Frank

That is what I mean that port is not even close but some sort of standard would be nice. I am going to taper mine to get some sort of fit. I asked if he makes his molds and replyed that he did. Dont know why he only sells on ebay though. I wonder where he gets his injectors from? It is kinda hard to make a differant nozzle for every mold.

Good idea never thought of recoloring pre made tails.

I agree mags but like I stated earlier a good sealer does the same just no filler like primer. On metal parts it is a must to use some type of etch to get a bit on the metal. Go to an auto paint store and ask for dupont a4115. This product has some sort of chemical to bite the metal. The sealer I mentioned ealier is dupont a4220 it is just darker than white and like I said before it sprays like a dream. Once you try these you will love the ease of use. There are so many other variables to the need for primer, one example is if you are doing repaints it is realy not necesarry to prime but if you do some of the sanding rings from chips can be leveled out.

sent you a pm let me know if you did not get it.

Mark I know that it is real conveniant to buy the tails but do the color choices ever dictate the colors that you have to use?

If you are doing that the chances of it getting through is pretty unlikely but it could if the primer is not fully covered. The strange thing about water based products is that they are pretty solvent proof. I would try it on one bait and see what happens. Next time I would not prime with that. Only because of the top coat.

I believe the primers are enamel based and to much solvent will wrinkle it. As for an easy way to remove the primer try some laquer thinner on a rag and wipe fast it should come right off. Why do you think you have to remove it again? Is the dn going over the top of the primer or is it going over the paint?

If you are having a problem with the krylon see if you have an automotive paint store in your area and get a sealer in a spray can. They probably have a few to choose from. It is a good idea to have a uniform base to paint over but it is not a must. The ones I use to use are from Dupont, they were acrylic based and sprayed like a dream. They dried fast also. One note on the differance between a sealer or primer is that primers usually contain same type of filler. Hope you find a good solution to this problem.

I use Alumilite white resin. You do have to add MBS to get it to float but it is a good resin and the customer service is great. When you have a question give them a call and you get to talk to a person that has actually used the resin and will stop at nothing to make thing right for you. I do get bubbles but if you get a system down you can minimize them to a managable amount. The prices you will find are all over the board and the only reason that I have consistantly get is that some co use fillersto cut the resin and some dont. I was in contact with a gentleman that casts box cars and tried a less expensive resin. He said it cast well but over time it actually distorted. Now that may not be a problem with baits but the cost per bait is not much more so I choose to use what I believe is a high quality product just like the baits I make. I am sure this thread will last a while longer so more later. Frank

Yes I have a mold like the one you ordered but the inlet is very small but it injects well with dels or bears injector. I just set the nozzle on top and it seals so so .And search a little more and you will find even more great molds from smaller co. just like him. It would be nice to have a standard nozzle but that is a dream that will never come true. That said I guess that we will just have to modify what we have and go from there. Artificial, I do agree that the safety is not good and I dont agree with the way I am doing this. I have a mold that is custom made hand pour,and it does not pour well but it does inject way better. It has a narrow spot near the tail so pouring is almost impossible. That is the reason that I tried it . Like I said I am still new at this so I am still learning. Once I feel a little pressure I stop pressing so spraying hot plastic has not happened to me yet.

I am still pretty new to this but I do have injectors from bears and dels. And have molds from bears dels basstackle bobs jacobs and some custom made ones. To be honest I have injected all of them with both injectors and dont see a real problem. I have injected hand pour molds that came out just fine. Now in a hand pour some times you can not get through all the cavitys in one shot but you just reload. Now if I am missing something about what is the differance other than in an injection mold all the cavitys are one, Please enlighten me.On mold that the nozzle wont goe into I just rest it on top and press, it seems to me at least i get less mess when I do it on these molds than on the injection ones. As for the comment on customer service that DOES play a big part for me and the service from bears bobs and basstackle is second to none. That said I hope that you can be asured that you can mix and match to suite your needs without buying a bunch of injectors. All of you guys with more experiance please let me know if I am wrong on this as I do not really have any old molds that might not work. And is a nozzles fit really that important if you push till you feel resistance and stop?

Ya I am with you on that one. An old bead blasting cabinet with the gloves on the front to reach through. It has air plumed in and a fan but it needs to be changed to a sealed type unit designed for flammable materials. Then make a side door that leads to a box to hang dry the ones that are drying .All do able if you can find an old bead blast cabinet. They have a window on top that could be covered with a tear off material so you get a fresh view every time you shoot. A small filter on the exhaust side to trap the solids and you are in business. Great thought. Frank

Safely NO but most people think it wont hurt. Think about it it can be absorbed through skin. If that is not a deturant then I dont have another arguement. Second thought to the people that dont use one at all, this is a product that is also moisture cured. When you breath in the particals they will actually cure in your lungs sounds great right. If you must and I dont advise it but get a full face respirator so at least you eyes are covered and cover all your skin you can with chemical proof wear. It is a good product to use but the safety comcerns far out weigh the good at least to me. Frank

Thanks KF one reason that PPG did not fit in our production dont need the window. Kris now that you have a respirator the p100 rating is only good if the mask seals real good to your face so facial hair must be kept to a minium so the seal is as good as it can be. Glad to see personal safety is in your mind alot of people dont give it a second thought.

