Frank

All molds are sold.

I only have the three cavity twitchy left. Thanks to all who looked. Frank

Swims are sold. still have brush hogs and twitchy.

I have a few molds I dont use much so if you like to save a little money I would rather see these being used. 2 6" brush hog mold from Bass Tackle.com 42.00 each or both for 80.00 to your door. US only 1 Bears hollow swim with two extra inserts 75.00 to your door. US only 1 5" open pour Bass Tackle swim bait 80.00 to your door. US only 1 Bears 3 cavity 4 3/4 twithcy 90.00 to your door. US only Pay Pal Please Thanks for looking Frank

I will take 100 pm me your paypal info

I will take the sting ray if it is still available. Pm me your pay pal

This is my thinking on the subject. It really is not on the heat source it is on the pan. The heat source is under the griddle. Now all of my cups are going to break cause I know better now. Jim is right though it is just as hot when it is ready so the temp is not an issue. Frank

Nothing wrong with dinosaurs I have learned alot from the old school guys. I just twisted it a little. Frank

I am guessing you are talking about the tapered hole from a hand pour.I have had many of mine changed over( did it my self) and have had no issues. I can still hand pour or inject. It is worth it to me to have the option. Frank

I will time myself on the net order and let you know. Frank

Anytime the pleasure is mine. Frank

Well it is a kind of griddle. It has high sides so the cups dont slide off. If you position the cup right over the corner of the heating element it work real good. Recipe for green pumkin blue flash 35 drops of lc green pumkin,teaspoon of 35 black flake and a teaspoon of 15 blue flake in 1 1/2 cups of plastic. 3 drops of mf blue, 3 small scoops of blue high lite(scoop is a popsickle stick) and a teaspoon of 15 blue flake to 1 1/2 cups of plastic. Frank

I will take the 3.25 twitchy if you still have it. Send me your paypal info

I set my griddle at 400 and with all the heat loss it works out just right to keep on pouring. The sides get a build up as you draw the plastic out.I just pull that off and throw it in the small cups and remelt it and pour it back in the big cup. The temp is between 300 and 325 pretty much the hole time I am pouring. There is some stirring before you fill the injector just to get the salt or flake off the bottom and suspended.

I have never actually timed it I just get into a sequence that give enough time to demold without being real soft. I use the sprue to tell me if it has been long enough. On this mold at least I will tip it to the side and if the sprue is not running out it is ready. But I still put them on a piece of scrap aluminium to cool. The reason I mentioned the bear mold is that mold gave me enough time to fill both, clean out the adapter, then the injectors, then cut the sprue from the last shot and return them to the small containers in the pictures. At that point enough time has passed to demold and start again. I dont have any wait time in the middle of pouring. Kind of a one man band thing. If I had to answer a tine question I would guess maybe a minute. Frank

Off the top of my head I cant see why it wont. The two colors seem to work on any mold that does not have a top and bottom.

Here is a quick look at some two color milti cavity work. This mold is a new one from Bass tackle. I also shot a Bears lizard mold just to fill in the down time. The baits come out real consistant and not much waste in the end. There were some questions on doing this with a larger mold so I figured I would post up a few pics of how I do it. I started with two cups of each color and ended up with 3 oz of each color the would not fill the injector any more. One side of the mold the other side plastic on the griddle that keep it warm The finished work and the cups of plastic that is left. In the end I had five of the baits that did not meet my quality standards for laminates. Not bad for 96 baits. This just means I give them away. Hope this answers any questions that some of you have. Frank

Tap plastics has a thinner that is for there rtv. I have some and it works but I dont know how thin you want it to be. http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=61&

Look through the archives for a post called injecting video by me and you can see the twinjector in use. This was a while ago but it will give you the idea of what is going on. I have come a long way since then and have a few changes. As have alot of others. I was injecting a hand pour mold with two sprues. The new mold I have has four cavitys one sprue. I will post some pics this weekend of that mold in use. I am still using pyrex but now I put them on a griddle to keep them hot. I only micro the first time then I use a second contianer to remelt the sprues and slugs from the injector. If my son comes over I may do another video with the newest set up. Since my camera went into the canal trying to film a bait in the water.Frank

I can tell you about the Basstackle one. It is real consistant in the result category. The design tends to keep the equal pressure on both colors and filling is a breeze. You can fill both colors at the same time from two cups of hot plastic. The only trick is to keep the temp of both colors within 10 deg of each other. I use it almost everytime I shoot and when I buy a new mold I always think of how it will work with the twinjector. I have used it in miltiple and the sprue is not useless, I set them aside and when I get a chance I get them and cut them in half as good as I can and remelt with the others and add them back to the main cup. The only time this does not work is with light colors. You would be real surprised how much you really dont throw away. I shoot four cups at a sitting, two of each color and end up with less than three oz of plastic I do not use. And it is not junk I just cant get it in the twinjector again. Another trick is to fill the twinjector all the way up and then inject. I just bought his new hog with wings mold four cavitys and it shoots like a dream. If you look real close the tails are two colors. Pretty thin to be that consistant. I just got a bears lizard mold with split tails and one tail is one color and the other is the other color, now these are right next to each other.I know you are asking about miltiple cavity molds but it works on the single cavity 90 deg fill sprues also but in my opinion the results are better in the nose pour molds. Hope this answers your questions. Frank

Right here. http://www.basstackle.com/TWINJECTOR_p/twinjector.htm

You wont know unless you ask. It is worth a shot. Or you can just put it up in the clasifieds. Frank

Here is another one from Basstackle it is 5" but has a strait body. The body can be cut to be smaller.I use both of these and they both look great. The taper in the smaller one is not that noticable when the skirt is welded on.Frank http://www.basstackle.com/product_p/twintailgrubmold.%205%20inch.htm

Try a more coarse salt. The recipes I have dont work the same with fine salt. Seems to me that it should be the same but it is not at least for me. Frank

Dels is the closest you will get right now. I have the 5" one and the only thing is the back does not have ribs on the back. If you want some samples pm me your address and let me know what color you want and I will get you a few. Frank