Frank

OK I looked at his site and it seems he has changed his hand pour mold to the one you have. I have a hand pour with the cavitys from his injection mold. In the pics you can see the same corners you have. He does not have a fs7 in injection from what I can see. The one I have is a real close knock off of the original. Frank

I have the fs6 and it has no such edges. Not sure what to tell you.

I was doing it with four two cavity molds. The molds were getting hot so my table with the aluminium blocks worked out well to help cool the molds. Also as mentioned before you can still micro new oplastic and add it to the tank and keep going. It does not have to be heated in the press. A quart of plastic is alot to me. Frank

The new one is on his site. And the old video is there too. Go to you tube and search jacobs baits, its there. The new one is in a box to insulate it. Good looking work. I will give you a call Dale pm me your # I cant find it. Frank

You too Romeo, You are even closer than Dale. I talked to Rick today and he gave me some pointers. Heat settings and pressures. His new one is just about done with improvements. I know the hand mixer was one thing that I would not change my baits came out consistant and see no real reason for the added cost. We talked about the two color one too. But that is another thread at a later date. Frank

I dont think I will post a video, it is a prototype and the new one will be differant. I had a big order I worked on last night so I did not get to use it with salt. Should be able to today. Frank And Maddog you are close enough to just drive down and see it.

I will take one is that your paypal add? Thanks Frank

OK could not wait for saturday. I fired it up last night. It did take a long time to warm up, like an hour or so. This he told me up front so it was no surprise. The reason it is the prototype. But when it got up to temp I started to inject it was going just fine. I could just fill and demold and fill again and again and again. Now because it was my first time using this I did not use plastic that is easy to pour, I used a plastic that in my opinion was not injectable. It was way to thick and cooled to fast to get a good bait. This machine injected it with ease. I will say though the molds needed to be above room temp to fill all the way. I was injecting a bait with long thin legs and at first they did not fill. So I boosted up the pressure a little and perfect fill every time. With the sprues I put them in a cup and micro'd them and added back. I have to say though it was pretty wierd to keep going and demold again and again till no more plastic is there. One thing I will admit when I stopped and there was no more plastic the stuff left in the bottom did burn. I think it was because of the heat left in the unit. Next time I will leave some plastic in there so it will not do that. But for the first time it did work great. Today I will use salt and give another report. Over all it did work and with plastic that is so hard to use I though I was going to have to throw it away. The hand stirring was not an issue just a few spins once in a while and good to go. Frank

What do you use to stir it with? I know about the flames, in the plastic and since I changed back to my original supplier I have had no problem. The flames you saw, were they next to the cup at the bottom? The reason I ask is when I saw these in mine I stopped. It was making little chips in the bottom of my cup, and with chips on a tempered piece of glass it becomes unstable. Actually it is already unstable and anything will make it crack. The reason I asked what you stir with is if it were say a heavy sorta object like a butter knife that will contribute some to the cracking. When you cut glass you score it first then tap it with an oblect to crack it, same here but the score was the spark. Being tempered it wont just crack it will break in many pieces just like your windows in your car (not your windshield)or a table top. If you let it spark in the micro I think you are just asking for it. And also the sparks make burned plastic chunks that you wont see until you pour. Just my thoughts. Frank

I think he has been listening to people and with more bells and whistles comes a higher price. I just got mine today and will try it out on saterday. Alot of work went into this and the first thing I will say is that the smoothness of the handles and basic machine is pretty impressive. I got the one in the video but I hear the newest version will be much better. Will post my first pour trials soon. Frank

Welcome and remember stupid questions are the ones that are never asked. So ask away. Frank

Yes it will shoot a laminate just fine.

Blanx send it to me and I will take care of it for you. Frank

I have had that plastic do that to me before. It was because I did not stir it. If you did, then the main container was not. I still have a blob of it in a container, I add a little to each batch of watermelon so I will get rid of it. It is like jello right now. Hope you work it out.

How do you hold the two injectors and load them on the adapter. I am curious and have not heard anyone talk about that.With mine they both fill at the same time and I still use two hands to set it on the adapter. Boy you got the adapter fast. Frank

Lurecraft for the paint and the retarder is almost a must. It dries fast and the retarder gives you more time to spray. I clean up with acetone but to each his own. Not to many colors but you can make more if you get clear and add pearl powders to it. Use in well ventilated area. This stuff is real bad smelling. Frank

The iron came with several tips that one is used for rope cutting. It was only 20 bucks so it is not the best, but it works. Frank

Colors are a funny thing they vary so much you will just have to find out what your area likes. On the oxblood mine is more orange brown than red, and transperant. Green pumkin from LC is more opaque and greener than say Bears which is more transperant and a little more richer in green color. I think it is a personal thing. There is definatly no standard. Frank

SHK is right I use two pyrex type cups as a main cup. The thin beakers help keep the sprues melting as they just resting there. I am using a griddle and NOT a hot plate. This is like putting a pan on a hot plate and then the pyrex. The pyrex is not in direct contact with the heating element. People seam to think a hot plate and griddle are the same but my hot plate will get red hot and way above a safe temp for plastic, the griddle on the other hand will barely keep the plastic hot enough to use a few time before you have to reheat( only 30sec or so). The griddle also has high sides in case of a spill/break. The beakers do a good job but are a little thin even though I have not broken one. I am not saying it is ok to put pyrex on a heat source I am just showing how I do it. I put my pyrex in my oven in the house not sure why it is not ok to do it in the garage on a griddle. Think about it. Frank

I found it on Kevins site and dont think it will work for me either. Sorry Frank

Do you have a pic of the mold. I am not firmiliar with that one. What size ripper do you want?

I like that idea. I have Jacobs baits mold the does a grub like that but th skirts pull out a little to easy for me. But feathers hold pretty good.

My color was macthed to the actual bait and if it had white background it would be the same. You have to add salt to get that look also. Frank

The color is MF watermelon brown. Light on the color and it will look just like it. Here is a pic of the color.

ALL MOLDS SOLD THANK YOU