Long Lake Lures

Brian, I usually make the cost up in the price of the baits to the customer. Dave

Speaking of Renegade/Luck-e-Strike worms that Walmart sells, does anyone know what scent they use in those 6" curltail worms? I use these as trailers on Chatterbaits and the Pike lov'em. Trying to figure out how much the scent accounts for getting the strikes. Thanks, Dave

Mustang, LC molds 658 and 387 have very fine cavities at the tips of those tails and can be challenging to pour. I am forewarning you so that you do not get discouraged. Hope this helps, Dave

Just a thought- you could try to extract the organic components by adding some oil to the aqueous solution and shaking, then separate after allowing the layers to settle. I have never tried it but you never know. Good luck! Dave

I generally add 2 T of salt per 4 oz of plastic for my sticks because I like a slower descent. Ditto everything that Richard said. Dave

Try columbia coatings textured powder paint. Dave

I use silicone spray that I bought at a dollar store as a release agent for DWP. After making the bottom section and it cures a while, I leave the master in and spray with the silicone. Don't pour the second layer too soon or else you will get bubbles and diminished detail due to the liquid carrier from the silicone- Let the silicone soak in. Hope this helps, Dave

FYI when using LC fluorescent liquid coloring, you need to add it to cold plastic, otherwise it will clot and ruin the batch. Hope this helps, Dave

I bought some of the medium strength green plastic from LC and have begun experimenting with it. I seems to take a while longer to heat, doesnt smell the same, and the baits feel "drier" or perhaps "less oily" to me than the phthalate based plastic. Pourability seems to be the same and it seems to set up faster than 502 as I am demolding sooner than what I am used to. I have some baits out to my tourney buddies and I will let you know if they have any feedback on durability. Dave

I agree with the guys who have responded so far- too much paint on the jighead. I had the same problem when I started and even now,using a fluid bed, it has happened from time to time, so I built a little clamp out of angles and small C-clamps that hold the jigheads upright when in the oven. This way, any XS runs down to the shank where it can either be cut off or left on, since you won't see it. when the skirt is on. Hope this helps, Dave

I use alot of LC supplies. All are 1st quality, and you can't beat the service and knowledge that Kim and Shawn provide. I highly recommend them. If you ever get a chance, visit them in Lagrange, Ind. Seeing the molds/masters in person is a must, because the catalog doesn't do them justice-but be forewarned. You will spend more than anticipated! Dave

I use a well worn leather glove which provides the dexterity that I am comfortable with to hold hot pyrex cups. Dave

What are you looking for? Colors, sizes, etc.

For swimbaits, go with a softer plastic. Dave

The first one looks like a light LC's spiced rum with white Pearl powder. Hope this helps. Dave

JD, The 901 is not on the website yet. I went there a couple of weeks ago to pick up supplies and as I was looking over the molds they were sitting there on the shelf. As I recall they are about $15/ea. I tried making a 2 part mold out of DWP and didn't like the result. I am contemplating making a silicone mold and thought that the 901 would be a good starting point. Best wishes, Dave

Lurecraft has come out with their #901. Pour from the tail first and use fine salt. Give Kim at LC a call for more details. Hope this helps, Dave

I actually use quart bottles for ease of handling (I pour 4 oz at a time, a couple hrs a night), but am considering a dispenser if I can setup a decent mixer for the bucket. With the majority of the baits that I pour being sticks and swimbaits, I am considering going to the softer 536 plastic next time since I find myself adding softener all the time with the 502.

Foo G, Could you please clarify what you are looking for? Dave

UPDATE: Stamina has increased their price on the chatterbait blades from $16 per hundred to $18. Still cheaper than other places, though. Dave

Jigmeister, Thanks for your help. I am trying to copy the design of some of the football jigs where there is a flat surface cast into the jig head so that the trailer will stand up when the jig rests on the flat. I didn't see any signs of the silicone degrading after six pours, but the voids persisted. I am thinking that the silicone is acting as an insulator, creating a cool spot which solidifies the lead prematurely. I am working in an unheated detached garage, so the ambient temperature is COLD:eek:. I was hoping that someone else has already gone down this path and can provide direction. Also, does hi temp silicone and JB hold up to the temperature over time? Thanks, Dave

I called today to check on an order and I asked about the free shipping. I was told(by a very pleasent lady whose name escapes me) that they will only ship for free for large orders now. Oh well- I guess that they didn't know how much that swayed my purchasing decision. Hope this helps. Dave

I came across this old thread while researching a problem that I have encountered. I am trying to modify a Do-it mold so that i can make flats on a jig head. I applied high temp silicone to the mold and let it cure for a couple of days. I pre-heated the mold on the pot prior to pouring and poured 6 heads. Each time, there were voids where the silicone created the flat. I was hoping that the voids would decrease with every pour, but they appear fairly consistent. Has anyone experienced this and have you found a solution? Thanks, Dave

Zib, What size wire are you planning to use? I had to buy an adapter kit for the Hagens for anything over 0.041. Hope this helps, Dave

I noticed that thicker DWP molds tend to create large bubbles in baits, even after baking at 300 for an hour and coating with Elmer's. I decided that this was due to moisture boiling off, so I bake them longer now. This appears to have fixed my problem. I use LC plastic in a microwave, shake it like crazy before heating, and do not see the bubbling problem when I use Aluminum or RTV molds. I haven't tried the oven or pot method yet, but look forward to building a presto pot this spring, using all the great info from you guys on this forum. Thanks, Dave