Frank

CK this type of unit out we have one in our shop that is called a smoke eater but this unit is for wood/dust. Buy Jet Air Filtration System, Model AFS-2000 at Woodcraft.com

If you would like I will teach you if you would like to drive 2 hrs south on I5.My name is Frank and I have been building rods for about 12yrs. I actually repiar rods for a shop in so san jose and teach rod building at least once a year in the winter time. Any ways let me know and we can set up a time. Most of the time you will actually be able to finish in one long day. My tri tip sandwiches are pretty good also. I live in Los Banos CA

I work 4 days a week and drive through there as many days so I cant smell it from home but I do smell it often. Cotton and corn where I live.

Well if you are ever in the area and want to stop by just let me know and you can try out some of the auto air or solvent based. Im in the central valley east of Gilroy. Good luck with your choice.

In defense of the body guy I think he was trying to help. :twocents:Just like most of us. I think KF is right the needle is bent and ill bet that the air passage on the air cap has more of a gap on one side than the other this is the whistle. There is no air passing through the needle/fluid passage when all is working right the air comes from around the nozzle and actually sucks out the paint to make the spray pattern. When the needle does not seal right you get sort of a hose vortex action from one sideof the needle rather than an fine mist of paint from around the needle.If it is bad enough the atomized drops actually stick together and produce drops/spatter like you are getting. As far as being in the red you are using some colors have differant viscositys and require some thinning. In a body shop this happens some times and you can straighten the needle out to work well but the margin for error much larger that with an air brush. I wouldn't have tried it.Then again im on the computer trying to help you fix some thing that I have not seen. Buy a new one and call it a good lesson.

Use a skuff pad to get in all the details as well as the entire bait. These are available from an automotive paint store. 3M makes a gray green colored one that is exellant for this aplication. These pads put very fine scracthes in the surface and will get in all the details. If you can get a product called sand fix from the same place it is grit in a paste form that you can use with the scuff pad wet. Dip the pad in water squeeze a little sand fix and then rub on the entire bait. Rinse well and you will be ready to paint. Bulldog will work well only if the surface is prepared right. There are other colors of pad that will be available like red gold white but the gray green is the best for this.

Well it is not going to clean itself out.You will need to clean it with some qtips pipe cleaners or something that will not damage the inside of the brush. Take the air cap of and clean out all the air passages. This is not where the problem lyes though. The main clog is on the inside of the fluid passage. Remove the neddle and the cone on the front of the brush. This is where the clog usually is. Clean out the entire passage. On gravity feed brushes the build up will be on the bottom of the passage. Youshould be able to reassemble and use right away. One tip on gravity guns or brushes when you are done using it claen well them store them upside down. Believe it or not there is a small amount of paint in the gun/brush that actually builds up in time that will eventually clog up the passage. Thus choking up the fluid passage that can cause the bubbles in the cup. Also sometimes it will blow chunks of dry paint That is a pain. All of my painters at work use this method and swear by it now.

In my area water is the only thing that will be available as of oct 1st. Like we have a choice. Could get solvent based but not worth the hassle.

OK just got off the phone with tcp they said that the auto air has uv inhibiters in them for tha auto industry so there is the differance. The createx is for hobby type thing that do not go in the sun often.

I dont see alot of differances in the products. I mix them and spray one over the other. The createxsite I was looking at does not say it is for plastic but that does not mean it wont work. Hey what happened to the body shop with the free paint?

Well I think auto air and createx are in the same family litteraly. Auto air seems to have more custom colors but I could be wrong. Ck the tcp global web site they have both brands there then compare for yourself.

Looking around and saw this thread. Hope this helps. Amato publishing has a book called Cane Rods Tips& Tapers. This book has some tapers for casting and spinning. Not much info on lure wt but you could try then use Rod DNA to fix to your needs. Alot of work but the end result is well worth all the time. As for not fishing like a new rod I'm glad it doesn't because it is not.

Ya 500 sounds like alot but the number of potential customers is probably 5000% higher. I make swim baits also and the smaller 456" ones get the most interest. Maybe if there is some explanation for the reason that the bass in so cal are the only ones that eat baits that big. I live in cen cal near the delta and get some interest but not as much as I would like.

you never know System Three Is a marine epoxy co. Flex Coat is pretty big too. Just do a search and you might find.

There Are Three That Come to mind right away. System Three has one called Clear Coat. Flex Coat has there rod finish. Thread Master rod finish has one that nonly needs to be turned for about an hour at 70 degs. The working time is a good twenty minutes on all of them. After you apply these you can heat them up with a flame to remove bubbles and level some what. They almost always need at least two coats. Nice finish by all of them though. All of them have uv control in them. Hope This Helps.

