Frank

I did not think you were actually using ice. That may work for a bait with large appendages but if you have a mold with thin ones they will be hard to fill. Your best bet is to keep them at a warm working temp. Setting them in front of a fan will keep them from over heating. Clamping them with other molds not being used will work to but when they get hot it will still take awhile to cool down. As for putting your Pyrex cups on a griddle, I have been doing that for awhile. Does not work unless you stir it once in awhile to keep the skin off the top. My main cups I never reheat just remelt the sprues and add them back in the main cups. Give the ones on the griddle a little temp boost. I use a high sided one in case of a spill and it won't get knocked off. I have a bunch of videos on you tube showing how I do it. Look me up and watch a few. My channel is Franksrooty2 , a couple of them are in the tutorials section on this site too.

Here is an idea. Everybody order a different mold, then when he makes them he can take pictures of them and post them. Sounds easy right. He has a lot of molds and it takes time. I asked him about the 702 mold too, he said the price was lower to get sales going. Starting over is never fun.

Just got some info from Spikeit they can ship the solvent paint over seas but you need to buy at least a quart. This is the smallest container that has been pressure tested and approved for shipment in the air. Now shipping will be up there but there haz mat fees is for a shipment and not a package. So you can get the solvent stuffs in Europe but needs to be larger volume. Call Bruce at Spikeit and he can get you shipping quotes.

I have some small measuring spoons off of amazon. The smallest one is a drop which is two sizes smaller than a pinch. I would start with a drop and go from there. The most I use in my formulas is 1tsp to four cups. Most of the time it is half a tsp. A little goes along way.

Either way but the most common is adding it to plastic. Alumidust is sold by alimilte and say to apply to mold. Doing it that way makes a mess out of your work area, not to mention your molds are too.

The paint from mud hole is not the same. The only one that will work and does not need to be dipped is a PVC based product. Spikeit is the only one I know of that makes it for plastic baits. I know you asked for one you don't need to dip but there water based one works well but needs a top coat. They can ship that one to Europe.

If there was people from Europe would know. Seems a lot of guys there want it.

There is paint you don't have to dip or clear but it can't be shipped from the US. Very flammable stuff. You could use alumidust to paint but need a carrier to make it bond to the plastic. It is PVC based if that helps at all.

I am hearing Bob will be up and running Friday. He will be adding ten molds a day to his site till he gets it done. Site info to come.

I used to have to add flor colors before and would be a pain if I forgot. Then add it to small amount of plastic and add it in. Now I use pretty much all Spikeit colorant and add it after. Yes all of it. Now flor color do take more and by more I mean 20ccs to four cups. This gives me a brite flor color. Some take more even up to 30ccs but all of there's can be added to hot plastic. This way all my colors can be added after and I won't forget.

As for Bobs new site I am hearing next week so keep an eye out. Also at least for the Basstackle site a lot of what was removed will be replaced with his new designs. Now this will take some time so keep this in mind but rest assured it will happen in time. Really no need to be alarmed this is a good thing.

While the concept looks easy and simple in my eyes you spend more time filling two injectors and mounting them than filling both at the same time. Not to mention trying to keep equal pressure on both injectors. I put a large thumb screw on my block so with one spin it's off and a spin to go back on. It also make a great handle to move it from mold to mold. These injectors did not fill fast either due to the small hole in the nozzle.

Yes it will be not sure about the name but he will be back.

Those molds will still be offered but not on the Basstackle site. Sometimes a change is a good thing for all that are involved. They are still the same people and will continue the same service. Frank

Go right ahead I don't mind.

I have one. I should be able to help you out. Pm me.

You never said whose colors you are using. There is no green pumpkin that is the same. If you want a green pumpkin like zooms them use Spikeits 156 it is browner and more opaque. For a more opaque army type green use Spikeits mustard yellow and black to the standard type greens. Basically most all of the others out there are transparent so adding these two colors will opaque then out.

He will not be happy about you reselling either, make sure he knows that so there is not a problem later.

With those ribs I agree a 90deg will be your best bet. As for laminating a multi-cavity mold with all things being equal like temp and pressure on the injectors it will work great. I do it all the time. You see it is a hydraulic thing. As long as nothing is in the way it will just move along and not mix. Slowfish if you can round over the top of the ridges of the ribs. Plastic flows better over rounded corners than square ones. This should help a lot on trapping air.

I am here. Have been real busy lately. Have a lot of work to do and not enough time to do it in. And yes Kevin asked if he could use my video to show how to use the Twinjector. He has always gotten a lot of questions from people on how to use it so there it is. While the one in the picture looks easy to use there is a lot of human error that can be had with that.

Dyes can bleed. Pigments will not.

One four and pints will be the best bet for you. The fours will color lot of plastic. But the better deals begin at a pint. Not that the prices are high but savings are much better.

They have sizes ranging from 1oz to five gallons. They can also get you the paste which is what the big guys use. That stuff is hard to use for the small guys because it is so strong.

Look around locally, talk to Resturants and see if they will order it for you. Most get shipments daily and shipping is reasonable. If you are in a bigger town or city you could find it from the wholesale company's direct.

I am betting that the pic is injected thus the reason for the fuzz. Hand pour probably would not do that. Hand pour use to have big deep vents.