Frank

Great Info thank you for that. Is changing the color scheme or size considered change or just shape? If the bait was worth it there might be a reason to persue it. Thanks Frank

I sent you that link because you have a better chance at getting it in a timely manner. Most of you know what I mean. Same price in both places. Frank

Or this one. http://www.lurecraft.com/catalog.cfm/molds/aluminum-molds-~-new!!!!!!/5-inch-fsz-swimbait:2836

Not sure if the filler will shrink less it is the same resin, just has a filler added. But if you do add the the filler when you add the liquid hardener it is WAY stronger than the paste that comes with the filler. So work fast and beware it will harden fast. Also when it shrinks it will lock on to the master. Frank

Thank you. I am guessing the set up you are talking about is the griddle. It is a hamilton beach high sided Griddle. On the back side I have a wire that keeps the pyrex from spinning when I stir. On the front it is just a sheet of aluminium to catch the drips. Pretty simple.

If you are new to injecting and do not have alot of molds the 3 is really easy to handle. Now it sounds like a small one but it equals a large single one. And most beginners start with a 3 or medium and go from there. The 6 can be a handfull at times but it does have its place. I still to this day use the 3 alot. My 3 is the first set ever sold and is still going just like the energizer bunny. Frank

I do it the same day. This way it sticks real good and will not come off. I put my eyes on and dip just after to get a good bond. I think the LC site said you have to clean the baits if they have been setting. This is the same stuff as Lureworks. Frank

I know you are talking about the mold makers you deal with but my point is venting is an issue that is a problem for some and not others. The mold maker I am refering to does do it for a living and has for a very long time. Out of respect for my customer and his design I will not post a pic of the many molds I am talking about but believe me they dont have vents. I know most of the molds that are pictured have a large sprue/runner but I ask if they can be reduced. I think you are talking about the distance between the sprue and the bait which in some molds can be long. I have the same mold as he does and actually the Twinjector was one I sold him, I used it and had no problem. He did change the orings and I did pm him and asked if they were bad when I sent him the unit. He said no big deal so I thought it was good. Alot of people want to say it is a product issue but I trully believe it is a learning issue. The only time I get the results he is getting is when I change the way I do things. I never use the last of the plastic in the injector, i just get as close as I can. I dont pulse the injector to preheat it. If I am doing large orders I leave the injectors in the presto pots so I have less remelts from the injector. I have marks on my injectors so I know when I am close to the end. I learn my molds and know when they are full by feel. If it is soft and springy it has an issue inside.You dont need to open them to know there is a bubble. Just what I learned from actually doing it. Frank

Yes I was thinking on the same line as Richard. If it is not researched to see if it was done before then the one defending it would be in real trouble. The A rig thing has been done for years and years so not a problem there. I looked it up and saw that it included art and sculptures. But them like I said before, a fish had the look before any art did. Another differance I see is you dont have to have a unique or new design just a picture published somewhere. Frank

Sounds like if you make a bait and call it Art you can protect it under this loop hole if you got the money. A poor mans patent? But you still have to defend it. Anyone heard of this way of protecting your design? Not sure how a fish shape from nature can be copyrighted if the fish had it first. Frank

Not real sure what a professional mold maker is. But I have some molds that dont have any venting at all and they shoot just fine. And at what point is there to much venting? Or does it really matter? The runner is way more what I have made when I ask for it to be done like that. I think it is a learning thing. I believe he went from hand pouring right into injecting multiple molds way to fast. Now he seams to be having some growing pains. Slow down and learn what will work for you. He is also worried about orders that are not there yet which adds to the frustration. Frank

I think you gave enough info. My opinion is you need to start over.Back to basics. You have probably watched my videos and to me it is that easy. All my life I have been able to make things with tools and machines. In the time I have watched others struggle with what I thought was easy. Start over One mold and one injector Heat plastic set up ONE mold Fill the injector and shoot Let kool and demold When this become second nature add another mold Shoot one while the other one is cooling You will find that once you get a system down that works for you it too will be easy You will find a comfort zone with all of your tools and you too will have baits that you are pround of. If this procedure fails buy a plane ticket to CA and I will show you how it is done. But you will have to work all day on my stuff before you go. BACK TO BASICS Frank

