and trying to make it to any cover available. Great work on the little quaker Diemai. Keep going with it.

They make tools specifically for that. I have a jig I made to do this. Here's a link to give you an idea. Buy Steel Center Finder, Steel Center Finder, Measuring Tools - Woodcraft.com

I've tried top coating with a swimbait together, I've found it easier to do them individually. As far as time between coats, I've been putting another coat on at about 6-7 hours. The first coat will be hard enough to touch but not completely set up. I think you may get better adheassion too when it's not entirely dry. I'm relatively new to bait building so hopefully some of the more seasoned builders will chime in.

Sure do. Broken shovel handles even some closet rod from time-to-time. Starting out with a round stock speeds things up. Other times when I'm after a specific type of wood I head to the lumber store but even then I'll check to see if it's available in dowel form

Thanks Phil. I think the high quality bits may be part of my problem, that and confidence through practice. I picked a marginal at best pack of 6 bits at a equally cheap price. I'll have to pick up a couple new bits and give it a go.

When I run baits through on my router table to do say a .25" or .375" shoulder or belly occasionally when I get to the nose or tail I'll get some tear out or chunk the wood. Not to mention when the wood jumps around like that all I think about is a finger getting messed up. I start by tracing the basic form on a squared piece of wood drill any holes for thru-wire or lead if I know the exact amounts needed. I then take the bait to the band saw and cut the form and then onto the router table. I move the bait from right-to-left but when I get the nose I sometimes get tear out. I've seen guys on youtube show how they do it and they are just whipping through the wood with no problems, all free-hand as I do. I was reading the "swim bait joints" thread in the forum and Snax mentioned clamps. What are you guys doing, are you using clamps or a different technique? Any help appreciated.

Lately I've been using gorilla glue. No problems with it other than a little extra clean up. Tends to expand but if you watch it while it dries you can clean the joints as it dries.

I've yet to venture into the pvc world but I'm thinking about it. My guess is that the pvc is more predictable from bait to bait. Maybe not, maybe more or less air within the cells from area to area. Most of what I build is out of cedar which is quite buoyant and I weight it accordingly but the action is lively. What can I expect from pvc for action and what type of wood would you compare it to for action? Thanks