Frank

This was a change to better accomidate the lock pin slot in the tube. They now machine out the beginning of the tube so the oring will not hang up on the slot. It also help out with the inconsistant ID of the tube. I have some of the original ones mixed with the new ones and have never had issues with either one. If you need another one for your older injector just let then know and they can make them to the old spec. The bigger one is the newer one by the way. Frank

The vacuum pump does not work like that. It achives it vacuun by the air passing by an opening. Kind of a T in the line. Pretty simple thus the reason for the low price. Frank

If you have an air compressor you can get one from harbor freight for less than 20 bucks. It is used for air conditioners in autos. It will get to 30 pounds of vacuum. Good job something to try this weekend. Frank http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html

The biggest differance is the pot. A deep fryer is thin alumiumn and the presto is more like a pan and disperses the heat much better. I tried a deep fryer and it had a hot spot on the bottom that kept burning plastic. I would think you would be better off with a large pot say 6qt and a hot plate. If you want some other ideas and are willing to build one I could let you know which parts you need if you have a store like Mcmaster carr there. Or if the shipping is less for those parts. Frank

I think if you are dipping off the top you will continue to have this issue. If it bubbles they rise to the top and if you are dipping they want to kling to what you dip. Trying to save money sometime causes new chalenges to over come. Seems to me the less you pay for plastic the more challenges there are but if you find a way to make it work great. There are some plastics that dont have this when you heat but they are not near this price range. One thing I will tell you it works GREAT in the Jacobs injection press. With the pressure and pouring from the bottom not an issue at all. I dont even wait for the bubbles to rise, I just pour it in and start shotting. Even the hard shoots great even with small apendages in the mold. As for agitating the bubbles out, I dont I just then rise. The more I mess with it, the longer it takes to rise. Frank

I have one that will heat 4 gallons but I cant get it in the microwave. It is a ritehete pot, I use it for remelts from larger runs. I have been using Spikeit for a few customers they like the feel of it. It does bubble and I have learned to just leave it and let them rise. But pouring off that top might be an issue. I inject and fill from the bottom so it is not an issue. In my opinion cooking off the bubbles make it worse, let it set a bit and they seem to gather on the sides and just pull it off and reheat the bubbles. This only happens to me on the first heating, reheats are not the same they are just fine. Every plastic has its own personality and you just have to find what works for you. The end results is great looking baits how you get there is up to you and the products you use.Frank

While I see the point here,the big boys dont always just knock something off. Once in awhile they buy the little guy out. Didnt manns just buy the arig company. Yum bought the money minnow from a small guy. I think of this site as more of a learning site than a new idea site. Posting how to's and helping others. Somethings are better kept to your self until the time is right. Even having your molds custom made is a thing that could let the cat out of the bag to early. Or having a company pour your baits just to find out they are selling then too on another site that they own. Frank

The powder ones will work. I used then for years but now we have water based ones which are not good at all for plastics. Frank

Push them one at a time. If you have a Twinjector either remove the top cross bar or loosen it alot. This will give you a swirl in the mold. Frank

One day left for there 25% off sale. A good way to support one of our sponsers here at TU. You all know the mold makers make us look real good. Frank

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-wire/=esd5w0 There are more choices where I get mine try these guys. You can get soft or spring temper. Frank

I case some of you dont know Kim is from LureCraft and is talking about there products. Frank

In my video I guess I said thinner and a guy sent me a message that he could not get it on the bait before it dried. Now I correct that statement and say retarder. Frank

Get the retarder It dries slower and gives you more time to work it. It still dries fast though. Frank

Spike it does A little cheaper too. Look under lureworks section. Frank

That color is the one in my two color ripper baits video in the how to section. The top color . Frank

I use MF watermelon brown for houdini. Use it sparingly to get the color you see. And the flake you use is very important to get the shade right too. Frank

That really sounds like it is easy to do. Here is my take on this. If you design your own swim bait then you have to market it. But if it is real good it should be patented. Otherwise it will be knocked off faster, by a bigger company with more money and lawyers. Could you afford to defend it? Not that it is not a good idea but how much time will you spend actually making baits with all the other things going on. I say make your baits in the colors your area wants. You see the big guys dont want to do smaller runs of a custom color. Ride there wave and be happy that you can make baits better than what is out there. At Icast this year I talked to a big company about making baits for them on a smaller runs so they could service areas with specific color requirements. But giving up there mold to someone out side of the company is the biggest hold up. Make your baits and have a good time, it will be alot of work but I find it relaxing in a way. Frank

Shipping will kill your profits. No problems storing MF plastic for me but go through it pretty fast at times. So was I right about the state and not the city? Frank

I am just guessing the LA is the state and not the city. If you want more profit buy the plastic in the largest quantity you can, like drums it is way cheaper that way. Do the math if you buy a drum and see the differance. Frank

He must have took it off. But he does have one, I to would still buy the injector. I have one with a bigger hole in the tip. The locking tip is always worth it.

If you but Jacobs molds you dont NEED to buy his injector, he sells an adapter that you can use other injectors. I think it is around 10 bucks. The reason I say this is that if you want to use the Twinjector the adapter is a vital part in success. That said Jacobs injector tip is the most universal design out there and will work on more molds than any other. The tapered tip make it easy to go from onr mold to another without any hang ups. Frank

Like Longhorn said I posted some videos of how I do it. It is not the only way just the way that works for me. I know you mentioned a hot plate but what I use is a griddle with high sides. I do not put the pyrex or anchor cups directly on a heat source. You can use a hot plate but do your self a favor and put a pot on first and then the cups. The griddle is set as high as it will go(400) and will keep the plastic hot for a few shots before you have to reheat. My reheats are real short times, no more than a minute but more like 30 sec. Also you will need to keep stiring as the top of the cups will cool faster than the bottom. I am sure you will love the quality of the mold you are getting and the injector is top notch. Put some pics in the gallery when you get going. As for favorite sources for supplys, I dont have a favorite or go to place that has everything. So I use pretty much all of them, they all have products I use and cant get from the other. Good luck Frank