I have four of those molds and they do dent. The problem as I see it is the thin claw branching out to a thick end. Almost impossible to keep the thin part hot long enough to cool the end. This sounds real funny but I shoot those at around 300 to lessen this. I use the Jacobs Injection press for this with about 15lbs of pressure and hold it for about 5 sec. I totally agree with Mike on the runner thing, when I have molds made I have the runners as small as I can get. Some mold makers just dont offer an option for that, you get what you get. Frank

I would tell you that too if I did not want to have you snooping around and find my source. Search around they can be found, printed ones too. The miniums are not as high as you might think. Maybe they would even fill the bags with baits and save us all alot of work.

So are they imported bags? If they are then we can just get them direct and save more. They wiil sell anybody anything for the right price.

Which brown from LC do you have? I have Chocolate and Brown. Both of which seam pretty strong. On the black I guess they all end up black but some are stronger than others. MFs black I can get a nice smoke in small batches but not others. Some just look real green before they turn black. Frank

Understandable, most would at least give it a try. But this is a learning board and most of us thought you wanted help, thus the reason you got such responces. Frank

So what made you try this product in the first place?

While this may seem like a great idea and simple, it is not that easy. You see the bottom of the jug is not flat it has ridges that this product will not get in. This is the reason I use the welding rod it does get in those ridges and breaks up the hardener. Another reason to store it on its side. Frank

Always recieved it in the 2.5 gal containers. As for stirring the harder compounds require more stirring. I use some welding rod folded in half and tied together like a wisk. You could even put it in a drill and use it with power. I also store mine with the cap up and on the side. This helps you loosen the hardener when you mix it up. The sides are softer and bend more to loosen the settling. I like getting it like this cause they will actually put some small products in the top to help on shipping costs. Frank

If I heat it fast it does that everytime. It is worse with harder compounds. If I heat in a presto it does not do this at all. To be real honest I just deal with it, but only if I am injecting. If I am pouring baits there are ways of skimming the top to get the bubbles off. Or just let it set and peel the skin off the top. If you are injecting suck up the plastic from below the bubbles. At the same time you will realize the bubbles clinging to the injector which helps out the rest of the plastic. This plastic does not do this on reheats which sound funny but it doesnt. Clear baits are a bit of a challenge with this plastic so just heat slower. All plastic have there ways about them. Frank

I dont think the colors I have used are to strong and do no mixing before hand. But I guess I mistook what you said about the baits I thought you were talking colorant. Not the quality of your plastic. Your plastic is good stuff. At first to me it sounded like if you add more colorant it would bleed which I have had happen but only in one situation when using floatant. Frank

Sound like you are saying it is not good practice to sell something that you use less of cause you wont sell more. If that is the case I want to say Thank You to Jason at Caney Creek,Don and Bruce at Spike-it and the folks at Lure craft for giving me a product that can save me money by using less. I wish they were selling Gas like that. Frank

Are you people saying that if the color is not cut enough it will bleed. Even if it is non bleed. I am guessing that that is what is being said. I have some colors that do that so it is good to know if it is true. To me the Spike it is already twice as strong as most. Frank

To answer you question of mixing every time you might but You have to make the decision. Look at the bottom of the jug and see if there is some settling. If there is then mix it till it is gone. On the compounds of plastic the softer ones require less mixing than the harder ones. I use the injectasol but have used pourasol but saw no real differance. In my opinion the plastic is like on the softer side compared to MF. I use med hard spike it to be like regular MF. The med soft is a little harder than MF super soft. On the med hard I set the jugs on the end oposite the cap so when it settles I can hit the part that settles and break it up ti get it mixed in. It is harder to hit the bottom as it is thicker. Frank