Frank

Yes it would. It will change the color with the level of grind the salt is too. But it will milk or cloud the color

To get that color you will Need a copper pearl. And add it to Spikeit root beer.

Basstackle has a few sizes available also, more of the traditional ones.

You can buy the solvent based one from them but the only airplane safe container they have is a quart. That a lot of paint. Call Bruce and he can tell you about it. I know they don't really want resellers of there products anymore.

I would look like that the day after but I am afraid there no way to stop it.

That's the reason most of us are here. Anyone can make cheap worms but they never make them in colors that we want.

You use it the same way but dyes will bleed if next to a lighter color. Using dyes wisely can make a good color great. All the ones I have are really transparent and really look great with a little high lite powder.

BTS molds has a few.

Spike it has the best value and sizes available. They are pretty strong and mix well when you shake to use. All of there's can be mixed in hot or cold plastic which is pretty handy when you are new. Also if you need a color they probably have it or can make it for you as they supply some bigger company's. Some are so thick they can't be shaken well. Also keep in mind some of the color are thinner and require more drops to get what you want. So no real value there.

These ones from Amazon. Arcuisine Borosilicate Glass Measuring Cup / 1 Liters / 33.8 Ounces20 for four cup ones. Real nice spout. Seems longer and finer.

I only find humor in the drama. I too have had one break but it was a crack sound followed by plastic flowing on my griddle. It's one thing to let people know what can happen and beware and another to TELL people it will with words that at least to me are drama filled. I have broken more of the beakers than the Pyrex. I did get my new cups yesterday, I feel so much safer now, Not the beakers but cups that look like the Pyrex made the old way. They have a much better spout and don't dribble like a Pyrex.

This is what I was thinking about it being new. You don't have to give it a reason to break they just do. One of the four cups I dropped has a big chip missing off the top rim and it still has not broken(exploded if you like more drama). My new old style ones are going to be here today so I will be safe from the big bad cups that explode like a hand grenadeand sound like a 12 guage going off. Actually glad one of the 12 guage ones have not gone off at my house my city has a devise that tracks gun shots and I would be having to explain it was my Pyrex cup that made the sound. Hope the cops fish!

Ok I will try and not cross examine you, I feel bad cause you lost a good pair of pants. But for every negative you must search for a posative here is mine http://www.anchorhocking.com/Bakeware_Facts.html# Everyone always call it Pyrex but of 12 I use all the time 11 are anchor brand. I did find some cups made the old way on Amazon and did purchase 4 of the four cup ones, not a bad price 19.99 each delivered in one day. They look a lot thicker than the ones posted earlier by far but I will see when they get here tomorrow.

Did you get hurt? You keep saying grenade but you are still here and I am really convinced if you got hurt you would have said so by now. The lab cups break too but I admit it was my fault and believe it is from being thin. I have found thicker ones but not in the sizes I want.

I was thinking the same thing but in another way. I have had one break way back when I first started, that being said it was new or almost new when it happened. And never happened again after years of use. I don't just have one I have four of each size,four cups, two cups and one cup. I was thinking was it a flaw from manufacturing? My cups are more than 6 years old now and I have dropped them and had them fall off my work bench and still have not broken. Chipped a four cup years ago but still nothing. I have some of the beakers I use for dipping but I have dropped those and broken more than I care to say. The handled lab cups look good but I still have had no problem with just standard Pyrex. When mine broke it was more of a cracking sound and then just a lump of hot plastic in my griddle. Wondering if anyone who had one break could remember if it was a new one?

Bob did not start the post so his comments are welcome and always have been. He not posting a thread selling his products and showing what he has done. Funny how some can take things way out of context. We have forums for all types of posts and if used right everyone benefits. Over many years many of us on this forum have contributed great knowledge to anyone who asks. And many of us have seen some that don't, they complain and go away.

Get the locking tip and if you don't want to use it don't. I had the original twinjector without the locking tips and it was my idea to use it. When I tried to get the rest of the plastic out of the twinjector both tips went into the cups. I machined out the first ones and sent Basstackle a picture. Even he saw the advantage of it and incorporated it on all of his injectors. By the way the price for the injector did not go up but the labor to make one did. So it was not a cost thing. Basstckles injectors are like tanks and will take a beating and still work for years. If a locking tip is some kinda marketing thing then why does most everyone have them? It's just safer that's why. Look on you tube and you will see some videos of guys loosing the tips in hot plastic and laugh but something as simple as a pin can stop that from happening. So if you don't like the pins blame me cause I started it years ago. As for a safety belt for my Pyrex I do it's a high sided griddle so if I spill it stays inside.

My money would be on the molds cause the cost of some swimbaits that size could be expensive. With the mold you could pour as many as you want then sell it.

5/8" is pretty much standard. Taper or depth is up to you.

If anyone thinks they are feeding Bob then you will be disappointed to know you probably are not. He was one of the first guys that made large molds for bigger company's. Other than Zorn. I know he is and has a very large on going relationship and awhile back they wanted him to work for them exclusively. If that is now the case then we all lost.

Some of the older ones you could hand pour but most nowadays need to be injected. If you can hand pour it will say that in the description when you buy.

Dinp can be replaced with many other products. And yes some can be costly. So if you found what type of products they were using you could make your own colorant. If you want to be green all the way that is. Your color palate would be limited. The company's that claim that are way bigger than the fishing industry (we are a speck on the wall for them) so if it were not true some big big lawyer would have already gotten them.

Ok I will p95 is good for PVC (oil based vapors) as long as it is worm right. 95 means 95 percent will not get through. There are some masks with two rubber type straps and if you use this type you must use both straps and be clean shaven for it to work. If all this is not done, well why use one at all. Same with the silicone masks with changeable cartridges. Clean shaven and both straps on right. P100 filters will filter 99.7 percent and I believe the only difference is they add a hepa filter to it. If you see n95 or n100 they are not rated for oil vapors and should not be worn. There are some full face masks with air supplied, these are way more comfortable to wear for long periods of time as they feed you fresh usually cool air to breathe. But open your wallet wide cause these are costly. The only guys I work with that use the organic vapor filters is automotive painters as the deal with solvents that need to be filtered out. And those have a shelf life usually 40 hours of use. Put them away in a sealed container if not in use.

That was the discussion I had with Jeff at Mf but unless you can see how much air is released from the plastic I use I am not sure anyone could understand it. The plastic grows at least twice it volume till the surface tension is broken and it falls. I do this all the time and never have I had moisture build up or collect anywhere. Anyone who has a chamber like mine could tell you the same thing. What I don't get is the guys getting moisture in the bags. Can't see how it gets in there. On the moisture bubble releasing, you could not tell if you have bubbles at 212 because it is still like milk then and you can't see it. I have never tried the shaking thing but I guess it could happen very easy. But I have always stirred mine just to make sure there is no settling on the bottom. If you want to test if yours settles take something and scrape the bottom of you jug and see if anything is on the bottom. All that I have used will have some sorta settling. Just make sure it mixed in every time you use it.

Check out Basstackle they have a lot of them over 6". You will have to look for them as they have a lot of swim baits, like 9 pages. I have most of them if you want a sample pm me your address and I will help you out.