Lili Man

Snax, Are you referring to the edges of the segments? Like the BBZ Shad and True Tungsten lures. Back part of 1st section points towards tail, and front part of next points towards the head, and so on through the rest of sections?

It is written as a statement.... Sorry for the confusion. It is a theory that I am working on, and you are correct Vodkaman, I did not consider the ballast material as hardware. But it will indeed need to me weighted. Had my first prototype functioning and swimming well today. It is a 7" top water bait. But after testing the strength of material connecting the body joints, it was strong enough to hold 50 Lbs. in the lateral directions , but as soon as torqued in a twisting manner it did not hold up. So back to the drawing board. Although the bait will only have to handle the initial bit, it needs to hold up, since I am targeting large saltwater baits.

Thought I would poss this question for all to ponder! "What would you say if a jointed bait was made with no hardware?" Meaning that the bait had no line tie, no hook hangers or joint hardware. Think it can be done?

Dan, I am getting ready to cast my first lure. I used oomoo 25 for the mold and will be using feather lite for casting. What temp do you think is best for pouring the molds. And do you have any other recommendations before I use the feather lite?

Mark, You account for 3 to 4 grams for epoxy? Is that dipped once or multiple layers of epoxy? NM***** I just need to read!!!

Well like Vodkaman said, it probably has a lot to do with the shape of your bait. If the bait is flat on it's sides then it is getting lost in the vortex, or better yet not creating a vortex to move the other parts.. If you can add some girth to the bait it my work better. The gap or space between the baits parts need to be smaller for slower action retrieve. Try and get away from the eye screws if you can. Hinge or eye screw and pin if possible. Lets see the bait!