Not to highjack the thread but what base coat has a cat in it KF. I dont ever remember seeing one. All water here now so not a big deal now. The clear is the same though and protection is at its highest at our shop. Clear here is like syrup and reducing is at a minium. Good to see same imput that makes good sence also.

Start trouble I dont think so, it is good to discuss things sometimes just to make you think about it totally. And not all auto paints have isocyanates in them just the two part products like the clear coats not the base coats. And you are right the only way to protect yourself from them is a fresh air system and to completely cover yourself with a chemical suit gloves shoe covers and a sock on your head because they can be absorbed thruogh your skin or eyes. Auto paints are in a transition to change to water based/bourne so this will hopefully soon be a topic of the past. Kris if it is rated for organic IT WILL say on the CARTRIDGE. Not all dual cartrige respirators are for organic solvents. So read very carefully but it should pretty clear.

OK here is my thoughts on this one. You used an enamel paint that has oil and solvent with a water based paint and no solvent. Without the solvent it will not stick. To try something maybe put the same type of clear over the chrome and let dry then sand(scuff) the clear and put the red on. Mixing paint lines never works for me cause I know better.

I know if you asked about a mask it means you care about your health and that is good. A really good hepa filter type is the 3m #07181 it has the best rating(p100) you can have without going to a fresh air system. Buy the right size and it is actually very comfortable for long periods of use. One note on the rating of the masks the number following the letter is the percent of effective coverage. 100 is good 95 is more common double straps go with a higher number historically. With the solvent type paint use a mask like I posted earlier one with organic cartriges. Most have a pre filter that is a seperate piece on the outside. Now one important note on these is once you open the package the life span of the cartridges is started so keep it in a bag to keep it out of the air. Most of these come with one to keep it in so dont throw it away. And masks rated for other type of chemicals might not be a good choice. Do alot of research and make the right choice and remember we are just people on the internet trying to help. All paints are NOT the same. Hope this helps you. Frank

You can call these guys and they will laed you in the right direction. http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/sasresp.aspx

Well said Clamboni and Stringjam. I was also one who has used those products but new regulations changed that. So water is all I got. I am glad that you said that you have not tried it thus you are only offering advise on the products that you have used. Auto Air is not sprayed the same but when you learn how to use it the effects are the same. To all of you reading this take the time to look at the two product and compare the colors and special effects they are almost identical. Frank

How can I see this the site is only a photo bucket ads? Any help will be greatly appreciated and the pages seem to be expired

Ive been watching this post and no one even mentioned a skuff pad which give the best tooth for any type of paint. If they have seams then yes you will need to sand then scuff the rest and you will be fine. A piece of sand paper will only sand the tops but the scuff pad will roll into the small inperfections of any surface. So if you have some detail like scales or gills it will not remove that. The bulldog stuff was made for painting plastics that have an adhesion problems. The baits that we paint are not in that type of category. There cleaners are more like soap , really mild solvents and sometimes grit that will gently clean. Frank

This is a smaller unit like I have but as you can see it is a bit much. http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=DEV+HAR-602 And in responce to the solvent portion yes personal protection is up to you but at work even our new neighbors noticed that the level of toxic air is way down. The solvent we use to use had a value of 5.4lbs per gallon of volital organic compound (VOC),bad for the enviroment bad for you and your neighbors. The new water based is 3.4 lbs voc good BUT the Auto air is 0.01 lbs voc real good. Now at home if you want to spray solvent type all you have to do is build a spray booth put a fan that is explosion proof ,wear a solvent proof suit with hood and gloves, and then a mask that is rated for solvent type products and store it in a bag so it will not be exposed to air and be worthless after 40hrs exposure. Just to paint a few baits. And I am knocking it cause I will probably die early because when I started in a body shop all this was not a requirement. So yes I do take a stand on this because the Auto Air is a great product and will do the same job and is not nearly as bad for you. That is my 2cnts. I am not blowing smoke and dont work for Auto Air. GO Green And I said this before and no one said a thing Where does the Auto Air site say that it needs to be heat set, I says that it needs to be DRY and heat helps. The heat set thing speeds up the flash time but if it is warm out it is not needed. Frank

I do not use a top coat that you dip but I am guessing that the coat is thick and there lies the differance. I would bet if you sprayed it on the problem would not be near as bad. i know that spraying is a big pain but it may be the only wat to achieve the look that you are after. Strang thing that happens to water based paint you think it will all work with each other then this. As for the baits that you have already I would try to sand lightly (1000 grit) and recoat(spray). There is not a bad finish out there it is how we use it ( or abuse it) Hope this helps. Frank

What is the paint under the top coat. And what reducers did you use. Looks like a non compatiblaty reaction. Try dipping a bait without the base coat on it and see what happens.