My gas guy mentioned one time that he had a gas that would work like that. I forget which one though but it was one that is common to them . I believe it is a gas that is heavier than air so it displaces the air from the product you are trying to protect. Not that buying a tank and refill is any cheaper but if you have one it might be.

Alright the statement on the urethane being differant is very true,you have to work your way up to the finish you want. If im wrong let me know on that point because Ive only used two part urethanes. I will get some dicks finish and try out some but I believe it will be like another product that I have, well see. You know that what is good for some as far as look of the finish is not for others. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Epoxy is almost instant gratification as far as finishes go, with the mil build up by two coats it is almost to much. On a little differant note has there ever been a get together somewhere to maybe have some live demos and maybe some food and fishing? I know that seeing is worth way more than a thousand words.Just a thought. Even though it might be small at first maybe some good video would came out of it. Oh and for rofish that is exactly what this post is about cause I did not see your post in the thread you pointed out but thank you for your responce that is very interesting with one product protecting the other ones short falls.

Auto clear coats are a good choice for this application. As long as you are talking about two part clears. These clears have all the uv ,non yellowing ,flow qualitys that most are looking for. I dont know how you plan on applying this product but do yourself a favor and follow the mix ratios as close as you can. This is very important as to the quality of the finished product. Be carefull and use the correct safety equipment. Being in that type of job that is probably what you do every day right. As far as asking your rep for a product that is a good idea and that is good for all to a least ask if there is a product that you might like. I really believe that the only real stupid question is the one that is never asked.

With that being said you are rihgt in saying that there are some trade offs. But as for flex coat it was the norm that it took 4hrs of turning to let it set up . Then come along Thread Master that only turns for about an hour. Ive used flex coat for 10 plus years but now changed to thread master just because of the turning time. This guy asked the right person to get that product. These products are out there just have to find them. I will not give up asking the question and will never give into that this is as good as it gets.There is always new ways to be had.

OK Let me fill you in on bondo. That is a trade name for the dynatron corp. The product is a polyester resin with a talc for filler and a kind of grey color. Now that is out of the way let me explain what you see on some sights as for the pictures. I will call these products bondo for the time being. Bondo has a hardener that has a color so you know when it is mixed well. It comes in two basic colors red&blue. Thus the pink you have seen. The ratio is about 100 to 1 bondo to hardener. It is basically used for auto body purposes to fill and level body panels. It should be available at a automotive paint store. Now the advanced version. Now i will call these products fillers but they are the same basic products except for the resin is mixed with microspheres. This makes it lighter and easy to sand, not that this matters. These products cost more but the end product is smoother in apperrance. Now these products are some times yellw in color because of chemicals that help them stick to metal better. Not an issue in this case but for some reason the hardener is blue in most cases thus you get a green finish color.Still no problem. Now with these they sell a thinner that is nothing more than a polyester resin that you can add to the filler to make it runnier/smoother. When you use these together you can make some pretty intricut molds. The cost here in US is about $60 for 8lbs, about a gallon.The thinner is about $16 a pint. You can make your own filler with polyester resin and micsospheres but you have to stir for days it seems like. Hope this helps the confusion on bondo/filler. Buy the way it sets up in about five minutes and can be used when it cools down,about 20 min.If you make a two piece mold you will need to use mold release agent or you will have a mess.

Ya the container for dipping is maybe difficult but it is a necessary evil. As for as musky lures go just how large are the lures you build? Yes I know that cost is a factor but frustration must count for some thing. Being in the refinish business for almost 30 yrs I try to keep it as simple as possible. I am going to ask around to some people for some options. There are so many options out there that if you talk to the right person you would be surprised what you can find out. The key is to find a fisherman in the companys and new doors open. This is not hard to do if you are in that business. Hope this thread keeps up steam. Thank you for all the input.

Well that was a good read but I want to know what you think is a good finish,Rofish. I have come to reason that one finish is not going to cure all. But to have the knowledge of what people would like to use is the purpose of the topic. Already ther is some talk on dipping and on brushing not that one is better than the other but people are differant in what they are comfortable with.

Bob now that was what I was after, all good info. Thank you Snoopa Bobs right that dipping part is a problem. Unless you have pockets that are deep , but then you would just buy the baits done. We all are just doing this to save money right? Anybody else? Come on it is a topic of much discussion here.

Lets lust say that you had access to a company that could make you the perfect two part epoxy or urethane finish. What would be the perfect finish to you. Please explain all the thing that are important to you. Just wondering if there were a finish that was made for this purpose what would be the best qualities to include.

Yes that will work just go with lite coats to get that effect. Just to let you know transparent colors need a base color under them to reflect light (color). The candy colors are the same. You might want to practice on something else until you feel comfortable.