Frank

You have to remember not all skill levels are the same. That being said not all mold maker have the skill to make a mold like that. If this was easy to do there would be many more doing it. As of now there are a lot of guys trying it and most have found out that it's not so easy. So venting a mold right is great but having a good looking bait is much more desirable. On that bait I have more than 100 cavitys of many sizes and it is a plastic flow thing that is happening. If you use a plastic that is thicker when at temp it will do that. Using one that flows better gives better results. Finding the one that works the best is up to the user. The ribs are real thin and everyone has a vent. Like I said before that color is a pain and want to do that even with easy molds. Most of us here know that not all molds shoot the same and need some figuring out to get good results.

The longer you fuss with trying to burp your injector the larger the plug will be. Just suck it up and shoot. That air will be at the top and not bother you at all. On the bubbles I have noticed that colors with white in them do that worse. I have much better luck when I make that color with hot pink and white pearl. White pigment is a ground up rock and does not flow well. The only reason I can think of.

I am not saying it will plug up at all. But the quality of the laminate baits will suffer when half melted plastic get in the Twinjector and put in the mold. When the pot are full there is heat up to the middle of the Twinjector and it will work fine but when there is a quart the heat is so low that it is hard to keep it from getting clumps that don't have time to melt. On the next cycle they get sucked up and out in the baits. Some may not care if it does that but I do. With the heater it keep the Twinjector hot all the way to the top all the time.

Needing a rack just to hold up the injectors is one thing but be warned the Twinjector will cool off enough to get a skin on the outside. When that skin falls off you will get clumps of half heated plastic that might migrate to the other color and cause some mix in the colors. Doing swim baits will be a disaster when the top color gets into the bottom. This does not happen much with full Prestos pot but when they get low there is a serious loss of heat. With a heated rack it keeps heat up on the Twinjectors and also cleans and melts the plastic on the outside of the unit. I used the first one made and it was my conclusion to heat it. Still have the same one since. Modified it a bit but the same one.

I know there is but unless you want to buy a train load these ones will sell to a small guy. Some won't sell less than a drum which give the repackagers a chance. The point here was that they were both the same product but one was so much better than the other. It's all in what you read I guess.

Yes I know. To bad cause it has been a staple for me for a long time. But I was telling you to check it out for technique more than products. You need to get a system that works for you and go with it. Every way has its good and bads so just need to find something that works. Nothing beets hard work.

Both of those plastics are calhouns. They don't make it they repackage it. The company's that make it are Spikeit, Mf, Lurecraft, chemionics, Polysol and calhouns.

Look at some of my videos on you tube. Franksrooty2. Gives some ideas on how many I use. Also have one on the Jacobs single color machine. Just, because it is a machine does not mean it will replace old fashion hard work. I can turn out a lot of baits with two presto pots a Twinjector and enough molds so you are never waiting for molds to cool. At times I even use a fan to cool the molds a bit, because after repeated use they get real hot and need some cooling. Number of baits you produce is dependent on how much wasted time you are waiting for things to cool.

Yes it does. Smell is more of a personal thing. I don't think it smells bad at all. But that me others might have a different take on this. You could use the clear vpi but as said before it smells real bad and not good for you.

Get the PVC eyes from Spikeit and the glue. Put a dot of glue and stick on the eyes. Done.

Brass shim stock will work with standard pins. Just cut a piece into a strip put it in the hole and tap the pin in. Over time they will loosen but just put another piece in and go again. This way the two pieces will fit easily back together. Buy some pins and I could send you some of the brass. Pm me your address.

Are you sure it was set to F and not C? Makes a big difference.

He said they can use fed ex freight so my quote will be close to yours, I am in California too. A little less that 200.

That's the problem I had with the Mf plastic. As it sets in the bag oils come out and makes straight cuts in the bags. Laminate bags will work with the Mf but since I have used Spikeit plastic and can use bags like the ones I mentioned earlier in the post. I know when I talked to Bruce over at Spikeit he told me what the bag had to be made of and those fit.

I don't mind showing how to do it because it is just hard work to do it for as long as i do. Master never just have a system that works.

