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Basschamp167

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Everything posted by Basschamp167

  1. Hey all, Does anyone have a good supplier for bulk amounts of Envirotex Lite? I've been able to find some half gallon kits but nothing more. Thanks, Zach
  2. Hey folks, I'm starting to get back into lure building after a 2 year hiatus. I used to make mostly muskie lures, but I want to start making suspending jerkbaits for bass. I want to make my diving lips from G10 circuit board but I am not sure how I would go about cutting it. I would assume a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel would do? Thanks, Zach
  3. I fish for muskie here in New Jersey. Are you looking for someone to test your baits for you? And as far as fish hurting your lures, they will certainly test your topcoating and sealing skills, if thats what you mean.
  4. I use acid flux brushed from Home Depot, in the plumbing section. 24 cents each, not a bad deal.
  5. Hey that cleared a lot of things up for me. The only real reason I thought I needed it was for paint adhesion. You are right, I should just ditch it. Most of the lures I make now I seal with 4 or 5 coats of polycrylic, but I think I'm going to make the switch to sanding sealer or propionate for muskie lures. The polycrylic just doesn't penetrate enough, IMHO. Thanks alot!
  6. Alright, and I plan on applying the primer over a couple coats of minwax polycrylic, which is water based, and then createx paints, with a top coat of devcon.
  7. Hey everyone, Does anyone use BIN brush on primer before they paint? I just found a bunch of this stuff in my basement and I'm wondering how well it will work for me. Thanks, Zach
  8. Also, I'm not sure if diemai noted this, but watch the line tie. I made a while back a 9 inch deep diving bait with a large lip, about 2.24" long, and the key for me was where i had the line tie. I had to experiment a lot with it and found that the best place was a little shorter than 1/2 times the overall length of the lip. For instance, for a 2.5 inch lip, i would place my line tie anywhere from 1" to 1.2" from the rear of the lip. Hope this helps a little. You can PM me with quiestions and i might be able to send you a pircture or two. Thanks, Zach
  9. You gotta pack it first...helps it "soak" in! Hehe its a bad joke..yeah try thinning it down. happened to me when i first tried dipping baits in polycrylic...lots of it would bead up on the bottom of the lure. ended up actually just brushing it on.
  10. There are also a few good videos in Youtube by the company Tapp Plastics on how to make a two art mold. Just go you youtube.com and type in the search bar "how to make a mold" and it should come up. Also, do you guys know if i could use Alumilite RTV molds, such as the HSIII, to mold featherlite into? Thanks!!!
  11. Hey guys, i have a raised grain problem too when sealing my baits with Minwax Polycrylic. I normally do 1 coat and then sand the bait smooth and add a few more coats of the polycrylic. My question is, does it matter f you sand against the grain or with the grain after sealing? Thanks
  12. Hello everybody, I am looking into casting a bunch of muskie glide baits out of Aluminite resin. I have never used the stuff before, or any resin for that matter, but I have done some research and I believe Aluminite is what I want. The glide baits i want to make will sink, which is one reason why I am choosing Aluminite. A few questions now: 1.) Would the hooks on the lure act alone as enough ballast to keep the lure upright in the water and prevent it from turning over/flipping? 2.) Would I be able to use POP as a mold for casting the resin? Or would I need to make an RTV mold? 3.) As far as hooks hangers go, would I be able to use Brass Sinker Eyelets? Such as these: Do-It Brass Sinker Eyelets ? Or would I need to make these baits thru-wire? Thanks a bunch guys!!!
  13. Basschamp167

    Plastic glider

    Hello. I just wanted to know, what type of resin did you use for casting those? I was thinking of using aluminite, but ive heard it sinks fairly quickly, and i like my gliders to somewhat suspend/have neutral buoyancy.
  14. Basschamp167

    Threadfin Shad

    Nice bait fatfingers, would you care to demonstrate for us that painting method with a straw?
  15. Basschamp167

    1 1/2" balsa cranks

    Wow! The amount of detail on these cranks is ridiculous!!! Very well done!!
  16. Hey all, Skeeter, what type of cranks do you make? Because I am thinking that Devcon would be a better alternative than etex for the muskie lures I make, but I am still not sure whether 2 or 3 coats of Etex would be better that 1 coat of devcon. I understand that they both are very different, and it depends upon the application of the lure to decide which would be better. Also, how does Etex stand up to hook rash? I know that Devcon's weakness is hook rash, and since i will most likely fish with every lure I make, I want to make sure that it won't be a huge problem. It seems that Etex may be OK for the lures that we (muskyswab and I) make, although more than 1 coat may be needed. He (muskyswab) recently coated a lure with Etex, but when it "cured" so to speak, it was soft and somewhat pliable. He went on to add another coat, and the end result was amazing! The lure was hard as a rock, and it shined beautifully.He still has a little Etex left and my order of Devcon should be here by the weekend, so the only thing we will have to do is test. Hopefully if his or my dad is feeling up to it and wants to take us muskie fishing on Saturday, we might be able to test our lures and post our findings back up here. Wow that was long, sorry for making you all read that. Basschamp
  17. Yeah that is definitely true. I have seen blades for about $20, though. Were your blades that expensive because where you live? Or because you had 50 made lol.
  18. Hey, Do you guys use a thinner blade for cutting out your baits? Or is the stock blade that it comes with fine?
  19. Hey all, I agree with silverdoctor. The bottles will last must longer. In fact, the 9 ounce bottles are equivalent to equivalent to about 11 syringes. 11 syringes, at about 3 dollars each, is 33 dollars, without shipping. The 9 ounce bottles are less that half that, at about 12 dollars without shipping. IMHO get the bottles, they are much more cost efficient and mill last much longer. P.S. I really shouldn't be telling you guys this, but the website www.hobbylinc.com has the 9 ounce bottles for very cheap, $11.89 to be exact, with 6 dollar shipping. Just go to the website and search "Devcon." Best deal around IMO.
  20. Oh swab, what have you gotten yourself into this time. I definitely agree with mark about improper mixing. We have been eyeballing etex when mixing, which is a no-no. I really want to see how this Devcon ends up though. Try coating one of those baits you have sitting in your garage with etex again, but make sure you measure ver carefully.
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