68KingFisher

I can only assume you ment Paasche and not Panache?.......Paasche does make a quality airbrush(I own several)but they don't make these little 1/10hp compressors that i'm aware of(i've owned several of them too)....i'm not sure who makes them now....used to be the Brown company years ago....several companies put their names on the same unit, paint them a different color, and call them "airbrush compressors"....So you'd think they'd be perfect for airbrushing, but the reality is they are not......they are one notch better than the canned air sold for airbrushing, and those things are completely worthless so don't waste yer money on them either. Paasche's own sales ad say's this about the D500 unit in question....."Economical and suitable for all airbrushes spraying properly thinned fluids......Now read that again....Properly thinned fluids!!!!....that last word is the key.....fluids not paint.....water thin fluids will flow thru an airbrush just fine using those little compressors.....illustrators using Golden artist paints get decent results because Golden paints are thin as water and most illustrators use gravity feed brushes which require less air....but if you plan of pushin Createx or Aquaflow or most any of the cheap acrylic paints sold in the craft section of Walmart thru a bottom feed airbrush then your gonna need more air pressure then those little units can supply....period. Their sales ad also says "It is capable of delivering up to 40 lbs of pressure".....to which I say "Bull hockey"....aint never gonna happen....if you could build that much pressure you'd loose half of it the instant you pressed the trigger on your airbrush......the ad goes on to say that the unit "delivers .5 C.F.M. @ 20 p.s.i."....thats alot more realistic.....20psi is about all the pressure you could expect on a constant basis, and that might even be pushin it..... most folks find that Createx needs more pressure to flow thru a bottom feed airbrush without having to really overthin the paint to get it to do so. Can you use these little units for minimal airbrush needs.....you bet.....will you want something better later on?.....Almost certainly.....Should you go ahead and get a better unit to begin with that in most cases will cost less money?.....Yup,I think so.....use those toy compressors to inflate your beachballs and pool toys with....maybe air up a flat tire on the kids bicycle with it....but not for continuous airbrush duty.....but then again if you have a better unit you can air up all yer toys with it....only faster....lol Look....I don't mean to sound like a knowitall about these things cause i'm not....but i've been airbrushin along time, and i've tried a bunch of different compressors and airbrushes over the past 30yrs and trust me when I say "if your serious about airbrushing on a regular basis then you don't want one of those little 1/10hp units".....you'll want something bigger.

I just sealed a few so I used my paintgun holder/strainer rack to hang the lures above the can so they'd drip into it...i'll probably do something different later but for now this worked ok.

Thanks for the link.....Guess i'll go your route instead of messing with the wire i've got....too bad since i've got a 5lb spool of this stuff....I need to figure out some kinda use for it....lol

Ok, it sounds like my wire is too small and possibly too soft so i'll reserve its use for other stuff.....right now i'm just using it to hang my baits with after dipping in sealer....lol. I would like to ask about the annealing process......Can someone explain how to do this.....I saw Jesse James anneal a sheet of aluminum on his bike building show several years ago using a cutting torch that had a big sooty flame....but they only touched on the subject breifly, and I never really knew what he did....nor that you could undo it after your forming was done....I'd love to know more.

I ran across a big ol roll of stainless steel stitcher wire in a box in the garage that came from my days working in the printing industry....the wire is the same stuff that holds magazines together....like staple material....it is a round wire and meaures out to be .020"......would this stuff work for thru the bait wire or is it too thin?

Ok, I decided to go ahead and seal a few topwater plugs with the above posted poly, and I learned two things real quick.....its thicker then what I expected right outta the can and worked ok for dipping, but I think it might of worked better if it had been a bit thinner.....and secondly and probably the most important thing I learned was DONT shake the can of poly right before you dip your baits.....unless you want them covered in bubbles.....lol8O

I've found lots of good painting info in past threads on this forum by using the search feature, so don't overlook that......as for the compressor I feel this way about them.....Every man needs one in his garage....and we should all follow what Tim the tool man Taylor would say....get the biggest,baddest one you can....Ar,ar,ar.....lol....most guys will find other uses for it....specially if your mechanicly inclined and tinker with your car or bike or boat or?? Actually, those little oil-less diapham compressors such as that Paasche unit, aren't really up to the job of keepin up with a standard airbrush using acrylic paints....they are ok if your an illustrator using water thin paints, but in reality they just can't put out the pressures needed when using thicker acrylic paints such as Createx......plus they don't have a storage tank so they run all the time and overheating and premature wear becomes an issue...not to mention most of them pulse real bad so you can forget about getting smooth fades......you can get whats known as a mini regulator/water trap combo from most wholesale tool places, like Harbor Freight.....but if I were you i'd just put the money towards a bigger better unit....something with a storage tank....i've seen small 2gal units at Walmart for around $50 or so that come with the same mini regulator/water trap I mentioned.....I think Lowes and those types of stores carry a couple of small units that are comparable....for the money you'd be gettin alot more compressor that'll last longer in most cases.....but be forewarned....some of them can be quite noisy....oil filled units are quiter than oil-less units in most cases.....shop around a bit before you buy another one and I think you'll find something alot better for the same money as the Paasche unit. Createx is available from stores like Hobby lobby and Michaels as well as various hobby and r/c shops.....and of course ordered online from places like Coast airbrush dot com or Dixie art dot com or Bearair dot com depending on what part of the country you wanna buy from. Do you already have an airbrush?.....if not you might wanna look back thru some recent threads posted here about airbrushes in general....might help you make better purchases then just goin with those spur of the moment ones.

