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Frank

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Everything posted by Frank

  1. So Mike you are saying that it is not different but on a pie mold the second color has to be shot up the middle while the other is shot around it. Just for comparison I am saying that baits made in a pie mold have more of a mix to the rather than what you produce. Really look at baits and you can tell who uses a pie mold and who has a zorn or a machine that uses that type of mold. It might be the user but they are not all that good at doing the laminates. Looked at that type of machine awhile ago and want to go with the big mold route soon. Frank
  2. A pie mold is just a round mold that injects from the middle. Mikes zorn machine has a larger mold and injects from a long runner. Doing two color baits is a real trick with a machine like zooms. Great read. Thanks for posting. Frank
  3. You seem to have addressed all others but still never mention an actual temp just consistency. Way more important to know where the temp is than guess. Plus the ribbon tail mold is real easy and has no real challenges to it. Fast, slow, hold pressure, stand on one foot, right hand in the air. However you inject it you will not get consistent results unless the temp is right. Mainly not to hot. Frank
  4. I am on the other side of the fence and think the plastic is to hot and a cooler plastic would cause less of the dent thing going on in the claws. Hotter plastic dents way more than cooler plastic. But do you actually know how hot the plastic is? Most new people think just heat and inject but that does not give you consistent results. I use an infrared temp gun just to give me a basic idea what my temp is. This give me an idea if I need more heat or less. That baits has a real thin claw leading to the tip and when it cools the tip dents because it has nothing to draw from. On the injector I just fill and shoot the air from the tip will be at the top and as long as you don't use all of the plastic it should not come out. But as said before try and keep the whole tip below the plastic to reduce some air being sucked up. You will get it. If you think this mold is temperamental wait till you get some others. Frank
  5. I have the Lc and the Spike it ones. Lc is browner and the Spike it one is red/orange. Spike it is way more trasnperant and looks more like root beer.
  6. If you are talking about the griddle in the back round it is just that a griddle with high sides. This keeps things warm. Thanks for the kind words. Frank
  7. Basstackle has an injection mold in that size. Tail is not like the hammer but the profile is close. http://www.basstackle.com/626_Swimbait_p/626-1-1.htm Frank
  8. I do leave it open no water get in as long as there is no other open hole in it too. Frank
  9. Maybe zoom sees a bigger check book now that doit is there. You never know. Frank
  10. It does slide off. If I redid the video I would have another one that is cool enough to slide off. I get a lot of questions about that. I bet it is more like four times the width. But when it cools it does come off. Smooth edges and slow curves are the key. Look at a hollow belly next time at your tackle shop and you will see a hole in the top of the tail. Give it a try. Frank
  11. Now that you got the two color thing down you will have to work with the colors. What I mean by that is when you have two color baits the colors look different. Like on the red and black one. The red look dark because the black is showing through the red. I have many color formulas that are designed for laminates and hold there colors well. You will have to watch to make sure colors don't bleed. Does to matter much if one colors is black but it will on lighter colors. Chartreuse is a bad one but not all will bleed. On the blending block using the whole Twinjector makes it much easier to get great results consistently. Good work. Frank
  12. They use a machine that does not give the glitter a chance to bleed. The color is not held at high temp for a long time so bleeding is not an issue. High heat is not good even for good glitter as it will break down in time too. Frank
  13. Yes the plastic will SLOWLY drop in temp. But if you are working with it then the temp will be supplemented with the sprue reheats. Yes I want to try the cast pot but in my opinion don't think it will be much of a change. You will have to stir both once in awhile and cleaning will not be easier than a Pyrex for sure. Making thing that work is great but most people won't do that. If you think about it if you have a heat source from the top that reduces heat loss from there that is something. The reason putting a lid on is so important in the initial heating. If it is not broke don't fix it does not cut it for me either as you can never stop learning. Frank
  14. I use a high sided griddle all the time and rarely reheat the Pyrex. My process is heat the Pyrex and when you have some sprues and injector plugs reheat those to supplement the heat loss from the main Pyrex. The most I use with this process is two four cup Pyrex cups. More than that I use Presto pots. Don't think there is a griddle that will heat a pot in the griddle. There is a great heat loss when you change heat from vessel to vessel. Something to think about, I use lab beakers for sprues and injector plugs and because it is flat it transfers heat much better. If the Pyrex cups were flat on the bottom the process would be much more efficient. Heat loss out the side of a Pyrex is an issue too. The more cups in the griddle the better it holds heat. For smaller batches I use a smaller high sided griddle say like a 9by9 it is enough to hold two two cup pyrex and the smaller beakers for the remelts. Or for single colors just one four cup Pyrex and a beaker for sprues. They are packed tight and heat loss is at a minimum. But no room for heating up injectors. Frank
  15. Yes the max temp is much higher on a lead pot. They are built a little differant also. Frank
  16. New pricing by two get one free, pay for the two higher priced mold and get one free. Prices are 25 to 50% off and included to your door delivery(US). Pay pal prefered and pms will be answered in the order they are recieved. Slick willies (1)4.25 30.00 each (3)5" 35.00 each (4)6.75" 38.00each Item moved to eBay. These will to after 12/26 Thanks to all that bought.
  17. Here you go Mike will this work? http://www.pouryourownworms.com/Brilliant-Powders-2oz-Jar-Brilliant-2oz.htm And the blue is here too. Frank
  18. I think you are missing a zero on the minium from johnson bags. And the 150 charge per color for the screens. Frank
  19. It is all PVC based products and LCs paint comes from Spike it. So it is all the same. Spike it used to supply a few companys with product to resell so there is some overlap in some products. Frank
  20. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/20897-dipping-swim-baits/ This videos is in the tutorial section. It is the same one. Frank
  21. I paint mine the same day and it does not come off unless you scrape it off. This stuff smells bad so use it in a well ventilated area.One of my videos shows me pouring, painting one and dipping one after another. Frank
  22. Frank

    Bobsmolds?

    I can help you out with a few if you want. Pm me if you want. Frank
  23. Just got an email. Basstackle is having a sale this weekend. Take a look and get a deal. Frank
  24. Most of the baits I have seen are just as you say dripped off the nose and cut off. It does take time and most of the baits that are dipped are more expensive. The ones I have seen anyways. Frank
  25. That is the stuff. Dries fast so get the retarder to slow down the dry time. Yes you can mix colors and also put your pearl powders in to create special colors.
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