Frank

Welcome. This can be very rewarding but it is alot of hard work. To answer the question of bad choice no, it is a start and you will see as you order more that there is alot of good companys out there with great service. We all have opinions and they are just that. I dont really have a do it all place to buy all the things I need to make this work for me. I buy from pretty much all of them. Good luck Frank

Basstackle.com Bob Londe

Ck out the clasified section. There are some Fish trap mold there for sale by Patrick. Will look good with the jig head you are talking about. Not a bad price either. I got a few but they are in the mail and not here yet. Frank

Here is what I have so far. It is a PVC based paint. It does gel up if you dont use it fast enough. The bottle should seal tight as air is an ememy of this product. I have not figured out what the reducer is but acetone cuts it but. dries to fast. When dry it is like plastic and very flexible. Frank

I am finding that out. The ones that have it do it like breathing, its just done without a thought. My son uses Solid Works and uses all straight lines because his programmer does all the work without a cam program. He said he would quit if he had to do molds like that. Frank

So tell us hit man is it the program or the programmer that make the bait? I know one that use a less expensive software and one that uses Mastercam and there work is incredible. I cant tell them apart. Frank

I am guessing the shop has it. But I know you can Bob it is only money. Frank

Also look at the 702 and the bite me. All nice baits. Good action without input from the one fishing. Frank

I think you got it. Did you have any trouble getting the colors even? They look pretty even to me. Frank

The subject was on a multicavity mold. A single cavity will work by turning the block, even on a 90deg port mold. The multicavity mold has to be designed so it will seperate the top from the bottom. There are alot of fish molds out there that will laminate but they are designed like I said. Frank

Yes when you laminate you will have to adjust the colors to get the look you want. I have alot of colors that look good only when they are a laminate. Seperatly they are not so hot. The Twinjector in the beginning will need to be say loose. I know it sound funny but loosen the top bar a bit and the caps on the top. Try and avoid tightening it to much. This is just temporary as you use the unit it will smooth out. Aliminium has the tendancy to be sticky when used like that. You can use a couple of drops of worm oil for now but it goes away when you fill it for the first time. I have alot of miles on mine and dont know what I would do without it. Cant wait to see some pics. Frank

Not sure what mold is the closest to the OE senko but most that are available are real close. For injecting you will need an injector, I use Basstackle.coms because it has a tip that locks on and does not fall off unless you want it to. If you buy molds from differant companys most have a 5/8 port and are pretty much the same. Jacobs baits has a smaller hole but sells an adapter to use any that are available. Your stick mold is worth something but it is worth kepping too. Ck the classified section. Plastic has been gone over and you can search for LONG discusions on it. Your choice is just that Yours. All of the mold makers have great service and products so that has changed in the last 2 years as there is more makers out there. I did mention one and you may not know him but he and Bob work together so if you look for Bobs look to Basstakle.com. Others include Bears baits,Dels, Jacobs baits and Caney Creek is the newest one to help us out. Good Luck Frank

It will be split half and half with both colors in each fork. With worms at least there is no top and bottom like with swim baits. I am sure you will love the results. Just be smooth and everything will flow well. Good Luck. Frank

Good choice for a laminate system. You will be happy when you get it because it is easy to use. Not sure exactly what mold that is from Del but if the tail is split then the two colors will be too. Frank

Most of the molds will laminate just fine with more than one cavity. Unless it is a fish shape that is cut side to side. I have a video here on TU that shows a milty cavity mold being shot. What mold do you plan on using? Frank

I have a few colors and like them. They seam strong but really cant compare because the colors I have I dont in the other brands. The UV stuff makes lighter colors brighter. I just had an order of a few thousand baits and used it in some of the clear and white ones. It kept the color truer longer between heating cycles. Spitkeit have some real knowledge of this business and that is good for all of us. Frank

Here is the link to the one I made. I still use it for sticks and dont see any reason to get rid of my old molds. Frank http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21274-dont-get-rid-of-your-hand-pour-molds/page__p__158529__fromsearch__1#entry158529

Yes that is the new one.

The old color is more of an olive and really opaque. The new one is greener darker and more transperant. Smallie I asked Don from spike it about that, he said they were about $180 a pound wiht a 2 pound minimium for eack color. Frank

Didnt that thing come with a mold so you could make your own sticks.Basically pour the sticks then load them in the glue gun and put the dowel they supplied as a push rod. I have tried it but could not keep it from dripping. Not the LC one but one I had here at home. Frank

If you have details in the mold then yes you will loose it. Like scales and fins. It does make the paint come alive but when it is in the water it will do the same. I just dip up to the eyes and leave the details. I have been working on an eye mold today so I wont haved to dip. They will be made of the same plastic as the bait so it can be glued on and no dipping. You can clean out your airbrush with acetone right after. I fill the cup and use a small brush to loosen things upwhile I push the trigger down. It is a pvc compound so keep that in mind.Frank

Try this. Fill the twinjector all the way up and shoot. Unless you have a ton of molds I dont think you need to pre heat it. Make sure the twin is real smooth if not that might be the reason you are getting more of one color than the other. I have shot that mold and only get a little swirling around the insert but not bad. I am guessing the block is in line with the mold and the dark color is on the right side. Just a few thoughts on this. Frank

Two ways to do it. Use the twinjector and dip the rod. Or dip the rod and inject the pearl white then paint the back. I know you said you were not good yet with the airbrush but it is time to learn. The twinjector is way easier but you did not say you had one so you would have to buy one. Frank

Two things that can help out. One is keep your heated plastic on a griddle so it does not cool as fast. This will not keep it hot forever but you should get four or five shots before you have to reheat. Even then if you reheat the sprues and add them back in it will kick up the heat in the unused plastic. Two is try and put your mold on another piece of aluminium, it will pull the heat from the mold like a radiator. In time it will get hot too. Getting more mold is easy but figuring out a system that works for you is way harder. Hope this helps. Frank

Kevin at Basstackle.com has a good mind for detail things like your tail. He has a few designs out now with a thin tail but you would have to give him your number for the tail thickness. Real easy to work with too. Frank