Frank
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Everything posted by Frank
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You could get a screw type lid from the hardware store and then mix with drill acachment and transfer with another plastic cup left inside the bucket of plastic. You could take it out but then you have to put it somewhere. I keep mine in a second container along with the drill attachment.
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You would think so but the plastic looses a lot of heat when thin and it could not bond just because of the lack of heat.
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CFM is how fast it will get to a desired Hg but all of them will get to there max Hg in time. Not sure what they mean either. As for any other theory's try and fix the ones you can control and go from there.
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It will grow and bubbles will rise to the tp and pop. then it will relax and go back down. The examples of chambers do come with a gauge and after the first time you will know at what amount of vacuum it will do its thing. You will have much better looking baits after that. As for how much you put in is going to be decided by the sizes of the mold you make.
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Thanks for that. Need some and shipping is cheap for me from them.
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I buy it by the five gallon bucket. Do you know how much five pounds will be volume wise. Cause my bucket and contents does not weigh that much.
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This one would be worth trying too. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F231611404572
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Preheating will expand the bubbles earlier but won’t remove them from the surface. Makes it longer to demold with the same result. Removing the air in the mold first is the answer. The vacumn and chamber seems expensive but when you have one it is priceless.
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It won’t change the color as long as you don’t over heat it. With small batches it is really easy to over heat. As for bubbles in the tail it could be a few things. One is plastic cooling to fast in a cold mold. Another is to low a temp for the plastic. To hot a plastic could do this too but it usually means small bubbles. Try keeping the plastic about 310-320 deg. Then shoot till you feel it stop and give the injector a good last push to get out the last bit of air in the tails.
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Ok I get it I get it you want to make two sides at a time then mix and match them. Getting a good bond is the only challenge doing it that way.
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so you want to glue them together after you cut? Not really understanding what you are wanting to do.
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One thing you did not say is what do you call next step? What kind of numbers do you need ? There is nothing like seeing what you can really do if you just think on it. I know me and Dave do some pretty high numbers with what some might call lower level products. And remember there is no magic machine that wil produce high number without some one being there to baby sit the machine and have knowledge to fix the little things that can go wrong once in awhile.
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Wondering if you actually use these types of thing or just read about it. I use a lot of micro balloons and never have to add anything to my plastic. I don’t use salt much but if you try and copy something then by all means add a bunch of stuff together and make it work. Been noticing lately you have been speaking for what you call most of us and we but anyone reading this anglinarcher does not speak or represent ME in any way.
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Is it really necessary to add stabilizer to new plastic? All plastic has it in it but it will burn off after awhile.
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Hey thanks for the plug cause that’s my video I did years ago. Glad to see it is helping others out still. So if you still have questions they will be answered quickly.
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Trash the laminate plate and go back to the two color injector. With the right two color injector it will give you the results you expect. Keep the temps around 300-310 deg and shoot with steady pressure but at the end give it a good push and hold pressure. This should fill out the tails in both colors. The tails are to thin to shoot with a plate and get good consistent results.
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I could help but the design now gives you a nice round head. Enlarging it will make it more of a blunt nose. Plastic temp has more to do with it than anything else lower temp and hold pressure for a thirty count, demold as soon as you can cool in water bath. This technique works on many larger baits.
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Spikeit has one that is extra hard (40d) that works well, to hard for most of what I do but it is the hardest one I have used without bench mixing one. Might give it a try.
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With that mold the gate will freeze so no need to extend the Sprue. It is a big chunk of Plastic and requires different techniques. That Sprue is long enough if the temp are low when shooting.
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I have a bunch of those molds and as said before demold early and set in water. Hold it by the tail so the soft plastic will flow to the head and drop head first. Also keep your temps as low as possible like 300 hold pressure for about 30 seconds. This way marks for me but some still get dents once in awhile. Make sure your water tub or bucket does not get to crowded as they will cool bent sometimes.
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You will find the pins are priceless. It is miserable to eject the unused plastic back and have them both pop off. So have a couple of spoons ready to fish them out.
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Yes I have used it and it never bleed for me but I don’t heat or reheat above 330. Use the laser too with no problem but do the same never above 330. If you think it will look like the colorant it won’t but still looks good.
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Lurecraft has some. It’s kinda holigrafic looking in a way.
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It is a BTS mold. Basstackle use to have it.
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If you have a Twinjector no need to pulse just have one color hotter than the other. The difference in viscosity will do the work for you.
