Frank

You are right if you do alot of the same ones it is easy to do a set up and run a bunch at one time. This was from when I was experimenting with forward cuts or backward cuts. The saw cuts pretty fast and you can watch it from both sides so when it aproches the center just slow down and make a perfect V. And with this saw you dont lose much material. Frank

I dont know what injector you got from del but now that you have one of his dont expect alot from any others on the market cause his is real good and the quality is very aparent. I have two now and the small two oz one does fit bears like a glove. I have one of bears also and the two oz dels is alot alike in size. I made a one oz one that is ok but the time spent is way to long. And dave If you are still reading this thread jacobs baits has a new injector on ebay to fit his molds. I guess there was alot of questions so he come up with one of his own. Kind of pricey though. Especially if you can get a del for under forty bucks with that kind of quality. But if you see it it has a foam insulator around it , seems like a good idea. I think it is great to see all the ideas that people come up with. Next is one from basstackle.

When I work with a wooden bait this is what I use simple and easy. Cut where you want as many times as you want.

It just seems hard when you start cause of all the differant rtv. Lets make it simple use a rtv that is 25 to 30 in shore hardness. It will work for your needs now. If you want a two piece mold use a 30. If you want to use the one piece mold method use a 25 ,this is more flexible and easier to get the piece out of the mold. I do not need to see through my one piece mold to cut them open cause I use two dowels for my pour spouts and index my cuts from there. I split it with a razor till i can get my master out. When i close it up again it goes back to an almost seamless split. As for degassing that is dependant on the time you have to work the rtv after it is mixed. If it is a short time degassing ia a waste of time, it is just to hard to pour when it starts to set up. And I do use a food saver to pull my vacumn. My best friend is pressure to the tune of 30 psi. Now I know you are thinking BIG BUCKS,no harbor freight has a pressure pot for paintingthat will work with a few plumbing fittings. If you cant get pressure do your self a favor and try this,Before you pour in the box put a coat of rtv on your master especially on the bottom. Them pour from a height so air cannot be transfered in your pour. The reason for this is that bubbles will rise from the bottom and get trapped under the bait and you will end up with bubbles on that side forever. With the coat of rtv the chances will deminish drasticly. I have so called wasted some rtv in my time and this advice comes from experiance. To make it even easier try tap plastics blue rtv it is easy to use and without any other choice it is easy to pick the right one. I use this one cause there is a store close. One thing i would watch out for is schringage, this not your friend. This comes from fillers and not good for what you are doing. As for quantity I have always bought it by weight not volume so I do not know what a gallon looks like. This goes for resins to, fillers are not good and if they say it is the some but cheaper it has some type of filler to make up the differance. Hope this does not make things worse. Frank

Before you go out and spend alot of money try putting the hood under what you are painting and see if it is better. Also put a filter to catch the particles of paint before they get to the motor. You can get some of this filter from tcp global. You should really have an explosion proof motor on it if the paint goes over the motor. Tcp has some small booths to get some ideas from also. Frank

I will take a crazcraw and a kodiak let me know how you want to get paid. Frank

I can help you out if you like I have a 5 1/4" 6 cavity mold for 66.00 shipped. Let me know. Frank

Got mine today thank you, Frank

Sorry I have to take it back I bought some molds instead. Thanks Frank

(Now I asked my young daughter and she pointed out about 15 differences but she runs machines and just learning programming too and shes under 10.) Does that mean that the best is yet to come Del. I know when I call now I will just ask for your 10 yr old daughter the programmer. Thanks for the insite.lol I think they are pushing people that wont push back. But if it is not a big deal and you end up with a better product then all is good.

You can use one shot striping enamel to add to your existing bait. Just clean it real good and make sure it is dry. It dries very slow so let it set and dry real good when you do it . It sticks better than anything else I can think of. I use it to add red after I am done. Hope this helps. Oh and you can get it at tcp global. Frank

tried to email without sucess get in touch with me and I will take it. fcrod2@yahoo.com

PM me your info and I will take it

If yu really want to know how they weight it cut it up and look. After a few differant bait with differant actions you will get a good idea. Ive been known to cut some pretty high end ones. Sounds crazy but it helps the learning curve. Frank

I use rubber bands to secure the mold. But I made one piece molds.

Here is what I found out about casting baits that were first made of wood. They do not act the same at all and you have to find a way to get the bouyuncy back that you lost with the resin and then weight with lead to get close to the same results. This is some trial and error. If you used the resin straight then it is close to the density of water and you might need to add some micro balloons to help it float better. Now I do not have any idea what you want out of the bait(float sink suspend) but the plain resin is in my opinion not going to work alone. Keep good records of how much you add so when you get the desired results ,you can duplicate it again. Hope this helps Frank

At the beginning of this post boy did I feel like the odd man out admitting that I use an injector on a hand pour mold. Now that I look around for a smaller injector what do I see, An injector that is designed for a hand pour mold on Dels site. Now I did not ask for it so there must be some kind of demand from closet injector guys. Just made me feel a little better but I did have a reason to do it that way. I do not have one but it does say that the nozzle fits his hand pour molds and that means it is smaller than the other ones out there.

I was looking around on alumilites site and saw some good comparisons on hardness. I was looking at the flex series and it gave good referances to ordinary objects. Like 60d hardness is like a shoe sole. I guess i have been using in the 70 range which is more like a car tire. Alot of info over there.

Well if he is, he has another new mold out there. I saw it on ebay.

That is what I tried and it looked good but where the clear stoped it left kind of an edge. And the small nose on the tip. Thank You Frank

How do you clear over eyes on a plastic bait?

As for the taper pic the hole in the jacobs is even smaller than the hole in my injector(bear or dels) so I have to taper both. The anwser to Ghost post seems to be pretty simple never though of that. And yes I DO NOT want to drill my molds. See another guy that injects a hand pour. Some times it is just easier or more consistant.

I will Weigh next time and see what I get.Good read and I dont think that what you do is a bad thing you just want to be consistant.Frank

I will take the swim bait and the swim minnow. Send me your add in a pm Thanks Frank

Thanks for that . The thought had crossed my mind but I figured a taper would be easier. Like a cone/counter sink type thing. If he is selling used molds they are well taken care of. If you want one of his molds he has them up for bid alot and almost never gets the buy it now price.