Theres alot of airbrushing info posted on this forum if you'll dig thru the old threads using the search engine....there are also alot of videos posted on Youtube and other video sharing sites that show people using the airbrush....i'd also recommend droppin in on sites like Airbrush.com and look thru their how-to's....Learnairbrush.com or Airbrushtech.net all have how-to sections and tons of good info for the beginner.....There is alot of airbrushing how-to's on the web once you get to lookin around.....Unfortunately, not too many of them are about painting lures...there are some just not alot....but if you'll combine everything you see from all the sites you'll get a handle on it....lol In a nut shell, you need an airbrush and an air source....preferably a compressor with a storage tank....and some paint and your ready to start spraying....don't start painting your best lure just yet....start out by gettin a bit of practice familierizing yourself with the airbrush by just spraying on some paper or a piece of cardboard or ?....alot of tee shirt airbrushers use a roll of paper towels thats hung above their easel, and they just unroll the next towel to paint on....cheap and easy for practice.....a little spray glue on a peice of cardboard behind the towels holds them in place so the air doesn't blow'em around....Practice doing fades....see what happens when you move the airbrush up close to the surface away from the surface.....practice fading one color into another and see what happens....see what happens when you point the airbrush straight at the surface and what happens when you tilt the brush left or right....airbrushing is about controling air and paint...that means controling where the paint goes....you'll quickly learn how overspray can go everywhere without control.....control takes practice....now that your feeling good grab a piece of metal or aluminum to paint on...something with a hard surface and practice your fades and details again....painting on a plastic lid from a rattecan might be good practice for painting plastic cranks....now jump on your lures and you'll be alot more prepaired. An airbrush is nothing more then a tool, but just so you'll know...learning to use that tool takes a bit of getting used to....specially if you get a dual action airbrush(which I highly recommend if your serious)...just expect a bit of frustration with it at first....its a combination of learning the capabilities of the brush, and learning how to reduce your paints....you'll learn to listen to your airbrush....it'll tell you when the paint is too thick and needs to be thinned....it'll tell you that you have an airleak and thats why your brush is spittin and sputtering...lol. The airbrush is an amazing tool and in practiced hands can produce amazing results....but like anything it takes some practice, but if you'll keep at it you'll get the hang of it, and then the tool becomes an extention of our hand and works like second nature without you thinking about it.....thats when you can start having fun with it:wink:

I think the #3 is the most versital of the three sizes......Use #1 when you need smaller detail then you can get from the #3......or use #5 when shootin thicker viscosity paints or primers....heck I have even shot final clearcoats thru a #5.....but all in all the #3 is usually your best bet.

I realized I had two quarts of this stuff in the shop when I went to move all my paints the other day.....Do you guys think this would work as a sealer for wood baits before painting?....It says right on the can that it can be used as a sealer for wood, but I wanted some opinions from you guys before I wasted my time with it.

You can shoot a micro sized or ultra mini sized flake thru a #3 or #5 VL,....plus regular pearls, as well as whats known as "ice pearls"....anything bigger will most likely cause you lots of clogging issues.

Come on.....you still got my phone number dontcha?.....just give me a shout and we'll work out a time.

Naaaaaw....I'm a neat freak...lol....it'll never be much dirtier then it is right now or i'll go crazy till its clean....I'm kinda OCD about that...lol....In a month or so the only difference will be the addition of some murals on the walls....lol Interesting tip on using a fridge.....too bad I just gave one away a few months back, but it was a workin fridge and I donated it to a needy family.....I am keepin my eye's open for a used fireproof cabinet since i've bout got enough to fill one...lol

Well i'm basicly finished with the paintbooth......except for the fact that i'm a terrible electrician and burned the high speed outta my exhaust fan when I wired it up incorrectly....Grrrrrrrrrr:censored: But i'll get my hands on another one later...they aren't too expensive...in the mean time i'll be using low and medium speeds only...lol. Lastly I was fortunate enough to have a buddy stop by and gave me an old wood kitchen cabinet that I decided to use for paint storage and a small bench....its gonna work out great other then once I started puttin my paints and stuff in there I quickly realized I had alot more then I realized....hahahaha....comes from years of being a packrat....lol....Heck I even found a full set of VanDykes taxidermy paints that I forgot I had...lol Well, I hope you guys got something from my build....I know its not exactly what the majority of you need in a paintbooth, but my hopes were that a few of you would take some of my ideas to use in your own setup one day.....It was completely built from scrap lumber and the only cash outlay was for drywall mud and tape, and some caulk and primer......it ain't no fancy high dollar store bought booth, but it'll do everything this poor boy might ever want to do. and then some....Thanks for lookin.

