jameso321

I almost exclusively use Etex now. Envirotex Lite from ac moores

Thanks very much for the recommend. How long have you been using this?

Dean, I appreciate your input. Thanks.

Yeah I spoke to them. The 2/0 saltwater hooks that I am looking for are 70 cents each in orders of 250 minimum. I am currently using VMC 9626PS which are the community favorite and are 21 cents each. I would love to get my hands on some of the owners because they look wicked; do some testing, this and that. I am still looking for the VMC's in orders or 1000 though to hopefully get the price down a bit more. https://www.ownerhooks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=40&osCsid=ece6afe2e827a63372f17a885a5497e4 thanks guys

Unless I misread something, the price for Owner in small quantity for their best saltwater treble was 2$ EACH holy cow Anyways, I sent them a mail asking for the 1000 piece price, but somehow I cant see it being much less. How was matzuo prices?

So, how many minutes with a hair dryer on high with a 2-3 ounce bait would you consider is thorough heat set? Also, I do have a proper heat gun, but that gets very hot. Can be used as well? I would like to not burn the bait. Thanks

Etex and D. Alcohol (50/50 to 66/33 range of ratio) and heating up plugs a bit in oven (optional) is possibly the best sealing method there is, in my opinion. Etex/D. Alcohol penetrates wood grain, then it cures. You end up with 100% sealed, hardened, and durable lure compared to most other methods. Tip: get two 16 oz. solo beer cups, poor the solution from cup to cup and all over and inside of the lure. It takes about 20 seconds to seal a 2-3 ounce lure. You can prime from 24-48 hours depending on several factors. Scuff or lightly sand, then prime. Really cant say enough good things about this method

1" Sponge brush + epoxy = thin

There are simple ones. Devcon 2-Ton 30 minute epoxy and Envirotex Lite epoxy (etex) of the two, I guess the Devcon would be the most simple altough I use etex for its longer working time and few other reasons -=-=- Neither requires a spinner when you use thin coat.

Pretty sure I heard him say balsa.

ooooh what is this gem?

He took nearly three months to get back to me. He did e-mail me back and finally sent a sample. I am not sure what the deal is with that. I ended up ordering a small can of Pelucid which is the same thing, afaik POR-15 Outlet - POR15*::*Search results When the weather warms up, I plan on starting to use this stuff. I do plan on getting some from DN too if he decides to answer e-mails or phone.

I started working with prop. last year. I was just discussing this subject with a friend that this could be the single best sealing method in the winter. I appreciate you guys putting in all of this information. We are working on wad style needles and will seal them with prop. in a couple of days. I would like, for once, to not have blushing. I did read about the jars and the drops of acetone in the jars etc. I am happy to hear they only need to be in jar for a couple minutes if at all in low humidity. Thanks guys

Let us know how that new one works out. Pretty expensive?

Use thin coat etex with acid free brush or 1" sponge brush. Hang tail down. Flip few times in first hour. No problems. Want thicker, can do same thing 24 hours later. I am assuming the guys using spinners are putting etex on very thick. If thin, just hang and flip.

Another general thing about topcoating with etex. I just mix mine with a craft stick (popsicle stick) Never had an issue there. Dont whip it as mentioned. Take a plate and cover that plate with aluminum foil. Poor the etex out on to the foil. This will greatly reduce bubbles AND greatly extends the working time easily 33% or so. Heat is spread out along the foil, so the curing is slower. I have done a dozen or so two ounce size lures with one batch of etex. Prior to that, I was getting about 8 lure max before the stuff was longer workable.

This headache has a very simple solution. Gently exhale (breath/blow) on the lure where the bubbles are. I use a 6", or so, piece straw and gently blow through it. The carbon dioxide from your breath is what gets rid of the bubbles. They go away almost instantly. Regarding the torch, its the carbon dioxide from the torch that gets rids of the bubbles, as well, not the flame/heat itself.

I saw two there for 80$ did you get the pancake or the other one?

uh oh funny thing you mentioned that, I had actually known about that and forgot lol - I found my link to the TU part of his website and it works out to the same price which is cool of him. Thanks for heads up, I totally forgot about that TU price break

Ok. I am sold on the Bloxygen and I just ordered a can. Today I ordered a Pint of the clear lure coat. I bought it from the other place though for $31.00 shipped, POR-15 Pelucid. I am pretty sure DNLC is something like $60.00 for a pint shipped? Welp, hope its the same thing lol looks like it. So, now that I have a sample of DN, and a pint on the way, its time to get serious Tonight, I am going to take 4 baits and topcoat (DN Sample, clear) them using a brush and see how it turns out. Will be doing two coats as everything I am seeing and reading suggests this should be done.

Spray bottle as in not an airbrush? Just a common squirty squirt bottle??

I am sitting here with a sample of S-81 clear and I am afraid to even open it. lol

Funny when people mention making money. You would make more money working at Burger King for your time invested.

Oh sorry didnt see you were in Europe.

Can buy it at least at AC moores and michaels craft stores and does come in gallons. My ac moore down the street always stocks the gallon size.