Frank

Ok I have done that before. You will need a small egg mold and a large one. Shoot the small one with the eye color, pull apart and insert in the larger one. Works ok if you shoot real slow. If you shoot fast they will move and bunch up at the end. Not sure if Basstackle has them on ther site but he has one that is .125 diameter. That is the small one.

I would say yes to that for sure. Never hurts to make sure. For my presto pots I use a digital temp gauge near the injector nozzle.

I have had those type of venting problems before. What I did was add vents but with a utility knife. Just cut lines where you want vents. Try one side first and shoot. If it does not work then try the other side. This will make a vent but won't leave any tag that you could see. Plus when you resell it it won't look as bad as a file mark.

I definitely agree with the statement[ you may need to adjust]. When you see a color wrapping around another it is to hot. Just cool it down maybe five degrees and shoot again. Controlling temp is defiantly a challenge but each person has a different way and no mater what number you shoot you will learn to tell when one is cooloer than the other or viscosity is different. I guess I just shoot it so much it is easy for me to see what is going on.

I am sure that there's an educated reason for this but the simple answer for me is that the dark colors to hot. Lower the temp of that one color and shoot again. Keep it simple and it will all make sence. To lower the temp of the hot one quick I will put a little raw plastic in. This lowers the temp fast and keeps you going. When you see a color that wraps aorund like that this is usually the fast fix.

Here it is hope this will help out. still new to me too.

There are only two that I know of and both are available from spike it. One is water based and is easy on your lungs. That one needs to be top coated with solvent based clear or dipped in hot plastic to seal your results. The other one is solvent based and works just as well but the smell is horrible. It does not need to be top coated but good ventilation is a must. Those are pretty much your options for soft plastic. They have a good variety of colors and remember if you want you can mix powder colorant in there clears and make many more.

Yes I have to agree the statement about the molds, sometimes they are to big. I know of two company's that will make them smaller but most others just do what they do. One good example is the four cavity 702 craw mold. It has much more sprue than a two cavity. That's the reason I sold mine and bought the two cavity ones. You guys think you can't make money cause you don't want to change anything. Buying a machine does not do it but just plane hard work will. Like Dave says keep thinking like that!! I say that but have to turn a lot of people down because I am just to busy so there is room for many many more guys that want to WORK for it and not sit back and say there's no way. I have a bunch of spruces too but mostly throw them away. My customers pay for them anyways so it is not a big deal to me.

Try spike its root beer. It's more like the drink color but using drops you will get real close the that picture. I use 20ccs to 32 ounces. That is like the drink.

Well for the guys that say it's no accurate and only a digital temp gauge is ,I guess it's not common sence. Both are a good way to take the temp of the plastic. Keeping plastic at that temp for any length of time will make it turn yellow much faster. Shooting at 310 will set faster and keep the molds from over heating so fast. If I shoot some of my swim bait molds at that temp the plastic sprays out the gate and makes a mess out of the two colors. How do you get the temp of your plastic? I have a probe in both mine at all times when I shoot a lot. Which I do quite often.

I have never heard of this could you maybe start a new post and post up a picture? Don't want to dilute this one. I shoot a lot of baits through the twinjector and the seam or line between colors is a little mixed so I know there is no chance of what you are talking about.

This is through a twinjector both colors at the same time.

I will get something together soon. Been real busy lately.

Yes the temps must be within 10deg or less but if they are like 350&340 they will mix just like the photo. In this case the blending block has nothing to do with it as you can see he has both colors in the baits. Look at a mold real good and at the gate where the plastic enters it is like a nozzle. So when it is to thin it sprays in the cavity instead of flowing. Lower temp thicker plastic will flow thinner hotter plastic sprays/mixes at the gate. Look at most of the baits and you will see where the white crossed over just after the gate. Much less noticeable on colors that are transparent.

Explain the reason for the burping. The way I think is that the air is at the top so if you don't use all of it then you won't get air. And most of us know you can't use all the plastic in an injector cause near the end it's just not good. Now if you suck up plastic so fast you get air in it why not slow down? Turning an injector upside down and pushing the air out looks like an accident waiting to happen. Not to mention all that time the plastic is cooling.

Finally someone who understands you have to be stirring the plastic to take the temp with an ir temp gun. Even a digital candy thermometer need some stirring to be right. I have both and they are pretty much the same when all things are equal. Heat up plastic long Enough and you will find that temps in plastic vary so much it is unreal at times. some times I want the temp so low I have to break though a skin of cooled plastic to suck up the colors. But this gives me the most definite line in a laminate. When I reheat the colors mix a bit.

Looking at the pictures both temps are to hot. If you want to shoot white as a belly both temps should be around 310 or lower. This way it won't have time to mix. Smooth steady pressure will get you what you are looking for. The thicker the plastic is the better the laminate will be.

Basstakles HD one is a scanned 3D image of one. File were edited a bit to keep the run times down.

I had better results from there laser blue. Has more of a holigraphic look

I work with the stuff everyday and really think over thinking it is much of the mystery. Mixing it has a lot to do with the temperature. That said do you have a liquid or a paste? If it is truly a filler then the paste is used to make sure it is mixed well. The paste contains a colorant. Being exact might get you in trouble if it is to hot. Let's say if the temp is around 90 deg and you mix it as stated, it will cure fast and create bubbles. If it is a liquid then ten drops to an ounce by volume will be a middle ground to start. Reading this post gets me thinking that you are trying to,join two products the are very pour out. Good luck getting a good surface. The bonds you are using is much more porous than you think so beware. I mix mine on a board with a putty knife and my method is put some in the middle and with the paste start from the center of the amount needed and put a bead from the center to the edge. That is real close to what they want but not if it is hot. Then it's more like half that amount.

Pm me your address and I will send some out. Really good bait you will be pleased.

Nothing sticks to silicone but silicone itself.

You are having more of a problem with it because it is the hard formula. Softer formulas take heat much better. I have one customer that I use hard for and it is real tricky to keep,it clear or white. From beginning to end the color changes a bit but not to much. For me the key is to keep,it hot and not reheat it. I know the microwave is easy but a presto pot with the temperature set low enough to shoot but not hot enough to yellow will work for awhile and by that I mean about an hour or so. With the Spikeit injectasol hard formula I heat in the microwave and transfer it to the presto pot. Now on the presto pot I turn it on without any thing in it so it will get up to temp and stabilize at the right temp. This keep it from pumping a lot of heat in your plastic at first and then stabilizing. If your injector is not heated then you will have to reheat the plugs after each shot. Keep the heat short and stir it well till you get to know how much time it takes to get it back up to temp. You never mentioned how you know what temp you plastic is? I use a infrared temp gauge and if you use of of those make sure and stir it while you take the temp this way it will be accurate as possible. One note on the injectasol plastic I do put it in a vacumn chamber before I heat and it always come out bubble free.

Yes a lot of the formulas reference LC colors but they to have changed over the years. I can't give you a real accurate time line of when it happened but it has. As for colors they are different from place to place. Each eye has a different idea of what a color should be. That's why you make your own baits so you have control of what you want.

Basstackle has a three inch one. Look under creature baits.