No never top off molds,if I have to top off molds it's because the plastic temp is to hot so I lower the temp. If that still happens I have a new mold made with a longer Sprue. Sprue cups are for holding the injector plugs. If I am using the Twinjector it holds the blending block stuff too. Sound like a long process but in ten minutes you are shooting and making baits.

I don't think moderators make policy's they are using the ones that have been in place for as long as I have been here. The policy posted earlier was pretty easy to understand don't you think? Presented in a different manner to me would look much more like a tutorial but we have a place for those too and if you don't think the gallery is used much go to the tutorials section and see. As for the rules it says it will be removed without notice but it was not and all here can read and make there own judgment. This soft baits forum gets a lot of traffic and has for a long time. Some have helped out a little and some have helped out a lot but most just move on. Pictures go in the gallery tutorials go the the tutorial section is that not easy?

I think the process is called extruding, which is not injecting by far. Thus the reason for new machines and processes. It has been made by one of our suppliers but not for the home use as of yet. Totally different stuff.

Very strong is an understatement. On the chart if you are using the 108 a little white pearl will help it get more opaque. That combination has a tendency to look like rainbow sherbert ice cream. How much colorant are you using?

Never even look at it just put it in and start. One of my microwaves must have some type of over heating sensor because after 3 quarts I need to add at least 30 seconds to the total. Or it just gets to the gel state. Here is my process(I use injectasol which is pourasol that is not vacumned) Mix 5 gallon bucket with paint mixer on a drill Transfer it to the vacumn container a quart at a time Start vacumn with a gallon of raw plastic When it gets to 29.4hg it will grow and the bubbles will burst Scoop out a quart into a 4 cup Pyrex Set it in the microwave and enter my time( in this case I will put it in my faster one and enter 7 min 10 seconds) Get things ready like molds and injectors Preheat my griddle Get my Sprue cups on the griddle Get the colorant measured in a medecine cup or a syringe By that time the plastic is done but to hot to inject Set it on the griddle and mix the colorant and flake Check the temp if it is 320 ish I will start shooting If it is to hot I will take it off the griddle and set it on the counter to cool a bit Check again and shoot if the temp is right In the summer my griddle is set at 350 and keeps my plastic at about 300 all the time Winter it is at 400 and it has trouble keeping it at a shootable temp(need to put it back into the microwave for a reheat) This way I never reheat the big Pyrex (unless it is winter) just reheat the sprues and add them back in. The plastic does get a skin on the top but I take that off and reheat it with the sprues Reheating sprues can be tricky as the time will vary because it is already hot. Just heat slow and check often.

I have two one is 7min10 seconds the other is 8 minutes. That is for a quart.

How would you learn from a post like that? It has no info on how to do it but does have the color names. Someone please tell me!

Someone explain to me how this helps anyone with a decision on weather to use glass beads or salt if there baits when is no comparison photo(like Dave says). Or for that matter a recipe on how to achieve that look. And why would you not want to post it in an area that is designed for that type of post. You say no one ever goes there and looks at anything so you force me to look at if. If I wanted to see it I would go there. There is ways of monitoring a forum but we don't have one that stops someone to post a comment on a thread that is old. We have all seen that over and over again. As for asking the same question again and again post away, the only stupid question is the one you never ask. If you think it is to repetitive then don't answer. If you think you have to answer every question then don't complain about it being the same one.

Well why not just put it in the molds and save a step. Flaming after will work but will take off some of the detail as well. Be carefull heating with a pot and hot plate can be tricky as the hot plate spikes heat real bad so when you get close to temp be carefull. What do you have to take the temp of your plastic?

I use it a lot, it does not need to get to 350. I get mine to about 335 at the most and have good luck shooting at about 310ish. Try and not stir it to much as if you hit it when it gels you will introduce bubbles. I mainly use quart batches and heat it all at once. I won't give you a time cause all microwaves are different. When I take it out it is about 335. When you first use it make sure and mix all the settlement on the bottom. It may not be much but it all needs to be mixed in. Try and stir it not shake it. Being new you will need to be carefull at first heating and when you get more use to it you will get it. Not many things you get will have instructions and this forum will be priceless when you need to know something.