Many brands of automotive clear coats will also cause the mirra chrome to turn dull and look like aluminum instead of chrome.....you must use Alsa's clear that they recommend if you want the correct results....everything else is a crap shoot.....from what I know of the product its the slow curing time of the top coat that kills the chromes shine....Alsa's Speed clear is the only clear I know of that'll work.

I don't know if this helps or not, but I just received a Hagens components catalog in the mail today and from what I can tell, they show their screw eyes selling for $20-$33 per 1000. You might want to check them out at www.hagensfish.com

Al, I am sorry to hear about your situation and wish there was something I could do to help....unfortunately I'm not in a position to help out financially or I would....specially concidering you were kind enough to donate some of your lure bodies and components to me recently....I wish I knew of another way I could help you aquire the components your needing but as you know I'm a rank newbie at this stuff.....Some of these posted suggestions might be just the help your lookin for....I dunno....let us know how things turn out, or if theres anything I could do personally just give me shout.

Thats the same stuff i'm talkin about....its made by Alsa.....$70 for 4oz thru Coast airbrush.....and the "Killer chrome" is just mirra chrome packaged in spraycans. when you do everything right you can get results like this helmet...(no I didn't paint it)...however its easy to mess things up and end up with a something that looks more like aluminum and less like chrome....but when everything works right the results are impressive to say the least.

It is true, that alot of the rattlecan clears will get cloudy or milky looking if used during high humidity conditions....Make sure to read all the directions on the can.....most say something about about humidity and temps as well as recoat and drying times. I dunno bout your neck of the woods, but here in Arkansas its been pretty darn humid recently.....i'd be willing to bet thats what happened to you.

Thats about right BobP......even then there are a whole lot of folks that want their helmets chromed until I tell them how much its gonna cost.....thats when they all decide the chrome is a luxury they can live without....lol...can't say's I blame them.

It ain't that bad Pete....lol...its not like i'm windtunnel testing Nascar race bodies in there....lol......Actually, I hooked up the fan and did a test run yesterday, and I was very pleased with the results....its not a windtunnel....but it will vent out anything in the shop rather quickly.....I was sanding the drywall mud yesterday and all that white powder was falling to the floor, so once I got done sanding, I kicked on the exhaust fan and then hit the powder on the floor with my airgun....boy did that raise a white cloud of dust in the shop....hehehe....but, the fans pulled it right out...in just a few seconds the shop was clear.....So i'm sure its gonna work well for paint fumes and overspray.

I know....its crazy isn't it....a 1 pint kit that contains a pint of mirror chrome, black basecoat, clearcoat, and reducer is $350.

I can't say for sure what Bill Norman uses, but these guys makes the best chrome paint on the market... The Worlds most Exotic Paint .....Look at either the "Killer chrome" or "Chrome FX"....i'd be willing to bet a company like Norman lures would use the Chrome FX system....watch some of the videos on their site about the stuff and you'll see what I mean.

The Cresendo from Badger is very simular to the Paasche VL series....both come with fine,med,large tips and needles....only Paasche labels them #1,#3,#5. For most of what your gonna be using this brush for i'd suggest using the medium size needle and tip.....I think that'll do about anything you want for starters.....once you get a feel for it you might find you'll want to experiment with the other tip sizes so you'll know how they perform. As for what to use for clean up, that depends on what your spraying....if your just shooting Createx then a little soapy water makes for a great cleaning solution.....Just a few drops of liquid soap is usually more then enough. As for painting a new crankbait right out of the package.....from what I understand you'll want to scuff the surface of the new crankbait so your new paint will have some (tooth) to grab ahold of and will help the paint stick.....i'd probably use something like a scotchbrite pad for starters, but i've read where guys just use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.....I can't say for sure since I haven't done this yet.....I suppose its like anything else, you'll just have to experiment with that a bit to find what works the best for you. Enjoy your new airbrush and be sure to post your progress.

Well I finished building both exhaust filter towers this afternoon....I need to do a bit of caulking and then run the wiring for the fan switch and i'll be good to go....once i've got the walls painted i'll post a final set of pics....I'm really excited to finally have a decent paintbooth.....thanks for lookin.