Frank

Well answering a question with a photo is a good way to get your point across, starting a post with a photo just to show what you did with something belongs in the gallery. If you think a photo showing a baits color without a how I did it and a formula is an answer to the all important question of salt or media and colors then why not post in the gallery and let someone ask the question there. You say no one goes there well start a new trend and make it your own place of sort. There are a lot of people here that made this place a place for questions to be answered and if it takes a picture to get your point across then so be it. Some want to compare this site with others but this site in my opinion has been around pretty long with out a rule change so why change now? You want a site full of anything someone wants to post then start your own and see how it goes. This way has worked out good for years like this and I don't want it to stray into that kinda forum. I too have helped out a lot of people here but don't want to see, look what I did stuff. Maybe just me but thats my opinion. Call me a hall monitor,photo police or what ever.

Give Chad walden a call or email and he will set you up.cwalden@polysolpolymer.com or 844-765-9765. Pretty impressive stuff, not sure I would call it the clearest but at the top for sure. Goes through a different type of gel stage. I can't figure out why it takes longer to heat up as others. It ends up with a bit of an oily feel but was assured it won't get worse in a bag. Hard to change when customers are use to spike it's for so long. Pricing is about the same for a drum. Just noticed he is in your state too!

You got it! With the ball in your court it is way easier to get what you want and be able to solve any problem you may encounter along the way. I don't see it as being trouble, it's a system that works every time for anyone who wants to try it and stick to it. Basically it is what most of them do at the factory/manufacturers to get bubble free plastic.

No you don't have to deal with it ever if you know how to get rid of them. It has been said many times on here how to get rid of the bubbles 100%. I will tell you how. If you buy spike it injectasol you will need to vacumn it to get bubble free plastic. If you buy the pourasol it has been vacumned but you still need to mix it so you might get air back in it, not as bad but still some. To vacumn it you will need a pump that will draw a vacumn down to 29.4hg or lower(not many will go much lower). There are plenty kits available on eBay or go to best value vacs. Get a chamber that is at least three time bigger than the amount you want to vacumn as it will grow till the bubbles pop and reseed back to normal state. If you think you are spending more money to get bubble free plastic then think about this, I buy a drum of plastic for around say 600 and a vacumn unit for 200 it is still 400 cheaper than one drum of plastic that does not bubble as much. In the long run you will save time and time again. There are many ways to make plastic for this industry and some cost more but does not make them better. Another thing I do is to put the plastic from the drum into five gallon pails with a screw on lid. This way you can get a full size paint mixer on a drill in and mix it in seconds. Then transfer it to the vacumn unit turn on and in a minute or so you will have plastic that is bubble free 100%. The plastic left in the container can be mixed with the same drill as the pail so when you need to do more just mix the container and then the pail and do it again.

If you look at clear bags try the crystal clear bags. Now read the description real well some say pre opened. Those are a real time saver for packaging. They are not laminated but never had a problem with them. Pretty inexpensive too.

what problem did you have?

You can buy sheets from spike it. Cut them how you like. If you are in the area come pick up some!

It goes away. Way more concentrated just after pouring. Or maybe I got use to it.

Some are posted in the how to section of TU. Go to forums section.

If you watch some of my older ones you might see a thick wire going from handle to handle. Down the middle to keep them from spinning while stirring. Been doing it this way so long I don't think about all the little things I do anymore.

Hang the handle on the outside near the handles. Do it all the time for runs as small as two two cup pyrex's.

Because people will pay for it. That's the bottom line.

I painted baits with Ken some years at a show with spike it. Back when spike its water based paint was being released. He does use the vpi paint from spike it and I am sure it is plastisol. Beck then I even mentioned to the owner of spike it that I though his product were made from another product, he laughed and said Ken was a long time customer. I would start with spike it and go from there. Plus they have five firmness's available but I would lean towards medium or even medium soft for a hud. I am sure you will find a compound they make so a consistent bait will be had for years to come. Compounding your own is fine to but when you start keeping all the variables to a minimum will help with getting what you want.

I have been using a high sided griddle for years now and even if some say it's not advised it works. Two statements said would lead me to believe it was one or two things that could have happened. One is don't put it directly on a hot plate, the temp on those things jump around way to much. Temps will fluxuate from way to low to way to high but the average may be the low setting. The other is because it is new it may have a defect. Most of the ones you see here were new or near new and broke(exploded if you like drama). I did find some of the borosilicate ones and they seem to work fine but then my others have never broke after 7 years of use. The new ones I have found were thicker just like the Pyrex cups most use. Try a high sided griddle or pan and you will see a difference and if it does break it will be in the pan and not the carpet. On a side note i have had the new ones for awhile now and the only difference I see in them is they don't clean out as easy as the Pyrex.

After reading this I went out and checked the pint of flor orange I have and it to is settled on the bottom. Mixing it is not so easy with such a small opening. If it were me I would cut it open and put I a container with a bigger opening as mentioned before. Other brands don't settle that much but all the flor colors do. Beware of the thick one too they are hard to mix just because they are thick.

Not sure if comparing repackagers with company's that actually make there products is fair. But the guys from MF have been around for a long time and have made there product for a long time. Was the reason you wanted to return the product because it was bad or just you had to mix it? You must have had some experience with there colorant before and should have known it does settle a bit. The flouresents are to worst and need to be mixed every time you use it. I use one of there colors that's settles just put a few wing nuts in the bottle and shack it till they are free. Just the nature of the product. I am thinking if they did not want to take it back it was because it was not defective.

Well then does your purple bleed? I think that was the question.

What size bags are you using? Have you ever thought of a topper type label? Then as suggested put a separate sticker for product info.

Here's one http://www.btsmolds.com/swim-bait/648-swim-bait and another http://www.btsmolds.com/jerkbaits/4-jointed-swim-jerk I know there are more just can't find them.

Where you not the one doing the shunning? I am sure Bob remembers but so do I.

But what was the temp?

You raise a good question about begin to hot. Do you know what your temp is? If you do then you will know it's to hot. If not you need to get something to get a temperature. This will make it a lot easier down the line. Shooting with salt is a lot different than straight plastic.

Bobtackleshack. Only has one size but it close to that look.

You can never go wrong with a 6 oz injector. Give you enough to do several molds if you choose.

That is fine if you prefer one without a pin but if the pins slowing you down then don't lock it. They sell extra tips for other brands too. Here is a question for you have you ever had the tip come off while you move from one mold to another? Without a locking tip it could come off at that time and make a real mess. There was a video on you tube that shows that happening. They laughed about it but it was real dangerous.