Frank

I understand the heat lamp thing but is there two per station and what are you setting the pans on? Great idea just what I was looking for. I want something to keep thing hot so I dont have to stop.

I pm you my email. Nice work on those baits. Frank

I have tried those and the temp is so eratic it is hard to not burn the plastic especially white or clear. I put a temp gauge in it and when it got to 350 and tried to keep it there the temp fluxuated from 320 to 380. Hard to get a good pour when the temp is up and down like that. I do not have it anymore. My advise get more presto pots. Or get more micros and set it on med-lo to keep the plastic warm enough all the time. As for the hot plate thing I have one of those to and the temp is just like the lee pot up and down unless you have alot of plastic then you need to stir alot so the bottom does not burn. I want to try an electric griddle but have not had a chance to get one. Frank

For the type bait you are modeling after I would just buy an open pour mold from someone like lure craft and pour it then cut off the tails. They have many of that type bait molds. If you want to make your own,I just carve it out of wood and seal,prime and sand. then cast a one piece rtv mold out of it. I am trying to upload pics but it has an error. If you want pm me your email and I will send you the pics of what I do. It is not that hard and the results can be real pleasing. Frank

OK no one has said much about your dads airbrush. This airbrush does not have much control as far as fluid. It is pull the trigger and go. In order to get the results I think you want it will require a brush like the one you are looking at. Your dads air brush will be good for base colors and primers. But for detail you need to control of the needle so you can get the shading you want. Two things that are real differant in the two types of brushes. Your dads mixes the paint outside the brush by suction, the gx mixes internaly. On the gx you can start the air before you get paint,and slowly pull the needle back to get paint. Not possible on your dads. You can control the fluid on your dads with the screw in front. I have seen in the past a guy that used two hands on the brush do fades like you see here but the guy was really experianced. So dont get down on your self if you cant get the results you want from your dads gun, it is real hard to get used to this type of brush. You know one thing if you are going to get the brush like the gx if you go to ebay and look at the buy it now ones from hong kong sellers you can find one for about 30 bucks shipped. Now you wont know that they are the same but they are. I have same masters from tcp and bought two from ebay and they are the exact same but the name is differant. Once you get them in hand they are not plastic junk but they are not that bad. If you need parts you can get them from tcp but you can get a new one for less than the parts cost plus shipping. Not to confuse you farther just info on same more of the options. Have fun with this. Frank

Being in the auto refinish business for close to thirty years and really never found a need for mek but it is a part of laquer thinner. But so is many other products. Good to know. The plastic paint is a real differant type of paint though. Frank

Do you remember what it did when you mixed it? That is good to know though. Frank

I think you are on the right track with the brush and the paint. One thing about the paint is that it will come with colors that you probably would not think of . So by my adding you will be into it for about 190, Not bad. Until you get your brush and use it you will not have anything to compare it to till you get a second one, and a third and so on. I say but it and get started enough talking start painting. Frank

Went out side right now and tried den alchohol,acetone and laquer thinner. The acetone cut it best and right away. The laquer thinner did OK but there was something funny going on(a white milky haze) but did work to cut it. The den alcohol did not work at all it just geled up imediatly. I would use acetone. Frank

Maybe that is why he made his own. And boy he is proud of it too.

Well it is pretty hard to do without his but it can be done. His molds have a real small injection hole. When I first got one of his he did not have an injector and he was promoting using the one that janns sells. Now he has his own and it works alright. Frank

So I am not doing something wrong it is the solvent in the clear. Figures. I guess I will just go back to plastisol. I really like the plastic paint and surprised it is as advertized. In the future I will be trying some differant type things with that.

They have other product on there site with differant shore hardnesses. They are pre mixed so it makes it easier. The flex series.

I think the medium is a good choice. I will hold enough plastic to keep up the temp and not cool down to fast. I have two small ones that I use often but they dont hold much material. And your mold number does play a part to but if you cant keep the temp up id does not matter how much it will hold. One tip on the mold thing,If you are injecting molds with small detail do those first. If you do them last the temp of the plastic will to low and will be harder to get into the details. Hope this helps. Frank

Also make sure your plastic is real hot. I dont think slow is real good with such detail so move along at a pretty good pace.

Rather not say on the board but they were two sizes that were from to differant places. I looked tinight and they were both from a quality source. I have some green ones i will try it on those later this week. Thanks Frank

Yes I do believe I read that on there web site and they have there own dyes too.

All of them did. You can see the red missing from the corners of the pupil.Not a real good pic.

I tried this and it did work.But it did make the red eyes bleed onto the white bait. Seems like the solvent in the clear attacked the red.

I am not sure why this became a production post. My original intension was just to make a post on a laminate bait. Now that we are here and the subject swayed this way,I have to say that originaly when the post from bears injector was posted I thought it was the old one. Last night I watched it and was impressed with the speed that it can be done. Well done and very efficient .I especially liked the molds all layed out tike that. And as for speed if you only have molds from bears it is very fast to demold. So wing nuts are not good for production. Most of my molds have some kind of nut on them and if i was into production i guess it would not be very fast. A good lesson learned by reading every post and trying to understand the view of all. Last night I took off two of the three wing nuts on the adapter and boy it was faster. But I dont have a row of six molds three deep to shoot so all it did was give me more time to watch plastic cool down before I could demold. One thing I did learn from the other video is to keep everything hot real HOT if you dont want it to clog. But for me and what i do the speed is just not what I am after. I am sure if speed is what you are after then this unit may be a bit to much. And the tip modification was all mine cause the tips did fall into the cups more than i wanted so that is on me but dont see alot of production loss from something that simple and easy to use. Frank

Silver solder acid flux and a really hot soldering iron. The heat will only be on there for about 10sec so it will not burn tubing. And it will be real easy when you are set up and will be fast. Just my thoughts Frank

Well then you are half ways there just buy one more and try it out. I for one would like to know how you do with that unit. I know most people would not buy both but in time I will this way I will know for myself if one is better than the other but i wont post my findings cause there is no good that can come of it. I own injectors from the following companies,dels,bears,bass tackle,jacobs baits and even made one myself. So I can say something not from what I heard but from what I did or experianced. I will be waiting for your findings. Try this shoot a half a dozen baits and then lay them out and see how consistant they are cause you say production but you have to be consistant first. I did this on my first try and the pics are in the gallery. Frank