Frank

Give Spikeit a call and ask if they still make one called stinkum. I think that’s the name. It is the closest to power bait I have seen(smelled).

I am guessing he uses it because Spikeit make plastic for the bait making industry. They can adjust formulas for situations we have. Other company’s make plastic for many industry’s and we are not top of there list. Using suspendasol tells you that is probably the case. No one else even offers such a thing.

Yes the harder one settle faster than soft. I believe it I the amount of pvc material added that makes it settle faster.

Basstackle has this one. It is smaller but swims good. Unless you had a different tail design in mind.

Lureworks has great colors and are very consistent. They make there own from the raw materials so colors don’t change unless the paste pigment does. But that is not very common with them. They supply a lot of big company’s so if the color changes they get pretty upset.

From what I understand one of the products in plastisol can be dry and can settle. The coarser the dry product the worst it settles. The end product is the same just needs attention before use. All plastics have some type of settlement. Get into a habit of making sure you get all of it mixed well before use and thing will get way more predictable.

Get a nice screw on lids and just mix just before you use it every time. Keeps everything real consistent all the time.

I think a 20 like yours and a 6qt with heated side spout.

They work great for that. You will be fine. What size is yours? I just might get rid of them.

What is it you are wanting to do with these pots? I have two but rarely use them. Bought them to hold plastic at temp but they take a lot of room on the bench.

If you have a formula you don’t have to search anything. Here is a good one. Pro blue 4 cup formula top color 10 drops Mf black 1 smidge Mf blue pearl 1 dash 15 black flake 1 dash 15 blue flake bottom 1 tad white pearl 1 tsp red hilite 4 drops white add more white if needed mine is very strong

Lurecraft olive pearl. If you need it a little darker use Mf watermelon Brown.

Ya never had good luck with doing that. They are two different products. Can’t say why the Kalins works, they much have a different formula for plastic. One way I did it before was to put a screw lock in the hard bait then glue and twist it on. This was when I was pouring my own tails and using Mf plastic. Many years ago now.

Are you glueing soft plastic to soft plastic or is it a hard bait with a soft tail?

Yes they are and if you want to match that color get the mf ones. Makes it a lot easier. Mainly because you are wanting to match pearls with colors and they are not the same. If they were no one would need pearls.

Another way of getting the two lower colors is Mf pearl powders. For the purple use 912vb powder. For the blue use 908bb. This will get you what you want with ease. When trying to match robo colors with veins I use these two all the time.

Oh ok when you were asking about different colors of Uv I though of glow powder. I have never seen different color UV.

No the UV stuff is an amber color that can’t be seen unless you add to much. In clear plastic it will take a blue/violet hue and if added to black it looks more of a violet type color. Are you sure you mean UV cause from the pic it looks like glow powder. UV for the most part can only be seen with a black light. Please clarify so you don’t order the wrong stuff.

Spikeit has a liquid one. Buy in bulk and save a bunch.

Bass tackle has a 12and 17. Neither one is flat belly but size is there

I have a bunch or there top inject molds and some are different than others. For the ringed ones I use the Twinjector all the time even if it is one color. And it will bubble towards the top when the plastic is to hot. Cool your plastic to about 300-310 and inject slow when you feel it stop give it a bit of a quick push and remove the injector. Now here is something that I have found is when shooting a cold mold it will have a tendency to pull the Sprue out and let air in. Air will be in the tip or nose of the bait. On others molds like the shad body’s I shoot hotter with the same push at the end to force out air trapped toward the top of the mold. Hopefully this will help if not repost what mold you are talking about and I will see if I have any tricks on those.

I tested both once and found that they were very close to the same temp. Using the probe to stir and the ir gun to read temp at the same time. Ended up within a few degrees. I have something much better to stir with than a thin probe so I ended up using the ir gun all the time. But either way it is very important to know what the temp is. When you have problems most of the time you could ask and if someone asks what temp you can tell them. As for the quality question try the less expensive one not a big loss if it is not so good. And Walmart would probably return it after even months of use.

I got this from Jacobs baits many years ago and don’t use it. If you think it will work let me know and I will send it to you.

If you use a small round object to stir it will introduce less bubbles. Flat ones create a vortex and can introduce more bubbles. But if it is not hot enough and still thick anything will make bubbles. Smell is a personal thing. I think the one I use has less of an offensive smell. But then that is just me. Kind of a personal thing.

I have been using a mixer for awhile now. But hand works good too. Did it that way for a long time. Just had some one ask how long I have had my pots, it been about 8 years and no issues. So that way is hard to beat. Heated injector stand is great too but the guy no longer sells it. Have to pull that video off.