Frank

Not sure what you mean by flared maybe a pic. Frank

Lure craft sell one. I made one out of single edged razor blades. Here is how. Get about 7or8 blades. Take the covers off of them but dont throw them away(the covers I mean) Now slack the blades like this , Blade and a single wrapper, repeat till you have a stack. Then carefully pick them up and wrap the handles with masking tape very tight keeping all the blades even. That is it, just use it with something that has a little give on the bottom. Just remember you will have to press very hard to cut through all tha layers. One other thing you can adjust the space between the blades with more or less of the papers that cover them. Hope this is what you were after. Frank

Agreed the flake makes a big differance in the color. The color and flake are mixing in your eyes and giving you the illusion of a differant color. Actually it is a diffrant color. That being said it would be hard to fix without seeing both colors side by side. One makers GP is alot differant than anothers. Frank

Thin is what is giving the action. Without thin there is no action or less. If you want the same action then you will need to stay with a thin claw if you want a profile then anything that is close will work. Also the lip on the end of the claws makes a differance. I would stick with the Basstackle's action because it wont cost you a buck to make. Just my thoughts. Frank

I will take it pm me the paypal info and I will take care of you. Frank

If you look ar one of his original pics you can see where he put the wire in and see the hollow inside. I cant remamber his web site. Frank

I think it is some kind of poly vinyl cloride(PVC). but I am probably wrong. Frank

I have had some and used it a while ago. Straight it is very hard but with softener it was ok. Just the size that is available is to small. I think it is in gallons only on the site. Frank

I second that SHK it is pretty clear there was a wire. He has a post with a jacobs mold that he has done the same thing to. I think it was a paddle tail. Frank

There is no insert on his 1.75 twitchy. I think this was done by Spooman on bears site. Frank

I looks like he added a rod to the mold to dip in another color and install it then shoot it with another. You have to put a groove in the mold at the top of each cavity that fits a wire or rod. If you search this forum you will find a post that I put a pic of another mold that I did it to, it was a worm mold. Frank

Well let me first say that I do not have the flappin bug mold. But I do have his new winged lizard mold and he did change the transition from the main body to the wings. It now has more of a taper to it.And looking at the flappin but mold on the web site it seems to have the same taper from the main body to the wing. It does have some kind of rib thing going on through out the whole body. When I first injected the lizard I noticed that right away. I know when I talked to him a while back he said that the wing were that thin for the action it gives. That beibg said I dont think he will stray far from a good thing. Just my thoughts. Frank

Email Kevin at Basstackle, he probably would add one to his mold for you. If you dont ask one of them you may not get one. Frank

I am just a mold junkie and need to get new ones all the time. I dont buy enough of them to pour a bag at a time. In fact I usually just sell them by the piece. I need variety in my pouring and do so with differant molds out all the time. I will some times pour three colors at one time in three differant molds. It to me is the same as pouring three of the same. I think that molds are not what you think some times. I also get some request for some samples at time and am glad to help. But most of the time I just have one of them so it takes a while to pour. Just time doing what I like to do and making a little money doing it is not bad either. Frank

If you want the slim look of a minnow like that look at Basstackles bug eyed shad it has the skinny look to it. If you want more cavitys just let him know and he will make you what you want. He has quite a few that look like that. Frank

A large injector is nice if you have the molds to fill with it. My go to injector is the three oz one. I will use the six if I have alot of molds out. It is a matter of choice. Del has injectors also, you might look on his site I posted a pic of his injector. It has a threaded tip, nice unit also just takes more time to clean. Frank

Injectors for the most part do the same job and do it well. Basstackles and Jacobs have a pin in the tip that prevents them from coming off when you dont want them to. Look at Bass tackles site and go to the Twinjector and click on lager pics you will see the pin set up there. I just makes thing alot easier with less things to think about. Frank

Clear baits can be tricky at times. All of the above is good advice but in my opinion you heated it to much to fast. For clear baits I have had best results making small batches and keep the heat below 340. And try and not heat to many times cause it slowly yellows. Bear has a plastic that has a high tollerance for heat and stays clear longer. Cant remember with one but it puts out some very water clear baits. Frank

Thanks for that Smallie look like a great tip. Frank

I ve been doing this for close to a year and have had one cup crack. I was my fault because I was cooling heads that I dipped in plastic in water. A drop of water from my hand hit the side of the cup and it cracked it. It was more like it all cracked in big pieces. They also have pyrex for lab use which I use for the sprues and scraps for reheat. Maybe ask if those are better but they are thinner. If you have an issue with using pyrex then by all means go to the presto pot. There are alot of people that use them out there. I have one but dont use it, just my way. How much plastic do you pour at a time? Frank

I did have one of those pots at one time. Here is what I found. It does not hold much plastic about two cups for a safe level. The temp level is very up and down. I had a temp probe in it and when it got to 350 the heat would not turn on till it was down to like 310 and go up to 370. So does it burn plastic yes it will scorch it.The pour spout is small and with the temps up and down like that it will pour fast one time then slow the next. The presto pot is good but the whole set up is a bit more than the unit you are looking at. If you are using a micro and pyrex cups maybe try getting a griddle to keep the cups hot in between pours. I use this and never reheat the cup again. I do it like this set the griddle to 400 deg., heat up the plastic in the micro, set the cup on the griddle, shoot pour or do what ever you are doing and put it back on the griddle. Demold and take the sprues and scraps in a second cup. Remelt the second cup in the micro and pour it back into the first cup and pour again. Even if you get a presto pot you will need to reheat the sprues and scraps in the micro and pour it in the presto to keep from getting plastic buggers and plugging up things. Un less you have so many molds you dont have to stop pouring till you run out. With all the methods I still have to stir just to keep the temp even and the flake or salt suspended. Just my way. Frank

Well said and very true.Frank